Euro R CL-1 SWAP

FunnyVictor86 · Jan 13, 2010

Re: Euro R CL-1 ECU

ok so i tried it again and the motor cranks over but it does not start ... but the immobilizer key icon does not flash ... so it's safe to say that like glassjaw stated, euro r's do not have immobilizers

so then my theory is that if i were to use the euro r ecu, the euro r wiring harness, and of course the euro r motor ... it should start up without any issues ... or am i being overly optimistic lol

dreman · Jan 14, 2010

I thought Euro R ECU's did have an immobilizer. Read post #72 and #83 of the next page. It's not a euro R ecu but it's from a F20B SIR-T obd2. I was thinking for sure the Euro R was the same not 100% positive though. Your best bet is running a USDM P13-A12 ecu if your staying obd2 that's what me and Drift had to do.

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5454&highlight=h22+auto&page=8

FunnyVictor86 · Jan 14, 2010

yea i might just have to do that if i cant run the euro r ... it's the only thing holding me back from the swap, that and the fact that this is my daily :eusa_wall:

GlassJAw · Feb 9, 2010

I would run the USDM ECU just for the simple fact that it wont have the stupid Hesitation / Surge problem that all Euro R / F20B's suffer from!!
Hope its moving forward for you??

lithiumus · Feb 9, 2010

The reason that your ECU is not firing up is because there is a pinout difference when you plug an immobilizer ECU vs. a non-immobilizer ECU. The pinout difference is the fuel Pump relay which is why your car is not firing up

I ran into this problem when I wast testing JDM ECUs.

USDM uses pin A15 to activate the fuel pump relay (immobilizer)
JDM users pin A16 to activate the fuel pump relay

If you have some experience with the OBD connectors, you can simply pull the pin out of the A15 connector and move it to A16. Of course when you do that, the USDM ECU won't work so you'll have to swap pins based on the ECU.

Make sure you have a good mini screw driver set to help you release the pin from the connector.

FunnyVictor86 · Feb 9, 2010

lithiumus said:
The reason that your ECU is not firing up is because there is a pinout difference when you plug an immobilizer ECU vs. a non-immobilizer ECU. The pinout difference is the fuel Pump relay which is why your car is not firing up

I ran into this problem when I wast testing JDM ECUs.

USDM uses pin A15 to activate the fuel pump relay (immobilizer)
JDM users pin A16 to activate the fuel pump relay

If you have some experience with the OBD connectors, you can simply pull the pin out of the A15 connector and move it to A16. Of course when you do that, the USDM ECU won't work so you'll have to swap pins based on the ECU.

Make sure you have a good mini screw driver set to help you release the pin from the connector.

thank you lithiumus ... well i'll try it out as soon as i get started ... i'm still looking for another car to make my daily driver since this is my only car at the moment ... i've been looking for a 1991'ish 240sx but ever since drifting became popular here everyone wants too much for them :eusa_wall:

ryan s · Feb 9, 2010

daily beater = 90-93 accord...all the way. sooo many for sale for less than $2k.

GlassJAw · Feb 10, 2010

Sorry to thread jack a little here Victor, but after looking at the wiring diagrams I noticed that a JDM EK9 (Type R) ECU is also an OBD2B item. Would this work in my Euro R with the fuel maps tuned via say an Apexi VAFC or the likes??

I really want to rid myself of this dreaded Hesitation / Bogging problem
(which no doubt you will encounter soon enough when you install the Euro R!!)

lithiumus · Feb 11, 2010

GlassJAw said:
Sorry to thread jack a little here Victor, but after looking at the wiring diagrams I noticed that a JDM EK9 (Type R) ECU is also an OBD2B item. Would this work in my Euro R with the fuel maps tuned via say an Apexi VAFC or the likes??

I really want to rid myself of this dreaded Hesitation / Bogging problem
(which no doubt you will encounter soon enough when you install the Euro R!!)

Well the connectors are similar OBD2B but the EK9 is a B series motor so I'm thinking that there will be a lot of adjustments and tuning to make it work right. Are you sure the hesitation that you are experiencing is a "known" and "common" issue and not something wrong with your O2 sensors or possibly pinout issues? It sounds serious enough to be not normal...

EmMinODaGreaT · Feb 11, 2010

You need to use your wiring harness, in the car and modify it accordingly.

Euro R CL-1 SWAP

FunnyVictor86

Well-Known Member

dreman

H22-5spd Swapped CG5

FunnyVictor86

Well-Known Member

GlassJAw

Well-Known Member

lithiumus

Well-Known Member

FunnyVictor86

Well-Known Member

ryan s

they dont think it

GlassJAw

Well-Known Member

lithiumus

Well-Known Member

EmMinODaGreaT

Well-Known Member

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