UPDATED: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA

Sil2DrV6

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Untitled by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr

Empty space. PO apparently rolled his own cigarettes and chewed a lot of gym. So many gum wrappers underneath the auto shifter. Pulled out at least three five stick packs of gym, countless wrappers, and a few lighters.
:ohsnap:
Possible evidences collected to the forensics... :secret:


J/k. :p


Glad to see these things on the move. :) Enjoy the best part on the quest! Fingers crossed for GL to you, Evan.
 

puzzlemaster94

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Things are happening!!! Nice progress when u swap from auto to manual computers do u need to re pin anything or is it just plug and play I'm doing my 5spd swap soon and wanted to know. I guess I have to re pin the clutch switch?


I think I'll need to cut the end off of my manual harness and repin the cars harness to the new end. That a few other little wiring issues. Talked to Varnell about this. Chris, chime in if you can remember some of the wiring.

Evan, did you get a chance to try the J30 rear mounting bracket? I remember reading that the J30 bracket works with the Innovative mounts. If not, I'm out $100+ as well...


The J30 rear motor mount is a stud type, and the Innovative one I received was a bolt type, like the passenger side. I also looked online at the CL-S mount and it was the same type of mount. Also regarding this mount, this is no ETA on restocking it. I talked to Tim @OEMAcura and he said I'd check Canada. I did find one used for sale. I've also heard Odyssey's use this rear mount bracket, but haven't confirmed it.

:ohsnap:

Possible evidences collected to the forensics... :secret:





J/k. :p





Glad to see these things on the move. :) Enjoy the best part on the quest! Fingers crossed for GL to you, Evan.


Thanks Richard, just waiting on more parts as usual




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TurboAccord99

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The J30 rear motor mount is a stud type, and the Innovative one I received was a bolt type, like the passenger side. I also looked online at the CL-S mount and it was the same type of mount. Also regarding this mount, this is no ETA on restocking it. I talked to Tim @OEMAcura and he said I'd check Canada. I did find one used for sale. I've also heard Odyssey's use this rear mount bracket, but haven't confirmed it.

Yeah, tried purchasing the bracket and it is on backorder. Where did you find yours used? Any idea which odyssey has a posible donor part? I noticed that the 2006 Odyssey has a similar bracket, but the bolts used are not the same size. The 2014 Ridgeline also uses a similar bracket. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

TurboAccord99

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Yeah, tried purchasing the bracket and it is on backorder. Where did you find yours used? Any idea which odyssey has a posible donor part? I noticed that the 2006 Odyssey has a similar bracket, but the bolts used are not the same size. The 2014 Ridgeline also uses a similar bracket. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Nevermind, just got an email stating the part was back in stock. Whew, dodged a big time headache there.
 

TurboAccord99

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It was. Are you kidding me? I drove 5 hours to get one lol. Oh well, I guess. Odysseys use the same bracket apparently on the J35 models.

I really lucked out. The 2010 TLs also have a similar design, but I was not able to confirm if the holes all matched up. By the way, which Innovative mounts are you using? Accord/CL/TL auto mounts or the manual mounts? I bought the auto mounts (#10350) a long time ago. I hope these work...

[Update] Looks like my mounts won't work since the Innovative rear mount is a vertical design. Looks like I will need to use the auto mount bracket...
 
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puzzlemaster94

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Well worked on the car some more today. I realized today how vastly uneducated I am about this swap and all the little stuff that goes into it. I'll try to make notes about most of this, so most of you won't have the questions and issues I'm having right now. Maybe it's just me, though.

First, got the brake master cylinder and booster off the firewall. To make more room to mount the master cylinder. Then drilled out the firewall for the clutch pedal and started to tackle the brake pedal. Removed the exhaust heat shield above the cat to access and check bolt patterns. Got the new manual mount of the J32, changed plugs, did little maintenance. J32 is ready to go in, just got to take care of the issues I'm having, so I have more room to work.

Now the issues I'm having:

1.) I believe I read that the 7th Gen shifter mounts with 3 bolts, and you have to drill the 4th. This is false. The front two bolts will bolt where the auto shifter sat. The rears are about a 1/4inch off or so. So naturally, just make new holes. Well there is a crossmember right under those holes, making it an extremely tight spot.

2.) My brand new CL-S master cylinder was broken when I got it, so that has to go back and wait for a new one.

3.) Now apparently I'm in uncharted territory here. I'm using a 7th Gen transmission with a CL-S6 ECU. This means everything must go together perfectly or I'm in limp mode. Only option I see to this, if this doesn't go together right, is AEM standalone. More tuning to make it so much easier, but its very expensive.

4.) Still trying to figure out if I cut off the third plug for the ECU and repin or if I have to pull the whole harness.

5.) When you mount the clutch, you have two studs that you bolt it to from the master. The problem with this is, there is no top support. The more you press on the pedal, the more it wears out the place it's mounted. So I'd love to see someone's clutch setup and how they did it. Chris, you've daily drove yours for years, I'd love to see how your clutch pedal is mounted. Because it looks like I'll have to fab something up for the top
 

RedRyder

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1) For mounting the shifter can you drill the holes in the plastic shifter box instead of the car to use the original two rear holes the auto shifter used, and adapt hardware to bolt it on? Since I used a 7GA tranny w/CL-S shifter, I needed to weld the post on the shifter arm of the trans to make the linkage work correctly. You've got it easier with a trans/shifter from the same car.

2) I remember mounting the master cylinder, I hated it with the fire of 1000 suns. If you get pissed, walk away lol. Don't want to break it.

3) Bilal is selling an AEM tuning solution, not sure if it's compatible with your setup though: http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43598

4) Since Rich handled my wiring I can't help you here, sorry.

5) I bought the notoriously stupid expensive clutch pedal mounting bracket, but ended up not using it thanks to Rich. I will get some photos of my setup for you. I think I already mentioned this but it saves a lot of work/headache to just cut off some off of the auto brake pedal instead of tearing it out and mounting a manual one. But I don't blame you if you don't want to do that.
 

puzzlemaster94

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1) For mounting the shifter can you drill the holes in the plastic shifter box instead of the car to use the original two rear holes the auto shifter used, and adapt hardware to bolt it on? Since I used a 7GA tranny w/CL-S shifter, I needed to weld the post on the shifter arm of the trans to make the linkage work correctly. You've got it easier with a trans/shifter from the same car.

2) I remember mounting the master cylinder, I hated it with the fire of 1000 suns. If you get pissed, walk away lol. Don't want to break it.

3) Bilal is selling an AEM tuning solution, not sure if it's compatible with your setup though: http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43598

4) Since Rich handled my wiring I can't help you here, sorry.

5) I bought the notoriously stupid expensive clutch pedal mounting bracket, but ended up not using it thanks to Rich. I will get some photos of my setup for you. I think I already mentioned this but it saves a lot of work/headache to just cut off some off of the auto brake pedal instead of tearing it out and mounting a manual one. But I don't blame you if you don't want to do that.

Thank you for posting and helping me out. Id like to change my answer from uneducated to unprepared. I've got all the big stuff, its just the little things like master cylinders pins or rubber o-rings that get to you.

1)We probably will just do that, as it's not going in another car after mine

2)Yea, the master will be the best part yet lol

3) I believe AEM will work with any solution and it just plugs right in and you tune it from there.

4)Yea, and you have the harness that plugs everything up

5)If you can get some pictures of that, I'd greatly appreciate it
 

puzzlemaster94

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So big updates here since last time. Master is in, motor/transmission is in, engine harness all plugged in, ECU is in, J37 manifold with J35 top plate is on, J32 throttle body and adapter are on the manifold as well. Stud welded on the shifter adapter, so the gears are the right way, not backwards.

So the J37 Manifold consists of:
--J37 manifold body
--J35 top manifold plate
--P2R throttle body spacer
--J32a2 throttle body

Basically at this point, I need to figure out wiring, grab a few vaccum block-off ports, and vaccuum lines. Then its just putting everything back together.

Didn't get pictures of what I did today though.

Untitled by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr


Untitled by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr

This is a transmission soleniod, or where it used to go. I believe it locks out reverse when driving, but I don't know for sure. It's a normally 270-310 dollar part. I called Tim @OEMAcura and got it for less than that. If you all need anything, call this man. He knows everything.

Anyway, some stuff to help out on the J37 manifold.

1.) There is a port that points to the passenger side on this manifold, you can block this off.
2.) On the back, there are two heater hose ports, and the Accord only has one port. You'll need a Vacuum-T for this.
3.) When putting the J32 throttle body on, it will sit at a little bit more of an angle than it did on the J32a2 manifold.


I'll have to get some better pictures of the other stuff sometime here shortly, but its getting there.
 
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