ryan s
they dont think it
ohhhh yeah...forgot about the DRL thing. then yeah...your cable is probably out of adjustment if the parking lights come on. at least its a simple and free fix...
"Brake" light is on
- Thread starter cirsurvive711
- Start date
Millz
Well-Known Member
LOL i just burst out laughing cause ive seen it happen before
DarkSideAccord
nadeshiko fobz ftw..
mine's still on after i changed my brakes
and u go to UTI?
:roy:
+1 the float may just need to be replaced
cirsurvive711
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys I'm taking it to my mechanic this Wednesday
HondaLuver83
Well-Known Member
Hmm, I could have sworn I have already given advice to the OP. Why do people continue on saying the same things over and over and over. It's just kind of redundant
ryan s
they dont think it
probably because half of your solution is incorrect? (about adding fluid) 
cant speak for anyone else, though.
cant speak for anyone else, though.
HondaLuver83
Well-Known Member
probably because half of your solution is incorrect? (about adding fluid)
cant speak for anyone else, though.
What's the problem there?
When your pads wear, it requires the caliper to compress more. Thus, drawing more fluid from the master cylinder to the brake calipers. If the pads are low enough, it will draw enough fluid from the MC to cause the break light to come on.
You can add fluid to the MC until you find time to change your pads, if the break pressure is too low. My pad clips were not even touching the rotors when I needed to add fluid to mine, I had about another 1,000 miles before I needed to change my pads.
When you install your new pads, your going to need to take the cap off the MC and suck out a good amount of fluid. Because when you re-open your brake calipers to fit the new pads, it will push the fluid back into the master cylinder.
If you dont take that fluid out before hand, you will have a big mess, you're right.
For most people on this site, its not an option for them to change their own brake pads. Not everyone has money to pay a mechanic right away, I'm just giving advice to buy them a little bit more time.
x2
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ryan s
they dont think it
where's all the fluid going? i've never added brake fluid to a car unless there was bleeding involved. one should never have to add fluid between hardware changes unless they're doing something to make it boil and therefore evaporate. and at that point, it's time to switch to DOT5 or similar.
likewise, i've NEVER heard of anyone sucking fluid out before/during a brake job unless, once again, a bleed/flush is involved.
what are you doing to have such low fluid in the first place? turned rotors? rotors turned multiple times? master at "low"? never changed your fluid? expanding lines? if ANYONE's fluid level goes so low as to require adding more fluid than just a splash (top up), there's a problem somewhere...
likewise, i've NEVER heard of anyone sucking fluid out before/during a brake job unless, once again, a bleed/flush is involved.
what are you doing to have such low fluid in the first place? turned rotors? rotors turned multiple times? master at "low"? never changed your fluid? expanding lines? if ANYONE's fluid level goes so low as to require adding more fluid than just a splash (top up), there's a problem somewhere...
HondaLuver83
Well-Known Member
My fluid was not that low as you're describing. No my drums were not turned during that time and there were no leaks. I always flush my brakes every 1-2 years.
Perhaps it was because my rear pads were very low at the time my front were low. Maybe the float was stuck, I'm not sure. I added a little bit of fluid, like maybe a splash or two as you suggested and the light went away. I am just speaking on what I have experienced with my car. Obviously, if your MC is halfway empty you probably have a leak somewhere or your fluid is so old and absorbing water and then evaporating.
On a side note: I did have to suck out the fluid I added before I decided to finally change my front and rear pads.
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