Bond4387
Well-Known Member
lol +5457123486
Diy: Cold Cathode rear L plate
- Thread starter CG6Lemon
- Start date
lol +5457123486
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
Bond4387
Well-Known Member
Yay
F23AJDM
Well-Known Member
how is there more than one way to connect the positive and negative spliced ends...there is nothing different about this other than the pictures.
There might not be anything different in regards to connecting positive and negative ends. but it is the way ppl approached it. I did not splice my ends i just clipped them and attached them to the cars wiring, plug and play.
kevinbo03
Rollin' OEM style
I wrote the other guide on this last winter/spring, pretty much the same (See sig).
For those talking about ways to pull power, I found that mouser electronics actually sells a female connector with pins pre-soldered in, so you could make it very easy to install and go back to stock. Unfortunately I found these after I had stopped making the kits I was selling, which used wedge bulb connectors that plugged into the stock bulb socket.
The way younglemon wired it would work fine as long as it was wrapped/heatshrinked, the paint inside the trunk lid is very thin so you could short easily and blow the fuse (10amp on passenger's side I believe).
I don't remember the part number, but I measured the dimensions and it would be a perfect fit. I would look through it again to find it, but the catalog is *literally* 2200+ pages and %95 8-point font, so searching for it would take ages. Anyone who wishes to attempt this can get the catalog for free from their website however.
I think that weight is so the trunklid opens properly, intended for the remote trunk option on EX's.
As for the seal, there is a think foam gasket on the OEM lamp, so the wires that come out still allow for a good seal. I wash my accord 2-3 times a month and have had my cathodes in for around 8 months with no issues.
I did this when I was selling cathode license plate kits, it works well. The only issue is that the bulb socket is inside the clear plastic shell, and you have to have the cables from the connector squeeze back through so they can get inside the trunk to connect to the cathode inverters. It's certainly a good idea though, I also used it as a good place to include diodes to prevent reverse current or shorts from improper polarity, which is much easier when using a wedge socket since they can fit either way. Anyone wsihing to use this method can buy the socket connectors here:
http://autolumination.com/194.htm
they are the second item from the bottom. I recommend hot glue to secure some small (20-22g) wire in the socket and out through the bottom. solder first, then insert, then glue and bend, snipping excess if necessary.
Water is not an issue, the actual cathodes are fairly well sealed, and not effected by water regardless, as only one polarity is exposed (thin metal wire running along the length of the actual cathode tube. If the inverters get wet, then you are in trouble, and they will blow for sure. they sit inside the trunklid through, high and dry.
For those talking about ways to pull power, I found that mouser electronics actually sells a female connector with pins pre-soldered in, so you could make it very easy to install and go back to stock. Unfortunately I found these after I had stopped making the kits I was selling, which used wedge bulb connectors that plugged into the stock bulb socket.
The way younglemon wired it would work fine as long as it was wrapped/heatshrinked, the paint inside the trunk lid is very thin so you could short easily and blow the fuse (10amp on passenger's side I believe).
I don't remember the part number, but I measured the dimensions and it would be a perfect fit. I would look through it again to find it, but the catalog is *literally* 2200+ pages and %95 8-point font, so searching for it would take ages. Anyone who wishes to attempt this can get the catalog for free from their website however.
I think that weight is so the trunklid opens properly, intended for the remote trunk option on EX's.
As for the seal, there is a think foam gasket on the OEM lamp, so the wires that come out still allow for a good seal. I wash my accord 2-3 times a month and have had my cathodes in for around 8 months with no issues.
I did this when I was selling cathode license plate kits, it works well. The only issue is that the bulb socket is inside the clear plastic shell, and you have to have the cables from the connector squeeze back through so they can get inside the trunk to connect to the cathode inverters. It's certainly a good idea though, I also used it as a good place to include diodes to prevent reverse current or shorts from improper polarity, which is much easier when using a wedge socket since they can fit either way. Anyone wsihing to use this method can buy the socket connectors here:
http://autolumination.com/194.htm
they are the second item from the bottom. I recommend hot glue to secure some small (20-22g) wire in the socket and out through the bottom. solder first, then insert, then glue and bend, snipping excess if necessary.
Water is not an issue, the actual cathodes are fairly well sealed, and not effected by water regardless, as only one polarity is exposed (thin metal wire running along the length of the actual cathode tube. If the inverters get wet, then you are in trouble, and they will blow for sure. they sit inside the trunklid through, high and dry.
Last edited:
stanleybb50
Well-Known Member
What about this?
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/...hite-LED/2-HID-WHITE-HIGH-POWER-p4481133.html
I think im concerned about how bright the cathodes can/will be.. (is it too bright?)
the guys here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=352873 were talking about it them
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/...hite-LED/2-HID-WHITE-HIGH-POWER-p4481133.html
I think im concerned about how bright the cathodes can/will be.. (is it too bright?)
the guys here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=352873 were talking about it them
Badook
Well-Known Member
Those work ok, they have a 120 deg veiwing angle which is plenty for licence plate lights but that one tends to get pretty hot.
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/...ite-LED/2-HID-WHITE-SMT-X5-HIGH-p6478377.html
I went with these, plenty of light and it acts like the standard bulb but 200 times brighter. I started with them in my map lights and when turned on its like the sun. Ive been running them for over a year with no problems.
