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  #11  
Old 10-19-2017, 02:23 AM
T.$.Racing T.$.Racing is offline
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Re: Million mile club

Originally Posted by datechboss101 View Post
Well, its been my moms and now its in my hands, so clearly it will see roughly 20k-30k miles per years or something like that... while my mom had it, it saw like maybe 5k per year at one point it saw 1k miles per year. And i may end up doing a 6MT swap if possible and if the motor throws a rod, im converting it into a H22A1 motor.

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That's what I mean. A million miles is just a crazy amount of mileage to accumulate. 30k miles for 20 years is still only 600,000 miles.....

I would just go 5 speed, keep it simple and its tried and true with the engine. You'll gain absolutely nothing with the extra gear. Just doesn't have the power band or power to warrant it lol. You won't have to worry about the bottom end long as you keep oil in it
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2017, 05:55 PM
datechboss101 datechboss101 is offline
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Re: Million mile club

Originally Posted by T.$.Racing View Post
That's what I mean. A million miles is just a crazy amount of mileage to accumulate. 30k miles for 20 years is still only 600,000 miles.....

I would just go 5 speed, keep it simple and its tried and true with the engine. You'll gain absolutely nothing with the extra gear. Just doesn't have the power band or power to warrant it lol. You won't have to worry about the bottom end long as you keep oil in it
Car doesn't leak oil at all, and the oil levels are where it is supposed to be, between the min and max marks. Plus, I just got tint on her.
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  #13  
Old 10-22-2017, 01:19 AM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

Originally Posted by datechboss101 View Post
And i may end up doing a 6MT swap if possible and if the motor throws a rod, im converting it into a H22A1 motor.

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Don't waste your time doing a 6MT swap, UNLESS you're doing a K series or V6 swap. The reason why is that the 6 speed MT is a regular rotation engine, versus the F, or H series' reverse rotation engine (same applies to the "B" series engine all the Civic guys want. You'd literally have to redesign the entire trans (1 off) to make it work with an F or H engine. Just a heads up.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #14  
Old 10-22-2017, 08:10 AM
datechboss101 datechboss101 is offline
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Re: Million mile club

Originally Posted by Rusty Accord View Post
Don't waste your time doing a 6MT swap, UNLESS you're doing a K series or V6 swap. The reason why is that the 6 speed MT is a regular rotation engine, versus the F, or H series' reverse rotation engine (same applies to the "B" series engine all the Civic guys want. You'd literally have to redesign the entire trans (1 off) to make it work with an F or H engine. Just a heads up.
So a 5MT is better for the F23 and H22 engine?

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  #15  
Old 10-23-2017, 12:17 AM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

Originally Posted by datechboss101 View Post
So a 5MT is better for the F23 and H22 engine?

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Yes. The 5 speed MY bolts right up to either engine.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #16  
Old 10-23-2017, 12:52 AM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

I read thru your thread over on DriveAccord. I'm not a member there though, so I can't post any replies to your thread there.

My suggestion would be for you to pull the front spindles off, and swap them for a set of V6 5 lug spindles up front. Now you didn't mention whether or not you have drums or discs in the rear, but if you have discs, then it's just a matter of swapping the rear hubs and rotors for 5 lug parts. BUT, if you have drums in the rear, you're looking at swapping the entire rear hub assembly/rear spindle assembly (bolts to all of the arms) for 1 out of either a 4 cylinder with discs, or a V6 car. You'll also want the e-brake cables as well, as they are different from drum brake parts.

I only suggest you doing this, since you want to convert your car to 5 lug, so you can get the rims of your choice , and I'd buy them and the tires before you started working on doing the conversion too.

Right now I'm in the middle of rebuilding the front suspension of my 99 Accord, and I can tell you first hand that doing the hubs and bearings are a big royal PIA type of job. My biggest problem was getting the hubs off. I rented a tool from the Zone, and I wrestled with it for over an hour before I finally got it to start to come off, and it took another half hour before it finally did. The other side would budge and after 2 hours I said screw it, and returned the tool. I then used an improvised tool I made up, and had that hub off in 10 minutes. :O It took me a while but I did eventually get the snap ring out, so I could press the hub bearings out. That's where I'm at with my own car, and I'm keeping it 4 lug.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles

Last edited by Rusty Accord; 10-23-2017 at 01:02 AM.
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  #17  
Old 10-23-2017, 07:09 PM
datechboss101 datechboss101 is offline
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Re: Million mile club

Originally Posted by Rusty Accord View Post
I read thru your thread over on DriveAccord. I'm not a member there though, so I can't post any replies to your thread there.

My suggestion would be for you to pull the front spindles off, and swap them for a set of V6 5 lug spindles up front. Now you didn't mention whether or not you have drums or discs in the rear, but if you have discs, then it's just a matter of swapping the rear hubs and rotors for 5 lug parts. BUT, if you have drums in the rear, you're looking at swapping the entire rear hub assembly/rear spindle assembly (bolts to all of the arms) for 1 out of either a 4 cylinder with discs, or a V6 car. You'll also want the e-brake cables as well, as they are different from drum brake parts.

I only suggest you doing this, since you want to convert your car to 5 lug, so you can get the rims of your choice , and I'd buy them and the tires before you started working on doing the conversion too.

Right now I'm in the middle of rebuilding the front suspension of my 99 Accord, and I can tell you first hand that doing the hubs and bearings are a big royal PIA type of job. My biggest problem was getting the hubs off. I rented a tool from the Zone, and I wrestled with it for over an hour before I finally got it to start to come off, and it took another half hour before it finally did. The other side would budge and after 2 hours I said screw it, and returned the tool. I then used an improvised tool I made up, and had that hub off in 10 minutes. :O It took me a while but I did eventually get the snap ring out, so I could press the hub bearings out. That's where I'm at with my own car, and I'm keeping it 4 lug.
I have drums on the rears and discs on the fronts, as the car is literally 99% stock (the 1% not stock is the right CV Axle, Window Tint, and audio system). Plus, I have to do the wheel bearings soon, since the steering wheel is like couple degrees off center, as it is scary as hell to drive the car over 60 MPH on interstates and turnpike, in this condition. Also, I cannot afford any car payments for the next decade or so. I was told by another CG owner that lives close to me, that I should check STR wheels out, as they come in the 4 x 114.3 lug nut pattern. And also, I am now considering the HFP rims that comes on for the 2018 Honda Fit, as those are also 4 x 114.3 lug pattern.

Last edited by datechboss101; 10-23-2017 at 07:11 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-24-2017, 01:49 AM
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Nam1911a1 Nam1911a1 is offline
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Re: Million mile club

I recently rebuilt the front end with new UCAs, end links, and outer tie rods. One front wheel bearing was shot and howling at me for months. The front driver cv axle was replaced after it ripped out of the boot. The rest of the car is completely stock for a 98 with 220,000 miles. I said fuggit to replacing the water or oil pump when I did the timing belt At 213,000 miles. The pumps felt nice and tight and the bearings were in great shape. I'll change them out when I rebuild/reseal the motor in the next year or so. It burns just a bit of oil but nothing to go crazy about. The car still gets 27+Mpg highway and pulls strong.

I really want to clean the intake manifold because it looks like a damn bat cave with guano all over the walls from looking through the throttle body.

I'm planning on driving this car for the next 10-20 years and just driving got work round trip I'll be putting 17,000 plus miles a year. Most of it cruising at 70-80mpg.

If I make it to 500,000 miles I'll be happy
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  #19  
Old 10-25-2017, 02:33 AM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

Originally Posted by Nam1911a1 View Post
I recently rebuilt the front end with new UCAs, end links, and outer tie rods. One front wheel bearing was shot and howling at me for months. The front driver cv axle was replaced after it ripped out of the boot. The rest of the car is completely stock for a 98 with 220,000 miles. I said fuggit to replacing the water or oil pump when I did the timing belt At 213,000 miles. The pumps felt nice and tight and the bearings were in great shape. I'll change them out when I rebuild/reseal the motor in the next year or so. It burns just a bit of oil but nothing to go crazy about. The car still gets 27+Mpg highway and pulls strong.

I really want to clean the intake manifold because it looks like a damn bat cave with guano all over the walls from looking through the throttle body.

I'm planning on driving this car for the next 10-20 years and just driving got work round trip I'll be putting 17,000 plus miles a year. Most of it cruising at 70-80mpg.

If I make it to 500,000 miles I'll be happy
Yup, I just got done rebuilding the front of mine. It got new hub bearings (NTN brand from Rock Auto), Upper Control Arms with new upper ball joints, and lower ball joints, and tie rod ends (all from Detroit Axle), along with new Brembo (in a Raybestos box) off e-bay, as well as a set of Wagner Ceramic brake pads (also from e-bay, but from the other side of the state). Less than a 1,000 miles ago it got MOOG sway bar end links and bushings for both the front and rear ends of the car. I don't know how long ago, or what brand the drive axles are, as they were done before I bought the car. But the parts I put on yesterday really made a difference in how the car drives, and how much more quiet it is. Most of what was done was needed, but at 233,000 miles, it doesn't surprise me. I do plan on keeping my 99 Accord LX for as long as I can, after all, I just put on a really nice stainless steel Magnaflow cat and cat back exhaust system, and replaced the rusted out fuel tank this past spring. Some of the pics can be seen in my build thread.
I should mention that the car ran great prior to the front end rebuild, and other than the howling hub bearings drove great even at speeds above 80. In fact 1 of the 2 freeways near me has a 75mph speed limit, so you know you need everything good mechanically.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles

Last edited by Rusty Accord; 10-25-2017 at 02:38 AM.
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  #20  
Old 10-25-2017, 07:10 AM
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Re: Million mile club

Lol I used Detroit for the front end besides the moog lower ball joints
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