6thgenwarrior
Member
Now the idle varies sometimes on a cold start its normal the 12-1600 range sometimes it revs up to near 3000 I drove the other day and it never hang up or anything it was perfect then all the sudden it just started again
Cg3 5spd rpm hanging
- Thread starter 6thgenwarrior
- Start date
What I as trying to say before is if the car idles near 2000rpm maybe you need to free up the throttle cables because its not retracting quick enough. Your IAC valve sounds clogged to me and PCV. I know you said that "the throttle cable is working freely I've already check it I've looked for vacuum leaks. No I'm at a loss of ideas unless it is the idle control valve but due to its high cost I'm still holding out hope." But having a clean TB is different from TB springs wearing out prevent the cables from releasing quickly.
6thgenwarrior
Member
The car is starting to get worse now when the idle does drop it almost stalls out completely but will pick up at last second. The other day I drove home and it was fine this just started again. When I first crank the car it idles fine I can rev it in neutral and it drops fine it only stick when I am shifting out of gear or coming to a stop
6thgenwarrior
Member
Pcv is good it is a new one only been in around a month so I should start looking harder at the iacv
6thgenwarrior
Member
Next question the auto parts store said their was a difference in the iacv from automatic to manual which I know is true I was wondering however if that difference comes with the part it's self or if it's in the wiring on the car? Thanks guys
Any codes?
I'm thinking either a fueling error, which you should have a code for.
-or-
The iacv issue, for that I'd start by pulling & cleaning it. Inspect for damage.
I doubt a vac leak, since it can make it idle correctly, most vac leaks don't come & go.
I'm thinking either a fueling error, which you should have a code for.
-or-
The iacv issue, for that I'd start by pulling & cleaning it. Inspect for damage.
I doubt a vac leak, since it can make it idle correctly, most vac leaks don't come & go.
6thgenwarrior
Member
Yes I ran the obd2 today the codes I got were for the throttle position sensor and the barometric pressure sensor give you any more ideas?
Look at the PID's for both.
Compare the barometic reading to the MAP reading with the engine off.
Also with the engine off watch the TPS PID in it's whole range.
With the TPS not working it doesn't know that it should idle, and with the barometic dead it doesn't know if you are on a mountain or not.
Old cars (iirc, only old cars) used the map for barometric after turned on, before cranked. A split second, really! They would need restarted on mountains to make them run right.
Compare the barometic reading to the MAP reading with the engine off.
Also with the engine off watch the TPS PID in it's whole range.
With the TPS not working it doesn't know that it should idle, and with the barometic dead it doesn't know if you are on a mountain or not.
Old cars (iirc, only old cars) used the map for barometric after turned on, before cranked. A split second, really! They would need restarted on mountains to make them run right.
6thgenwarrior
Member
Alright man what do you mean exactly by PID and by any chance would resetting the codes maybe set it back to normal?
Resetting is always worth a shot.
PID is the value the scanner shows. Like for TPS, instead of raw data, like a voltage or resistance, you see a percentage. Most go from like ~10% with the throttle closed to ~95% with it wide open. You will be looking at that, the ends, and strange jumps.
PID is the value the scanner shows. Like for TPS, instead of raw data, like a voltage or resistance, you see a percentage. Most go from like ~10% with the throttle closed to ~95% with it wide open. You will be looking at that, the ends, and strange jumps.
