AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Go for it man! If I wouldn't get raped returning my parts, I'd take advantage of it too! What compression would you choose?
N/A to FI: AFAccord's 10:1 Comp Turbo F23 Build Thread/Restoration
- Thread starter AFAccord
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Go for it man! If I wouldn't get raped returning my parts, I'd take advantage of it too! What compression would you choose?
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
This is a really interesting combo. Might have to look into it come summer time. I'd personally go with the 9.0:1 compression setup. great for boost
I think the higher compression pistons will create enough quench to provide at least some slight anti-detonation qualities since it should be much 'tighter' with the combustion chamber and therefore a more efficient burn.
I'm going to surface and prep the pistons really well following the link below, and I'm tempted to get the crowns ceramic coated afterwards, but I feel bad enough with the amount of money I've spent already. I'm reconsidering my HP goals too since these rods are so manly (no pun intended), but I'm still weary about how much the cylinder liners will handle after being bored .5mm over. Honda's specs say .25mm is the limit, but we know that's not entirely accurate.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/engine_tips/enginebuildingtippistons1.html
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
That's a very interesting and compelling treatment, but it's more for friction reduction and strengthening parts against fatigue failure. Had I gone with stock rods, I definitely would have had them shot-peened, or WPC treated to strengthen them a bit. But with these forged components, I don't think they'll ever see enough abuse in my setup to risk fatigue failure.
The ceramic coating has a completely different effect and purpose than the WPC. The primary benefit is containing the heat from the combustion and forcing it out of the cylinder as exhaust gas, preventing the development of hot spots on the piston that could cause detonation. The WPC treatment could possibly make the piston more resistant to damage from detonation, but not likely deter it from happening in the first place like the ceramic.
I'm actually looking into getting my transmission gearset shot-peened or WPC treated. My hope is that the treatment along with a quality differential will prevent any issues later on.
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
^ All good ideas guys.
Jason, I would have to agree with Alex, he beat me to it - I'd get pistons in 9.0:1 compression as well.
Jason, I would have to agree with Alex, he beat me to it - I'd get pistons in 9.0:1 compression as well.
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Given the option to choose my exact compression with forged components, I think I would actually go with the stock 9.3 or maybe a little higher at 9.5:1. In reality, that's still a relatively low static compression, and plenty safe to boost on while making the car pleasantly streetable out of boost.
IMO, going down to 9 flat from stock would provide no perceptible benefits to tuning, and going any lower (8.5 or less) is only ideal for a car that sees high rpms and lots of boost from a large compressor. I'm not saying that any one here is ill-informed with their setup or builds, this is just my opinion as to what is necessary for a fun, reliable street car. Ideally, I think Bisi's longer rods (better r/s) and an 8.8 piston would be awesome to throw lots of boost at and spin up to 8k.
I am only slightly (and I do mean VERY slightly) concerned with running a 10:1 compression in my own setup. Part of that is confidence in my tuner (not going at this myself), and also from watching so many K-series guys making ridiculous numbers on stock blocks at what seems like super high static compressions relative to stock F-series compression levels. Since I don't plan to run the engine up to maybe 6500rpm, I'll gladly take a bit more compression to provide a little more low-end and responsiveness.
IMO, going down to 9 flat from stock would provide no perceptible benefits to tuning, and going any lower (8.5 or less) is only ideal for a car that sees high rpms and lots of boost from a large compressor. I'm not saying that any one here is ill-informed with their setup or builds, this is just my opinion as to what is necessary for a fun, reliable street car. Ideally, I think Bisi's longer rods (better r/s) and an 8.8 piston would be awesome to throw lots of boost at and spin up to 8k.
I am only slightly (and I do mean VERY slightly) concerned with running a 10:1 compression in my own setup. Part of that is confidence in my tuner (not going at this myself), and also from watching so many K-series guys making ridiculous numbers on stock blocks at what seems like super high static compressions relative to stock F-series compression levels. Since I don't plan to run the engine up to maybe 6500rpm, I'll gladly take a bit more compression to provide a little more low-end and responsiveness.
Jason... been following your build man... sick!
Wish I had been able to go all out on my car but the local authority in Cali simply sucks when it comes to modded cars... shame I had to stock up my car. I'm going back to the Cobra Project next year.
Best of luck on your build... you have the knowledge and know you'll do just fine!
BTW: Still got the M3?
Wish I had been able to go all out on my car but the local authority in Cali simply sucks when it comes to modded cars... shame I had to stock up my car. I'm going back to the Cobra Project next year.
Best of luck on your build... you have the knowledge and know you'll do just fine!
BTW: Still got the M3?
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)
Just to confirm:
Tonight I pulled the wrist-pin retainer out of on side of a stock piston, and put the piston and rod in a pot of water and heated it almost to a boil. I pulled them out and put a 14mm deep socket on the opposite side of the wrist pin, and just a few light taps with a rubber mallet motivated the wrist pin out of the piston.
Just to confirm:
Tonight I pulled the wrist-pin retainer out of on side of a stock piston, and put the piston and rod in a pot of water and heated it almost to a boil. I pulled them out and put a 14mm deep socket on the opposite side of the wrist pin, and just a few light taps with a rubber mallet motivated the wrist pin out of the piston.
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Hey bro, thanks for dropping in! I'm really looking forward to finishing this project, but I know it's going to be a while. New wiring inside the car, cleaning up the engine bay, re-wrapping the engine harness, front brake upgrade, new retrofit, new tails, new exhaust, new OE lip kit, repairing a bent wheel, and completely repainting the car (again), on top of the new motor, cam setup and trans. It almost makes my head spin to think of everything that still needs to be addressed!
I still have quite a few aftermarket parts to source, but for the most part I've got what I need, just waiting on machine work. Stop in every now and then. I might have some favors to ask of you!
