I ended up giving Angelsuhc or whatever his name is a hazard switch because his spring broke. So even if you do have the switch, if it is not working properly, your turn signals more than likely won't work.
DIY LED clock light (w/ pics)
- Thread starter thejameshimself
- Start date
I ended up giving Angelsuhc or whatever his name is a hazard switch because his spring broke. So even if you do have the switch, if it is not working properly, your turn signals more than likely won't work.
rustyxsurfx08
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Posts
- 189
- Reaction score
- 0
ok i took it apart and i dont think i put it back together right so can anyone help me out with this? how does it go back together?
blueguitar322
Member
With the help of this stellar thread, I just successfully replaced a dead OEM fuse with a nice bright blue one from RadioShack (Motto: You've got questions, so do we).
My LED of choice was 5mm 3.7V 20mA with brightness of 2600mcd and 50% angle of 30 degrees. I paired it with a 470-ohm resistor. Here's a few notes from my experience:
- According to my frame of reference, the circular trace on the PCB is in bottom right corner. The bottom semi-circle needs to be soldered to the resistor, then to the LED, then to the top semi-circle.
- I couldn't see any difference in daylight. I thought I had failed until I tried again after it got dark.
- After my first installation (and not being satisfied with brightness) I chose the "drill a hole so that the LED is facing the right way" method, although I didn't actually have to drill. On my clock (2000 EX i4) there was a vent with two small plastic tabs forming a grill. I just used pliars to snab those plastic tabs off and - voila! - I could angle the LED to pretty much double the brightness. This is why the 30-degree range is important...if you buy an LED with a wider range that produces the same luminence (measured in mcd) it might not be an issue.
- Be sure to not short-circuit the LED with the car running! You'll blow fuse #9 (7.5A) which also controls your tachometer and speedometer. Radioshack doesn't carry them, but Autozone and Walmart do. In hindsight, I really should've gotten the shrink wrap one of the previous posters used.
- Haynes manual was helpful for figuring out which fuse I blew. Their circuit diagrams are pretty solid, and all things considered that book is well worth the money.
Hope this helps someone.
Dave
My LED of choice was 5mm 3.7V 20mA with brightness of 2600mcd and 50% angle of 30 degrees. I paired it with a 470-ohm resistor. Here's a few notes from my experience:
- According to my frame of reference, the circular trace on the PCB is in bottom right corner. The bottom semi-circle needs to be soldered to the resistor, then to the LED, then to the top semi-circle.
- I couldn't see any difference in daylight. I thought I had failed until I tried again after it got dark.
- After my first installation (and not being satisfied with brightness) I chose the "drill a hole so that the LED is facing the right way" method, although I didn't actually have to drill. On my clock (2000 EX i4) there was a vent with two small plastic tabs forming a grill. I just used pliars to snab those plastic tabs off and - voila! - I could angle the LED to pretty much double the brightness. This is why the 30-degree range is important...if you buy an LED with a wider range that produces the same luminence (measured in mcd) it might not be an issue.
- Be sure to not short-circuit the LED with the car running! You'll blow fuse #9 (7.5A) which also controls your tachometer and speedometer. Radioshack doesn't carry them, but Autozone and Walmart do. In hindsight, I really should've gotten the shrink wrap one of the previous posters used.
- Haynes manual was helpful for figuring out which fuse I blew. Their circuit diagrams are pretty solid, and all things considered that book is well worth the money.
Hope this helps someone.
Dave
F23A1AT
Well-Known Member
Yeah uhh I know this is a really old thread but whatev.
I "built" one of these LED setups, I failed. My LED/Resistor worked fine but when I plugged in the harness the light did not come on. I have several other lights out in the same area (Fan speed, all 5 of the vent directions, and hazard light) could I possibly have a fuse out?
I "built" one of these LED setups, I failed. My LED/Resistor worked fine but when I plugged in the harness the light did not come on. I have several other lights out in the same area (Fan speed, all 5 of the vent directions, and hazard light) could I possibly have a fuse out?
thejameshimself
Well-Known Member
How do you know your led/resistor worked fine?
Doubtful it's a fuse but you can look in your owners manual to find the location of the fuses. The fuse for the clock is the same as the odometer. The one for the A/C is separate.
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
Um... maybe you should open your panel and check your fuses???
It could be that, or it could be the multiplexor. What else isn't working for you? Just HVAC lights?
It could be that, or it could be the multiplexor. What else isn't working for you? Just HVAC lights?
F23A1AT
Well-Known Member
I plugged it into a wall outlet after the first failure. I know bad move but it was only for < 1 second
F23A1AT
Well-Known Member
no, half of the HVAC is lit the other half is dead
LIT = thermostat(red/blue Dial) and the three buttons on the bottom(inside recirc. A/C, rear defroster
Dark = fan speed dial and numbers 1..4, five directional buttons face vents face/floor, floor, floor/windshield, windshield
BTW the green "on" lights at these buttons do work
thejameshimself
Well-Known Member
oh boy. you probably let the magic smoke out.
LEDs ~= 3.3V DC
wall ~=110V AC
You have to have your key in the start position for the clock light to come on - it doesn't necessarily come on with the rest of the lights. if the odometer is lighting up then the clock should be.
Also try plugging the clock in, starting the car and reading the voltage of the contacts for the bulb. should be around 14.
Finally, not to sound like a dick, don't plug it into the wall. Screwing around with your car's interior lighting can't get you hurt but plugging something like that into the wall could lead to shorts, electrocution, fire, god knows what.
