BatMan
Well-Known Member
I've read there were Ignition Switch recalls done on these accords...could mine be one of them? How can I find out?
Car appears to want to shut off when I brake...
- Thread starter BatMan
- Start date
silverbullet99
Well-Known Member
Safety Recall: Ignition Switch
(Supersedes 02-031, dated September 17, 2002)
BACKGROUND
Electrical contacts in the ignition switch can wear
prematurely due to high electrical current passing
through the switch. Worn out ignition contacts could
cause the engine to stall without warning. Although the
engine will restart in most cases, a vehicle that stalls
while driving increases the risk of a crash.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
• 1997 Accord (L4)
• 1998–99 Accord (L4 and V6)
• 1998–00 Civic
• 1997–99 CR-V
• 1997–00 Odyssey
• 1997–99 Prelude
Not every vehicle in the years and models listed
above is affected by this campaign. Before
beginning work, verify that the vehicle is eligible by
checking at least one of the following.
• The customer has a notification letter.
• The vehicle is shown on your campaign
responsibility report.
• The vehicle is shown as eligible on a DCS or iN
(Interactive Network) VIN Status Inquiry.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a
notification of this campaign. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service
bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the electrical (ignition) switch.
NOTE: Reinstalling aftermarket parts (security
systems, alarms, audio systems, etc.) connected to the
ignition wiring is not covered under this campaign. If a
customer wants a non-Honda part reinstalled, the shop
that installed the part (or the customer) must do the
work and assume liability. In addition, the customer is
responsible for all costs associated with the non-Honda
part and its installation. If you have any questions
about this, please contact your District Service
Manager.
I'd bring it to your nearest honda dealer and tell them to take a look at it.
(Supersedes 02-031, dated September 17, 2002)
BACKGROUND
Electrical contacts in the ignition switch can wear
prematurely due to high electrical current passing
through the switch. Worn out ignition contacts could
cause the engine to stall without warning. Although the
engine will restart in most cases, a vehicle that stalls
while driving increases the risk of a crash.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
• 1997 Accord (L4)
• 1998–99 Accord (L4 and V6)
• 1998–00 Civic
• 1997–99 CR-V
• 1997–00 Odyssey
• 1997–99 Prelude
Not every vehicle in the years and models listed
above is affected by this campaign. Before
beginning work, verify that the vehicle is eligible by
checking at least one of the following.
• The customer has a notification letter.
• The vehicle is shown on your campaign
responsibility report.
• The vehicle is shown as eligible on a DCS or iN
(Interactive Network) VIN Status Inquiry.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a
notification of this campaign. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service
bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the electrical (ignition) switch.
NOTE: Reinstalling aftermarket parts (security
systems, alarms, audio systems, etc.) connected to the
ignition wiring is not covered under this campaign. If a
customer wants a non-Honda part reinstalled, the shop
that installed the part (or the customer) must do the
work and assume liability. In addition, the customer is
responsible for all costs associated with the non-Honda
part and its installation. If you have any questions
about this, please contact your District Service
Manager.
I'd bring it to your nearest honda dealer and tell them to take a look at it.
BatMan
Well-Known Member
Ok, so a few things I have noticed:
-Car under idles only in the mornings and the afternoon, at night, it runs smoothly
-The time between drives: Mornings - 7 hours, Afternoon - 9 hours, Night - 5 hours
-I replaced the battery and the car did not turn off on me at all until yesterday, it had been a week
-Car turns off in the afternoon, when it is super hot, and I'm either driving really slow on the freeway in traffic or slow on the street
I'm taking it to a mechanic (regular, or is a Honda Dealership better?) today but I know how that goes so any suggestions on what I should tell him / not tell him so he can have a better idea of what the problem might be so he won't fix something unnecessary and charge me for nothing while the car isn't even fixed...?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
EDIT: The only thing I have replaced on the car is the IACV gasket and battery.
-Car under idles only in the mornings and the afternoon, at night, it runs smoothly
-The time between drives: Mornings - 7 hours, Afternoon - 9 hours, Night - 5 hours
-I replaced the battery and the car did not turn off on me at all until yesterday, it had been a week
-Car turns off in the afternoon, when it is super hot, and I'm either driving really slow on the freeway in traffic or slow on the street
I'm taking it to a mechanic (regular, or is a Honda Dealership better?) today but I know how that goes so any suggestions on what I should tell him / not tell him so he can have a better idea of what the problem might be so he won't fix something unnecessary and charge me for nothing while the car isn't even fixed...?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
EDIT: The only thing I have replaced on the car is the IACV gasket and battery.
BatMan
Well-Known Member
scratch that.
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A main relay? What is this exactly/where is it/how did you diagnose it/fix it/how much does it take to fix/replace? Lol sorry for all the questions.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Main relay failure is not uncommon on these cars. It is a relay switch that engages the fuel pump when the key is turned to position III, right before you turn the engine over. However, over time the relay deteriorates and in intense heat will not function, thus not initializing the fuel pump.
The main relay is up under the dash above the pedals and to the left of the steering column, and is around $125-$150 to replace at your Honda dealer. Or $50-$65 to do it yourself.
You can tell the main relay can be a cause when you turn your key to position III, and you can't hear the fuel pump engage (quiet whine/whistle sound). That can also mean a faulty pump or something else, but when the car starts in cool weather but not hot weather, you know it's the main relay.
Temporary fix is to leave your car windows/sunroof cracked, and when you go to start the car after it has set outside, listen for the fuel pump and if it doesn't engage, open your driver and passenger doors and let the car sit for 5-10 minutes. Then give it a try. I'm currently in this situation and doing this until I get the relay replaced.
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BatMan
Well-Known Member
I guess the main relay only fixed the car shaking when I brake problem and turning off problem...my RPMs still drop sometimes to 200-300 when I brake. Dammit. At least it is not turning off anymore. BUT it does "rev" on its own after I am stopped for a while, the RPMS will be low then the car sounds like it "revs" then the RPMS go up.
And to the guy above who asked all the questions, I had a co-workers friend do it while we were working, literally in the parking lot. lol. He just told me to go outside, said it was the main relay and he would fix it for $70.
One more question to everyone, how exactly do I adjust the RPMS?
And to the guy above who asked all the questions, I had a co-workers friend do it while we were working, literally in the parking lot. lol. He just told me to go outside, said it was the main relay and he would fix it for $70.
One more question to everyone, how exactly do I adjust the RPMS?
BatMan
Well-Known Member
SON OF A *****. I SPOKE TOO SOON.
The car turned off on me this morning while I was stopped. DAMMIT!!!!!
BUT...could it be that I had little gas in the car? It wasn't on the "E" line, it was above it...I'd say I had 1/8th of a tank left.
The car turned off on me this morning while I was stopped. DAMMIT!!!!!
BUT...could it be that I had little gas in the car? It wasn't on the "E" line, it was above it...I'd say I had 1/8th of a tank left.
BatMan
Well-Known Member
Ok, so some guy at work adjusted my RPM's with a screwdriver and now the CEL light is on, is that normal?
He also said he checked out the car and he found nothing wrong with it...? What I was going to do after work was buy a new "Main Relay", the one above the brake pedal, and replace it, because after doing some searching I found a thread on V6performance.net that says if I was having the following symptoms: "Car turns on but immediately dies" then it is the "Main Relay". Is this correct?
What the guy replaced before was the wire coming from the fuel pump to the front of the car.
ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
I really need my car.
He also said he checked out the car and he found nothing wrong with it...? What I was going to do after work was buy a new "Main Relay", the one above the brake pedal, and replace it, because after doing some searching I found a thread on V6performance.net that says if I was having the following symptoms: "Car turns on but immediately dies" then it is the "Main Relay". Is this correct?
What the guy replaced before was the wire coming from the fuel pump to the front of the car.
ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
I really need my car.
