BlkCurrantKord
Super Moderator
We'll try it...
*Edited - lets see how long it takes before someone asks.
*Edited - lets see how long it takes before someone asks.
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DIY- LX 5 Lug and Rear Disc Swap
- Thread starter BlkCurrantKord
- Start date
EscoStylez
Well-Known Member
nice
Last edited:
99HonAccord
Well-Known Member
I'm doing the conversion, I have the REAR hub and bearing(which are pressed in together from honda) will I need to PRESS the old hub/bearing out the knuckle or is it being held with bolts ?
bagoon316
Well-Known Member
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s8201_b1910.png
not sure if that pic worked, but it looks like its held on with that spindle/axle nut. should just slide on/off imo.
not sure if that pic worked, but it looks like its held on with that spindle/axle nut. should just slide on/off imo.
This thread is awesome. I just read every page since I am helping my buddy do his 5 lug swap (slowrider87).
Man I wish the 5 lug swap was this easy for the 5th gen.
One question:
On the 5th gen the rear 36mm nut that holds the hub/bearing assembly to the stub shaft is usually a problem for us.
This is due to the 97-01 Prelude rear hub/bearings being wider than the OEM Accord hub bearings. Therefore since the hub/bearing assy. takes more space on the stub shaft so that the nut has less thread to hold on the hub/bearing.
Our options are:
1. Just stake it and hope for the best (what I did and have no problem with).
2. Buy a thinner aftermarket 36mm stub shaft nut.
3. The most legit way: swapping the stub shaft from another car (can't remember which one).
My question is:
Do you guys have to deal with this "hassle?"
Its held on with a 36mm nut.
HOWEVER, you might need access to a rotary cutoff tool (dremel with LOTS of cutting blades, rotozip, aircutoff, etc..) to notch the inner race of the old bearing which will most likely be stuck on the stub shaft.
Man I wish the 5 lug swap was this easy for the 5th gen.
One question:
On the 5th gen the rear 36mm nut that holds the hub/bearing assembly to the stub shaft is usually a problem for us.
This is due to the 97-01 Prelude rear hub/bearings being wider than the OEM Accord hub bearings. Therefore since the hub/bearing assy. takes more space on the stub shaft so that the nut has less thread to hold on the hub/bearing.
Our options are:
1. Just stake it and hope for the best (what I did and have no problem with).
2. Buy a thinner aftermarket 36mm stub shaft nut.
3. The most legit way: swapping the stub shaft from another car (can't remember which one).
My question is:
Do you guys have to deal with this "hassle?"
Its held on with a 36mm nut.
HOWEVER, you might need access to a rotary cutoff tool (dremel with LOTS of cutting blades, rotozip, aircutoff, etc..) to notch the inner race of the old bearing which will most likely be stuck on the stub shaft.
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BlkCurrantKord
Super Moderator
nope, don't have that problem
BlackieCG6
Well-Known Member
Just received my russell steel braided lines from summit, however i thought it was a "whole kit" all the brake lines not just the lines connecting to the calipers.
Does anyone sell a complete set or sure I be good with this ? searched online & only find the same stuff
This is a link to what TASAUTO sells still doesnt look like a complete kit
http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=570160&d=1270&p=2
Does anyone sell a complete set or sure I be good with this ? searched online & only find the same stuff
This is a link to what TASAUTO sells still doesnt look like a complete kit
http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=570160&d=1270&p=2
Sketch o5
Señor Greengo
the lines connecting to the calipers is the complete kit. everything else is already hard lines.
BlackieCG6
Well-Known Member
Ok, last question then whats the extra 2 lines i see in tasauto kit compared to russell kit
Sketch o5
Señor Greengo
i really dont know, haha, i do know that you probably dont need them, and thats probably not even the exact picture of the product youd get. they show the same picture for the i4 with rear drums, and i know the rear drum lines are different from the rear disc, so im pretty sure what youd get isnt that.
either way, what you have now is fine. thats a full kit.
either way, what you have now is fine. thats a full kit.
