98 Accord hits top end at 4000rpm

I got a 98 Accord with a 2.3 vtec. I race it in 150-200 lap enduro races.
My problem is that after it gets up to operating temp it seems like it hits the rev limiter at 4000 rpm. I have changed the Dist. but it still does it.
I thought it was a low oil pressure issue but I just had it idling in my drive way and it does it. I took it to Autozone for a free scan, all they came up with is an O2 sensor, but it was not acting up at that time. Another issue is ocationally it dont start. It turns over fine but dont start. I have disconnected the battery when this happens and later connected it and it started right up.
Any Help?
John

No Check engine light on? I'd say low oil. Change your oil if you haven't. This happened to me when my light came on. Wouldn't rev past 4k, it basically disabled VTEC.

Know that in park when the car is sitting still, the car won't rev to redline.

Thanks, I will change the oil. Is there a way to disable the check engine light?
We use this for racing but it is a stock engine, its disposable or rebuildable.
We just need to finish the race.
John

Did you mess with the wiring at all to meet track rules? No VSS or tach signal will cause the ECU to hit the limiter for no reason. Check the vss connector on the tranny and clean the connector out

Forgot to mention can I hotwire the vtec to a switch, so its hot while racing?
John
P.S. Its a 5-speed. Does that matter?

finch13 said:

Did you mess with the wiring at all to meet track rules? No VSS or tach signal will cause the ECU to hit the limiter for no reason. Check the vss connector on the tranny and clean the connector out

Click to expand...

I dont think any wiring was alterd. What is the VSS and where on the trans is it? The a/c is removed as well as the center dash(radio, heater controlls etc.)
All being unpluged
John

is that the blue coupe that was on craigslist a while ago? lol

you ever race in the dells?

In my engine it was proven over and over again that when I hit VTEC my car tends to burn up some oil probrably do to abusing the seals. I don't know if thats the case for you, but it is for me. After I would run a couple times through a mountain track my car would start running lean and my car would start acting funny, hitting the rev early, and a lot times would fuel cut itself around 4k RPMs. Thats my story. I road course race.

If your racing, why the hell would you need an O2 sensor anyways? do straight exhaust 2.25inch. Put a O2 defouler where the o2 sensor is supposed to be and screw the o2 sensor into the defouler. They are like 40 bucks.


Make sure your car is receiving adequate spark. Use a multimeter and test for resistance on your wires, test your relays and make sure your battery is well grounded and not corroded at the chassis.


Also, your throttle position sensor and your engine coolant sensor both work together. ECT detects your engine coolant temp and adjusts your fuel ratio in sync with your TPS sensor.


These engines were not designed for racing, so its possible you need to do some tweaking to the ECU so you can run the car hard for very long periods. I would start with whats easier and cheaper, then work my way down.

the dust devils (2.0L max displacement) require full exhaust, but i think cat-less. only the dedicated race cars like the sprint cars and late models don't need mufflers...so tube chassis cars. just the rules up here