questions on nitrous setups (new question on pg2)

I've been thinking alot lately about trying this route out cause nitrous loves compression and I dont really wanna go the boost route on my h22... with that said for those who are curious... my car is a dd... I dont track it very often
I have an h22a4 obd2 everything with 110k miles on it... run's really well

alright would this be a terrible idea with how many miles I have on my car? I've been searching the web and I'm thinking about getting a wet kit, possibly zex or NX... with a 75 shot... I've read that you need to retard timing a little bit run colder plugs and get a fuel pressure regulator... am I missing anything? I know zex sells colder plugs.. are they the only site? Would a good tune afterwards help? also... this may sound dumb but how the hell do you tune a car with nitrous?

I've searched on here and only got 27 threads in the engine mod's section... and every one of them was started by sum idiot about 3 years ago lol... each one of them liked to call it NAAWSSSS! hahaha but any way...

any advice or help in the right direction is appriciated...

Re: questions on nitrous setups

Sounds like you have a good idea of what's going on, 110k should be no problem. Have you replaced all regular maintenance items such as timing belt, water pump, seals, etc? Getting the valves adjusted beforehand would be a plus as well. How is your head gasket? 75 shot is the most I would recommend spraying on stock internals. Get the ZEX Wet Kit. You can get either ZEX plugs, or find an equally cold equivalent locally I'm sure - you just need to compare part numbers. One of the numbers in the part number towards the end is the heat rating. I believe they go 5,7,8 not sure if they go colder. 5 is hottest, 8 is coldest. I think you need a 7.

In terms of ignition timing, contrary to popular belief that our distributors are non-adjustable, when I was replacing my head gasket I found out that indeed our distributors TRULY ARE ADJUSTABLE! Yes, just like on civics. This is why you can advance/delay your ignition timing this way, or leave it to your tuner (recommended).

Not too sure on adjustable FPR. No one mentioned that in my previous research for nitrous, but it definitely wouldn't hurt to have it, especially as an added safety/reliability/disgnosis feature. I recommend buying a Megan Racing universal FPR, but beware - you need to install it correctly and don't trust their sh*tty hoses and fittings. You need a little creativity and a trip to the hardware store to make it work like it's supposed to. It's not hard, but worth it for the price of the FPR. If you decide to get it, PM me about details on installing it - I know you need a thicker o-ring gasket - the one from the stock FPR is too small and doesn't create a seal. There are other details as well that I can inform you of, but we'll cross that bridge if you decide to get it.

A tune would definitely help as well. To tune a car with nitrous, regular driving they would leave the same. What they would tune is the air / fuel / timing curves when nitrous is deployed. Exactly how they do it I don't know. Perhaps they begin the tune with smaller shots (jets) and tune upwards to the largest jets to gradually adjust the curves to safety and pick the safest curves at the end.

Check out www.nitrousforum.com for some great info. When I had my nitrous kit I used it as a great resource! Too bad I never installed it, and decided to run a turbo instead .


Hope my info helps you at least a little bit .

Re: questions on nitrous setups

thanx man and thanx for that link Im shure I'll find alot of info...

if you think all they would change is like the air/ fuel ratio do you think a piggy back system would be alright to run? like an apexi vfac? or should I just go out and get like a hondata sX00?

on the note of tuning... how exactly do I go about doing that... say I want to get the s300 and I buy a p28... how do I get a h22 base map on it? do I send it sumwhere or do I go to a site that has chipped ecu's with h22 base maps or how's this done? lol sorry that's a really dumb question but I've never found that out.

but thanx again... I'll definately be hitting up that site!

Re: questions on nitrous setups

Scratch everything, just get a good piggyback such as A'PEXi AFC Neo, Greddy E-Manage, or A'PEXi VAFC. Next, bring it to a good tuner with plenty of nitrous tuning experience. I wouldn't even attempt tuning anything yourself at this point, please.

If you are just going to run nitrous and that's it, a piggyback is all you need.

If you have bigger plans for later:
If currently have the funds, get Hondata S300, Greddy E-Manage Ultimate, or AEM EMS.

If you do not want a standalone or don't have the funds for it, you can go the P28 route. The two websites you want to visit about ECU's and chipping are www.phearable.net and www.xenocron.com. When i did my turbo build, I used Xenocron and I highly recommend them. For H22, either one will work well. Just call them up and talk to them. Chris at Xenocron has WONDERFUL customer service and everyone there is a pleasure to talk to and are very willing and thorough in their explanations.

Let me know if you have any other questions and feel free to rep .

PS - if you buy an S300 you will have no reason to buy a P28 - it's either/or. P28 will convert you to OBD1 computer system. S300 will use your current OBD2 system and just replace your stock ECU. It is a standalone ECU, and this is why it's so expensive - also due to it's convenience and quick compatibility. Same scenario with the rest of the standalones I mentioned above.

Re: questions on nitrous setups

hahaha I feel dumb now... I really thought the s100/200/300 was a chip that you had to put in your ecu... lol and I really appriciate the help and you definately get sum rep for this you deserved it! I planned on later doing a mild build on the head but that's gonna be a little ways down the road.. and I definately planned on having sum1 tune my car. haha... Im not even gonna try. well then I'll rock the apexi vfac until that time comes! I really appriciate the help.. and I've found lots of helpful stuff on that site

(edit) alright I do have another question... In your opinion would you run a Full throttle switch or a push button? full throttle switch sounds kool because nitrous systems should only be engaged when at full throttle.. my question is... how do ppl launch their cars with out just losing all traction off the line with that set up and what if you are getting on the highway and you're full throttle trying to get up to speed? i shure as hell dont want my nitrous kicking in lol

push button sounds kool cause you can hit it when ever... problem with that seems like you might bump it accidentally and you'd have to hold it down the whole time you were wanting to use it making it harder to shift or keeping you hand on the wheel..

Re: questions on nitrous setups

Anytime man, I'll help how I can.

I believe there is another switch wired in the circuit when the throttle activation is setup. If the other switch is on (nitrous armed) then when you WOT nitrous kicks in. If the other switch is off (nitrous disarmed) then WOT will not activate nitrous. This is how they prevent accidental and unintended nitrous deployment with the WOT method.

I'd recommend the push button, in which the circuit also has an arm/disarm switch. The reason being, is that let's say you arm the nitrous, but you are accelerating from 0 or 15 on WOT, then you can blow your sh*t up due to the massive power accumulating and not enough momentum moving your vehicle yet. Needless to mention, you'd rather be spinning out if you ever launch with nitrous, because if you don't spin you're definitely going to blow up something in your engine. You NEVER want to use nitrous from a dig, while turning, or other unreasonable maneuvers. Only use it when you are entering your powerband, and only while moving straight. This is where the push-button switch is good, because you can wait until you are about to reach your powerband and then use the nitrous, without risking deploying it too early and causing unnecessary strain and pressure on your engine.

To solve the shifting/hand problem with button nitrous, just mount it on the left side of the steering wheel, or get a wheel with buttons built in F&F style haha.

Re: questions on nitrous setups

hahaha thanx man... i found out sumthin that might help the WOT switch... I was looking around more last night and came across a "window" switch... which means you're able to set the "window" that nitrous deploys since you dont want it to go off to early and you dont want it to be bouncing you off of your rev limiter... so basically you set it up at what rpm you want it to kick in and then the rpm you want it to cut out... I was thinking if I did do the WOT switch I could set it at around 4.5k rpms and set me into vtec then set it to cut off around 7k rpms so I could finish out the last 300 err so I dont bounce off the rev limiter. haha

but the push button one seems easier mabey I dunno... I'm just gonna have to go see what every one's having success with and what's failing... but thanx for all of your help man

Re: questions on nitrous setups

im lovin this thread very detailed info.
with f23 same guidelines right?
nd i think a p28 dyno tuned would be sufficient to run nitrous.
just need a good tuner
the window switch sounds cool
never heard of that before

Re: questions on nitrous setups

Same principles for F23, yes. Window switch is another option which works well, but it has to be set up to work, whereas push button is on demand at your own liking. Window switch is definitely safer, especially for those that like to just jam tha NAWWSSS, it will keep their engine safe. Push button is for those that actually know when to activate and not activate on their own judgment. P28 would be fine with nitrous, and a professional tuner is KEY to all true and safe modification.

Re: questions on nitrous setups

I ran a dry ZEX kit on my f23a5 for almost 85k miles. It was fun, but after adding up all the money I spent on nitrous, I could have just done a turbo and been done with it.

Nitrous goes fast and isnt cheap. Last time I filled my bottle it was $6.75/lb. And that was like 5 years ago.