G23 Build

akoutmos

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Got the head back from the machine shop. Looks like they did a pretty good job. The extra oil drain back holes on the H22 head were plugged with aluminium slugs.

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All the gaskets have come in and so has the crank timing cog and the h22 timing belt. I just need like 2-3 days of solid work and this motor should be up and running.
 

akoutmos

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Head has been installed on the block and torqued down. Making some good progress. Now time to work on the VTEC wiring and other little things.

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AFAccord

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G23 na or boost will be a beast no matter what.

With 8.4 compression, how long do you intend to run this setup? I second the vote for K20 pistons. OEM K20a2 would put you at 11.5, and would be a great candidate for type-S cams, shot peened F23 rods, RDX injectors and a Euro-R manifold.
 

akoutmos

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With 8.4 compression, how long do you intend to run this setup? I second the vote for K20 pistons. OEM K20a2 would put you at 11.5, and would be a great candidate for type-S cams, shot peened F23 rods, RDX injectors and a Euro-R manifold.

I'm just gonna rock this for a while and make sure that the motor runs, and what i have built is reliable. After that it's still a toss up for boost or NA. I'm torn between the two :/
 

Steadycrusin401

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Nice, it's coming along great. I wonder how much whp this would make with low compression. My eyes are still on this build thread. Again good progress mang.
 

akoutmos

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To be honest, didn't even look into it lol. I'll take a look when i work on it again to see what the casting marking is.
 

akoutmos

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I'm waiting on this tool to come in. Can't get the crank pulley bolt off :/ http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Harmoni...words=Damper+Holding+Tool+for+Acura+and+Honda

IMPORTANT QUESTION:
To anyone that has studed their F23 block. I'm guessing you used the H23 stud kit since you wanted to use the F23 head and the middle stud hole has a high seat in the F23 head casting. But since the H22 head doesn't have this high seat, i used an H22 head stud kit. But the most forward driver side stud wouldn't sit flush with the other studs (take a look at the pic). I don't think it will be a huge issue given that the stud nut was mostly on threads....but the bottom of the nut did have a little bit of a gap. I'm not super concerned just curious if anyone else had an iss with that.

TL;DR: For anyone that studed their F23, did the most forward driver side bolt stick up more than the others?
 
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greekpizza

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I'm waiting on this tool to come in. Can't get the crank pulley bolt off :/ http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Harmoni...words=Damper+Holding+Tool+for+Acura+and+Honda

IMPORTANT QUESTION:
To anyone that has studed their F23 block. I'm guessing you used the H23 stud kit since you wanted to use the F23 head and the middle stud hole has a high seat in the F23 head casting. But since the H22 head doesn't have this high seat, i used an H22 head stud kit. But the most forward driver side stud wouldn't sit flush with the other studs (take a look at the pic). I don't think it will be a huge issue given that the stud nut was mostly on threads....but the bottom of the nut did have a little bit of a gap. I'm not super concerned just curious if anyone else had an iss with that.

TL;DR: For anyone that studed their F23, did the most forward driver side bolt stick up more than the others?

Mine did not. all were level except the rear middle which had a longer stud as you said.
 

akoutmos

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Maybe the F23A5 has a different casting than the VTEC F's??

I measured the depth of the hole with a caliper and it was indeed shallower than the other holes....so no cross-threading or gunk in the hole.
 
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