BlowBy

Was noticing a burning oil smell after doing a pull the other day. Popped the hood and oil is all over the engine bay and the dipstick is blown out of the tube. Been doing some research and it seems like BlowBy is what is causing this. I suppose this is to be expected on a boosted engine with 199000 miles on it. Just kind of wondering if there is anything i can do to prevent this from being quite as severe until summer? Ill put a new engine in or build this one then.
Done a little research on catch-cans. opinions?

Just keep rpms low and baby it
40w might help maybe

+1

Yeah, baby it. And possibly a thicker oil could help. No high rpm's..

Driving it without changing at least the rings is kinda risky though, at any rate. I wouldn't risk it...

I had the same problem on my accord at 15psi. Then made a nice catch can and the problem went away. You might wanna do a leak down test and/or a compression test to make sure that the motor is okay.

i did a compression test a couple month ago and it turned up good even numbers across the cylinders. id like to try a leak-down.
how did the catch can make it go away? I can see how it would help keep oil from going all over the engine bay, but kinda lost on how it solves the overall problem...

Sounds to me like it's a cloaking device of sorts for an otherwise major issue

I'd do that compression test again. It's probably different haha

On the stock accord valve cover there are two ports. I had teed them together and they led to a DIY PVC piping catch can. Seeing as there was only one line leading to the can, this became a bottle neck for pressure that built up in the crank case. As the pressure built, it shot the dipstick out of place and the dipstick also became a vent for the crank case.

My second design for the can had two individual lines going to a can that i made (LINK). With two individual lines running there was enough flow to alleviate the pressure build up in the crank case. Did it completely eliminate crank case pressure? Most likely not, but it was sufficient compared to the old design.

When you have a boosted motor, you have to deal with the blow by or else it will rob your motor of power and contaminate and deteriorate your oil. In addition, if you have a built motor and your tolerances are a little looser (rings and piston to wall), you will definitely need to upgrade the valve cover and accommodate the greater blow by. Some thing like this:

cleansleeper said:

Sounds to me like it's a cloaking device of sorts for an otherwise major issue

Click to expand...

No cloaking device here . The car was running great up until i started the G23 swap lol.

Easy test to see if the piston rings are out is by doing a "wet test" run a compression test first and write down your readings then squirt a few squirts of oil into the cylinder one at a time and then check the compression on it (hook up the compression gauge bump the engine 6-7 times then compare to spec and first reading) compression should be better with the oil in it if its the rings, helps to seal around the cylinder wall during your check, another thing u can check is to see if ur pcv valve is operating correctly, take it off and shake it near ur ear, it shouldnt rattle or make a noise

but i agree with them, if ur lookin to just try to prevent it till u can tinker with it just keep ur rpms down or if u have a boost controller command ur wastegate open at a lower pressure

^ The lowest pressure at which a wastegate can open is determined by the spring in the gate, not the boost controller.

You usually only do a wet test after you have discovered that one of the cylinders isn't sealing well. The wet test is used to determine whether the valve seals or the rings are causing the loss of pressure. A dry test is sufficient for determining whether a cylinder is operating correctly.

+1

Plus he already knows what the problem is haha in his case, blow by, its going to be a ring every time.