N/A to FI: AFAccord's 10:1 Comp Turbo F23 Build Thread/Restoration

Russianred said:

Looks great bro.

In the second pic, are you tuning out that little valve that's mounted on the plenum and going in to the port you blocked off? What's it for anyways? I know it's part of the EVAP system, but what exactly does it do and what happens if you delete it?



Where did you get those plugs too - locally?

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Thanks. I want to say that is the purge valve that vents the gas tank fumes into the IM, but I'd have to take a look at a stock setup or parts diagrams to say for sure.

The plugs came from a local Ace Hardware (super store). Their hardware isle is like 200ft long!

x5carl3tMurd3rx said:

damn that looks clean. Quality work man. I dunno why I haven't already but I'm subscribing to this ****. Really excited to see the outcome of this.

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Thanks! Upon final assembly I'll throw some loc-tite on the threads. For the sake of time, cost, and DIY-ness, I'm going to clean the IM myself and spray it flat black. I might give the block the same treatment.

I'm also considering relocating the IAT sensor to the charge piping just before the TB for more accurate readings, and plugging the stock hole. I'm looking forward to reverting to the stock TB from my S2 unit to get my cruise control back. I intend to DIY gasket match the intake runners and the head, but I'm not trying to go all out with intake modifications. Simple and reliable.

I'd leave the bigger TB on especially for the turbo! No reason to downgrade.. You're smart, you can figure out something to fabricate either a pulley or double cable system so you can retain cruise control! No need to downgrade just for that c'monnn!!

Also, upon relocation of the IAT sensor to charge piping - make sure it's sealed TIGHT and SECURE. Remember, in a closed pressurized system that brings another risk point for a boost leak. Some people I know have done that with nitrous or meth injection, I've never been a fan of that for these reasons. I believe that direct porting/plumbing into metal is the best way. If you decide to plumb the sensor into the charge piping, make sure you have a bung that size welded there, don't just use a gasket or sealer around the area. For something as little as the IAT sensor, I believe the cost would outweigh the benefits. The IM doesn't get significantly hot enough to need a dead-on precise temp reading, unless you are running enormous amounts of boost and have a setup built for that.

Nope. I looked that thing over many times trying to visualize a way to fit the stock dual-rotor onto it, but i've concluded that S2 just designed it intentionally to make that impossible. It may be possible to swap my rotors onto another stock Honda TB, but I'd rather just have mine bored out with a new throttle plate installed. The S2 TB is already sold. It had an intermittent sticking issue that they're notorious for anyway. I was happy to get rid of that thing.

Lol, glad you got rid of it then! ^ EDITED see above.

Russianred said:

Also, upon relocation of the IAT sensor to charge piping - make sure it's sealed TIGHT and SECURE. Remember, in a closed pressurized system that brings another risk point for a boost leak. Some people I know have done that with nitrous or meth injection, I've never been a fan of that for these reasons. I believe that direct porting/plumbing into metal is the best way. If you decide to plumb the sensor into the charge piping, make sure you have a bung that size welded there, don't just use a gasket or sealer around the area. For something as little as the IAT sensor, I believe the cost would outweigh the benefits. The IM doesn't get significantly hot enough to need a dead-on precise temp reading, unless you are running enormous amounts of boost and have a setup built for that.

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I'll be welding a threaded bung on the charge pipe for the IAT and use teflon tape for sure. Moving the IAT sensor has its benefits, it just requires the tuner to be more diligent tuning the IAT tables. The stock location doesn't change temps as fast or much at all because the manifold gets heat soaked. I am convinced that most of the power increases people see with phenolic spacers simply comes from the ECU seeing temps that more closely match ambient temps than any change in density in the air.

Maxbore here in Sanford, FL does some good work.

Instead of painting, have you thought of the heat dissipating coat? Grimmspeed does it for Subies and Hyundai guys, I'm sure there are others as well.

Your work is very clean, very diligent, well researched. Great role model for others to follow. /

bagoon316 said:

Maxbore here in Sanford, FL does some good work.

Instead of painting, have you thought of the heat dissipating coat? Grimmspeed does it for Subies and Hyundai guys, I'm sure there are others as well.

Your work is very clean, very diligent, well researched. Great role model for others to follow. /

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Thank you for the kind words. Not every aspect of my life is as well kept as the work I do on my cars, but I know that if I short myself now, I will regret it later in one way or another. It makes a 'budget build' like this quite difficult at times, because I have to stop and consider "do I really need that in order to be reliable AND somewhat fast?"

If I send my TB and plenum off to be bored, it will either be Maxbore or PBT who does the work. At this point, I still don't plan on working the manifold much, but I do want to step each transition a little larger than the previous (ie. intake ports larger than gasket, gasket larger than runner ports, and plenum larger than TB bore). It may not be 100% free of turbulence, but it should be 100% free of obstructions.

I haven't considered any heat treatments on the intake side. I intend to use a phenolic spacer from Bisi between the manifold and head, and from what I've seen, that should be plenty to prevent heat soak. However, I am looking into different coatings for the exhaust side.

Got the Accord out of the garage today on account of the nice weather. (Partly cloudy, 72*) Started taping stuff off in the bay and scrubbing with scotch brite, steel wool and some Awesome cleaner.

BEFORE PICS:

Looks good man.. So thoughts about my last post on OCO?

Jason, check out this IM I spied earlier...

http://www.onecamonly.com/showthread.php?t=2651

Looks to be pretty efficient with the long runners and no extra compartments in the plenum!

Thoughts? It's off a EDM F18B2, which is basically a de-stroked F23. The hard part would be getting your hands on one.

After:





















I used about half of a 20oz bottle of LA's Totally Awesome degreaser.



This stuff is great, because the 20oz spray bottle is only $1, and the 32oz bottle is just $3! It seems to work just as good as Purple Power and its competitors. I don't recommend using this on paint, but did just because it was so greasy and here in the engine bay, I can always retouch with minimal effort. I started by soaking all the surfaces I wanted to clean and giving them a light scrub with a wheel brush. I was careful not to let it soak for too long. Once I had agitated all the tough areas, I hit the whole bay with a pressure washer. The first round took almost everything off, and made a world of difference, but there was still a bit of yellowing on some of the surfaces. I resprayed those areas and used some steel wool to scrub it away. Round 2 with the pressure washer was all that was needed.

I'm pretty happy with the results. I'll pick up some Duplicolor spray paint soon to touch up some of the areas in the front and sides of the bay where there is rust, or where the paint was taken off by the steel wool. First I need to scotch brite all the surfaces to give the paint something to adhere to.