Frankensteins Official Thread

Rusty Accord

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It has to be because I swear I put the permatex on with a spoon and I did replace the seal but i'm going to rip the trans off and see what I can find. I may just use a new seal just to be safe. Its a good sized leak. About 2 inches in in diameter after about 30 seconds of running so I really need to see whats going on. the seal itself cant be leaking so my guess is the housing. Also, that wire would have been ended if that was my chevy lol. I would have cut it to 100 pieces for causing me grief lol.

It was for the oil pressure sending unit (to the gauge). Like I said, I just missed it, because I was in a hurry.
 

capsidx

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Im in a hurry too so hopefully I need to only do this once lol. I want to get the rear main off as fast as possible. :karate:
 

capsidx

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Well rear main seal is fixed but once I put it back together it started firing on only 2 cylinders. Baffling because all 4 were firing fine a few days ago. Plugs and wires werent touched, distributor wasnt touched either. Im so confused lol. I touched the header after it idled like dog isht. one and 2 were hot and 3 & 4 were ice cold. Timing cant be off because I never touched anything on that side of the motor, I never even took the timing cover off.
 

Rusty Accord

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Well rear main seal is fixed but once I put it back together it started firing on only 2 cylinders. Baffling because all 4 were firing fine a few days ago. Plugs and wires werent touched, distributor wasnt touched either. Im so confused lol. I touched the header after it idled like dog isht. one and 2 were hot and 3 & 4 were ice cold. Timing cant be off because I never touched anything on that side of the motor, I never even took the timing cover off.

Wondering if you're not getting any fuel to those 2. Either that or no spark to them.
At least the oil leak is fixed.:)
 

capsidx

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I hope it is, I really need to run the car to be sure lol. Im going to say its fuel related and check on taht this weekend. Ordered yet another harness so I can make a better one since the old one has had it as far as the pins go. I should start making these for profit lol
 

datechboss101

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Caps, how is the good ol' Frank-en-stein going with the f20b engine? Also any plans to gut the cat once you are back in FL?
 

capsidx

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Car is still in the hospital running on 2 cylinders. I ordered another harness to rip apart, rewire and hopefully take care of the problem. Until then I have to see what I can do with the one I have. And no, im keeping my cat, running without one is stupid and offers no real gain on a Honda lol.
 

Rusty Accord

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Car is still in the hospital running on 2 cylinders. I ordered another harness to rip apart, rewire and hopefully take care of the problem. Until then I have to see what I can do with the one I have. And no, im keeping my cat, running without one is stupid and offers no real gain on a Honda lol.

Agreed. If it's a high flowing cat (like a Magnaflow) it doesn't hurt anything, and helps keep the air clean to breathe.
 

capsidx

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Update: ICM needs to be separated. 1 wire to the tach and the other to the ICM. So with that sorted the car started but for the life of my I could not get it out of the 4500 launch control. Ended up figuring that out as well. VSS was sending a signal to the cluster but not the ECU. Because of this the ECU never knew I was driving so it never disengaged the launch control :lawl: . Took it out this morning and that 8200 rpm scares the $hit out of me. The car pulls SO HARD. It actually scares me a bit. Few more odds and ends to take care of but for the most part it drives.

I have this weird 1.5 to 2k rpm hesitation issue which I think is because of the chipped ecu having IACV disabled. I had the same problem with my H and when I hooked it up all was well so I ordered a new chip with IACV enabled so hopefully that will resolve that issue. Other than that no leaks and pulls like a train lol
 
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