DIY: Rebuilding a Greddy TD05SH-18G

simon_y

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After my last DIY about rebuilding Brembos, I promised myself that I will never write another DIY because it is so tiring and time consuming and the rebuild process took twice as long because you have to stop, put everything down and document and take pictures. But since nobody has written a DIY Turbo rebuild, might as well help out the 6GA family as some of you might find this handy.

This is a Guide to rebuilding my Greddy TD05Sh-18G, which is also known as the Greddy T18z. This is Turbo specific but many of the steps are similar to many other turbos like the TD04, TD05, TD06, 14G, 16G, 18G, and 20G. *follow at your own discretion, Damages that are done are not my fault because you damaged it yourself or dropped it*

Tools:
10mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
Snap ring pliers
Oil
Locktite
Towels
Needle Nose Pliers
Small Flat Head Screwdriver

1) The turbo we are working on
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2) Remove the E-Clip holding the wastegate actuator to the flap.
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3) Next Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the wastegate onto the compressor housing.
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4) Now remove the V-band clamp by removing the 10mm bolt
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5) Now slowly slide off the turbine housing without hitting the fins.
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Look at that oil!! signs of a leaky compressor seal.
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6) Remove the giant C-clip holding the turbine housing on with the needle nose pliers.
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7) Now you should have the whole center housing. Now look at the nut and shaft to see if it is reverse thread or not. Some loosen clockwise and some loosen counter clockwise. In this case mine loosens clockwise so when it spins it will tighten instead of loosening. you can check this by looking at your thread to see which way they go.
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8) Now in order to keep everything balanced and not throw everything off balance when you remove it, you should scribe a line going from the shaft to the nut and to the compressor wheel. That way you will know where everything lines up when you reassemble.
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9) Now remove the nut holding the turbine wheel on. You will also need to hold onto the turbine wheel nut to stop it from spinning. *Remember, you are turning it as if you are tightening because its reverse thread*. Then the compressor wheel should come right off.
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10) The entire shaft assembly should now just push out from the back.
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Look at the oil again on my heat shield!!!
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11) Now slowly remove the worn out turbine seal on the shaft assembly.
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12) Now take your snap ring pliers and remove the C-clip that is holding in the oil shield. Now take a flat head screwdriver and gently pry up on the lip to remove it.
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13) Once removed, you now have to remove the worn out O-ring from the center housing.
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14) Now gently lift up on the thrust plate with a flat head screwdriver and remove it.
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15) Now remove the thrust collar and journal bearing from the center housing.
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16) Now remove the worn out giant O-ring that seals the center housing to the compressor cover.
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17) Now clean all the parts that you are gonna reuse. I used a small flat head screwdriver to scrape off the black carbon from the turbine side and brake cleaner and a clean lint free towel.

18) Now install the new turbine seal being careful not to damage or warp it. After that install the new journal bearing. Add plenty of engine oil for lubricant or a heavy lubricant if you have any.
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19) First put the heat shield back on. Now gently slide the turbine assembly into the housing with the journal bearing installed on the shaft. Keep lowering it until it "Clicks" in. That's the turbine seal seating itself in the housing.
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20) Now install the other journal bearing on the reverse side of the housing and make sure you use a lot of assembly lube or engine oil for lubricant. Then follow that by installing the the thrust collar.
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21) Now install the new thrust plate making sure the hole goes into the pin.
Once installed, you now have to install the new O-ring after the thrust plate.
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22) Now separate the oil deflector from the oil shield by pushing it out. Then replace the Compressor seal with a new one and re-install it like how you took it out. Once again you will hear the compressor seal "Click" when it snaps in. If it doesn't, then don't force it in cause you will damage and or warp the seal.
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23) Now install the oil shield through the turbine shaft and lower it into the center assembly. use lots of lube because its going to be impossible to push it through the O-ring without any proper lubrication.
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24) Now using your snap ring pliers. Install the C-clip with the beveled side facing up.
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25) Now install the compressor wheel onto the shaft. Make sure put on some Locktite on the threads to make sure it won't vibrate off. *Remember those lines you scribed into everything, now here is where you make sure everything will line up so thee balance will not be affected* be careful when torquing the nut because the compressor wheel will move and you have to keep an eye out in case it goes out of line.
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26) Now slowly lower the center assembly into the compressor housing, once again trying not to knock the compressor wheel fins while going in. then using needle nose pliers, reinstall the giant C-clip making sure that the beveled side is facing up.
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27) Some Turbos have a hole and a pin so you know where the exact rotation of the turbo will be, but seeing mine doesn't have anything to lock it in, I'm gonna have to find out how to rotate the turbo when it is installed.
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28) Now reinstall the V-band clamp using a 10mm wrench or socket.
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29) Now reinstall the wastegate actuator with the two 12mm bolts and don't forget the E-clip that holes the flapper door.
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30) Tada!!! Now reinstall and enjoy the beauty that is the turbo!!! Soon, this will be going in.... heheeeee.
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RedRyder

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I know nothing of the snail, but this is a well documented, thorough guide. Good work man.

I know what you mean about documenting making the job take a very long time, Rich and I did it with my swap. Could have been done in 3/4 the time, if not less.
 
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kwak123

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Super impressive.. I'm jaw dropped by the sheer quality of the guide o.o you sir are a master:eh:
 

Halabeaster54

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Damn impressive! I wish I knew what i was reading but its seems like the best guide ever for someone that needs to rebuild their turbo. I wish someone can do this on how to wire up the fog lights...:hide:

Sent from my EVO 3D using Tapatalk
 

method5150

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:::bows down::: awesome write-up!! Everyone appreciates your hard work... these write-ups are a pain but they truly do help others become more knowledgeable! (save a lil coin too!!! ) Turbo, I'm jealous!

Quick question... sorry, am still sort of a noob on posts. How do you get those huge re-sized images? When I use photobucket to post pics it always makes them small with no option to re size.
 

simon_y

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Thanks Guys! Was a lot of work. lol.

:::bows down::: awesome write-up!! Everyone appreciates your hard work... these write-ups are a pain but they truly do help others become more knowledgeable! (save a lil coin too!!! ) Turbo, I'm jealous!

Quick question... sorry, am still sort of a noob on posts. How do you get those huge re-sized images? When I use photobucket to post pics it always makes them small with no option to re size.

I didn't do anything to resize them. I used Photobucket too, but all I did was just copy the IMG Code from that picture off Photobucket.
 

Revenuite

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Great DIY.

What made you rebuild it...was it performance, or that it had never been rebuilt yet and you thought it would benefit or should be done at this point?
 
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