Aftermarket Alternator Problems

I've recently swapped a 40k mile jdm f23a1 engine into my accord and did an alternator upgrade just for a boost in power for the mods i plan on adding in the future. I just need to see if anyone else is running into the problems I am running into.

I just upgraded to a load boss 170amp alternator and the alternator is great except for the fact that the pulley is smaller on it to generate more amperage at higher rpms but on the downside i think its also not generating enough voltage at lower rpms and causing all my door ajar, battery, and brake light to come on when i come to a stop or at slow speeds. Any suggestions? Would a battery upgrade fix this? Before I spend close to 200 on a yellowtop deep cycle optima I wanna make sure this will fix my problem. Any suggestions?

Gear:
170amp Load Boss Alternator with 4 Gauge wire straight to battery.
Oreilly store brand battery. (Assuming this is the problem)
2.3L 4CYL VTEC F23A1

PS: I thought I was leaving the accord family a while back but I'm hanging in there and keeping my ride running. Need all the help I can get!

HO alts are known for sacrificing volts for amps, and this is what is happening. Under 833 rpm's, you are putting out less than 13v which will make the lights dim. All you need to do is adjust your idle up to compensate. I run mine at 950, with a 100 amp draw from my amplifiers, with no issues. Changing batteries will do nothing if you don't adjust your idle.

About to upgrade all my grounds and alternator power to 1/0 gauge with new battery terminals and rings. So engine idle is the only thing I can do?

i honestly would swap the pulley back to the recommended pulley size because running a significantly smaller pulley would either over work your alternator (causing it to put out more power than its rated then would eventually burn out) or you will have fluctuating amp readings (which you are having now)

If it was anything like my boss 160 alt i had,It was bad.brand new alt already bad..Everytime i stopped at idle.my battery light,door,trunk lights came on ect.
I would have that alt checked. I went aheand and returned the 200$ alt and went through work and got me a 70$ napa one.been fine ever since..I have an optima redtop.holds a good stable 13.7/8 v.

Just go back to the original pulley size. The smaller one isn't going to work...and like nyknick said, you might not only have fluctuating amps, you might eventually burn out your alternator altogether.

Why the hell would the makers of the load boss alternator put the pulley on there and say its a direct factory replacement with no mods then? So what I'm gathering from what you guys are saying is its more than likely the pulley on it. Wouldn't they know that they're putting a smaller pulley on it and design the alternator to meet that specification?

Just ordered a yellowtop battery and platinum plated bat terms and rings for the hell of it. Never hurts to have proper grounding. Going to also get 1/0 gauge wire and upgrade my stock grounds and power line from alt.

I'm gonna go ahead and ugprade my wires and upgrade to the yellowtop and if that doesn't fix the problem i'm gonna take my car up to alterstart for electrical testing. I live literally 15 minutes away from the people who make the load boss alterators and they'll get me straightened out.

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28575 this might be what you need to see