Brake pads

$10-25 per

orrrrrrr...you could just save the time and noobery and get "oem replacements" for $15 each. oh oops...you have to know people for deals like those then theyre more like $30 each.

lol it sounds like they just gonna get a drill and a pad and just buff the surface shyt off.

youll **** them up even more.



do it.

You can sand the rotors to get the glazing off, I've done it and it works great. Use 60 grit paper.

You don't HAVE to replace/refinish the rotors every time you change the pads, that's just overkill and a waste of money.

Reasons for replacing rotors:
- Warped
- Too thin (I want to say minimum thickness is ~26.XXmm, should be stamped on the rotor and measure with a runout dial or caliper)

Reasons for refinishing/"turning" rotors:
- Pad deposits
- Glazing
- Pitting
- Grooves & ridges
- For the hell of it

To be honest, I'm a heavy braker. You best believe me that when I brake, **** better make an attempt to break through the windshield. I've replaced the rotors on my 5th gen once, because I warped them. I've never replaced them on the 6ga in the 36k miles I've had it, changed the pads once and the rotors are original, I think, never even have had them refinished. While working on the brakes you should be examining things that may be worn and replace them as necessary; bushings, slide pins, ball joints, rotors, etc.

Everyone is saying your throwing away money NOT replacing the rotors each time... using OEM parts that nearing $300-350 each time, or $200 using el cheapo parts. That's almost like saying instead of pressing the caliper piston back in you should just get new calipers. Fawk that ****.

Can anyone give me a real reason to go along with your suggestions?

finch13 said:

Everyone is saying your throwing away money NOT replacing the rotors each time... using OEM parts that nearing $300-350 each time, or $200 using el cheapo parts. That's almost like saying instead of pressing the caliper piston back in you should just get new calipers. Fawk that ****.

Can anyone give me a real reason to go along with your suggestions?

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i could do new pads and rotors on the whole car for right around $100 and thats with the "mid" level parts (wagner thermoquiet pads, cheap rotors). in fact...i have done it good stopping power, low dust, low noise. people need to replace their fluid and bleed the system well...that's how you get "good" brakes imo.

getting new (or turned rotors...for whatever reason) just makes sense since youre starting with new stuff all around. what if the new pads wear unevenly? they will, since the rotor is already grooved from use. anywhere the pads don't sit parallel to the rotor is a reduction in efficiency.

and taking the brakes apart to deglaze the pads and rotors...who wants to mess around with that? ive taken mine apart enough, and i have to yet again. i had to deglaze one front corner since it was making a "scraping" sound when the pedal was down, and then i put new stuff in the front and they've been fine for the last 2 years.

the rear drivers side has developed a "chhh chhhh" sound that comes and goes. the rears are 3 years old without having been touched since install.

time vs money...this is one of those times when i'll spend a little more not to dick around later...plus it would be like changing a timing belt and not doing the water pump/tensioner. do everything you can while your stuff's apart...

I never knew changing brake pads was intense. Haha. There's five pages of questions and answers here about brake pads... I thought brakes were common sense...

RickyG said:

I never knew changing brake pads was intense. Haha. There's five pages of questions and answers here about brake pads... I thought brakes were common sense...

Click to expand...

x2 lol and thx branndon. good info bro.

ryan s said:

i could do new pads and rotors on the whole car for right around $100 and thats with the "mid" level parts (wagner thermoquiet pads, cheap rotors). in fact...i have done it good stopping power, low dust, low noise. people need to replace their fluid and bleed the system well...that's how you get "good" brakes imo.

getting new (or turned rotors...for whatever reason) just makes sense since youre starting with new stuff all around. what if the new pads wear unevenly? they will, since the rotor is already grooved from use. anywhere the pads don't sit parallel to the rotor is a reduction in efficiency.

and taking the brakes apart to deglaze the pads and rotors...who wants to mess around with that? ive taken mine apart enough, and i have to yet again. i had to deglaze one front corner since it was making a "scraping" sound when the pedal was down, and then i put new stuff in the front and they've been fine for the last 2 years.

the rear drivers side has developed a "chhh chhhh" sound that comes and goes. the rears are 3 years old without having been touched since install.

time vs money...this is one of those times when i'll spend a little more not to dick around later...plus it would be like changing a timing belt and not doing the water pump/tensioner. do everything you can while your stuff's apart...

Click to expand...

I don't think your comparisons are very accurate... water pump vs. rotors

I never said it wasn't a good idea to replace/resurface them while everything is apart, I'm just saying it's not 100% necessary. I know a lot of people that get their brakes done and develop weird sounds or vibrations and I can honestly say I've never had that issue when I've worked on them.

Finchy's Helpful Tip of the Day: Use an angle grinder or file on the pad tabs if they don't slide smoothly within the caliper. Grease where the caliper contacts the pad and the slide pins and you likely won't get any squeals.

huh dont use a c clamp to press the piston if you have ABS never heard of this and i have been doing this for 6 yrs you can use a c clamp i ussly use my hands to press it in or they have a tool that cost like 5 bucks to press it in and also you should change the rotors if you do the pads you will get uneven were on the pads if the rotors are off and premature were if you do this i sugest getting some cheepo pads cause you put new rotors on you will feel a hesitation if use use the old pads but you can use anything on the piston as long as it is pressed in and for good pads get WAGNER THERMO QUIETS GREAT PADS LESS DUST AND GOOD STOPING POWER