1998 Honda Accord Coupe

Hello everyone, I have been lurking on here for quite a while and thought id finally make an account. I have a black 1998 Accord lx coupe 5MT that I got about 4 years ago when I was a Freshman in High School. I'd say the car is in pretty good condition inside and out for its age, except for the peeling clear coat and I am the 3rd owner. Been working on modifying this car since I got it and have been inspired by many from this forum. I plan to keep you guys updated on what I do but it might be a little slow as school and work usually keeps me busy.

Current specs/mods
Engine/Transmission
Original F23A1 and trans with 162k miles on it
eBay Short Ram Intake

Exterior
eBay OEM style blacked out headlights
8000k 35w HID kit
Blacked out window trim with plasti dip
hood and trunk wrapped with 3M carbon fiber vinyl wrap (Done by previous owner but I kept it on as it looks better than the failed clear coat over these areas)
eBay "JDM" mesh grille
BaysonR OEM replica front lip, sideskirts, and rear lip

Suspension/wheels
Manzo lowering springs on factory struts (Very cheap, do not recommend. Had them for about 25-30k miles now. The ride is okay and the car is lowered about 2 inches but does not sit level.)
XXR 527s in Chromium Black 17x8.25 +25 on 205/50r17 tires
Muteki SR48 lug nuts

Interior/electronics
Tomei 70mm shift knob
Rockford Fosgate 6.5" door speakers and 6x9s for the rear
10" JBL sub in a ported box
2400w acoustic audio mono block amp
some pioneer head unit from the early 2000s

Future plans (In order of what I will most likely do first)
-new motor (piston rings are shot in this motor, smokes and burns ton of oil. I go through a 5qt container of oil about every week or so. I plan to get a new motor and put it in within the next few months, just waiting on the weather to warm up and saving up money that isn't going to school on parts)
-Clutch kit (the current clutch is fine but I will replace it while the motor is out. not sure yet if I want to stay with OEM or upgrade)
-Function and Form type 1 coilovers (a proper setup that will replace what I have now, seems to be pretty popular and I hear good things about them)
-rear disc brake swap (or possibly a 5 lug conversion, still researching what I need exactly and what I should buy new and what I can get from a junkyard)
-Morimoto H1 projector retrofit for my OEM headlights
-Repaint the whole car
-Leather interior swap
-Short shifter
-exhaust system
-Possibly new wheels, depends on if I stay 4 lug or not
-rebuild and turbo the current motor (For sure wont be any time soon, still have a lot to research and save for)

I will be posting pics when I figure out how to, hope to see you guys around here!

Welcome to the site sounds like you have a good start going, I think you have to post a certain amount before you can post up pics. But I could be wrong.

Welcome and holy crap your car burns the hell out of oil. You go through an oil change a week. I hope your not wasting money on high end oil.

At a consumption of a jug a week at say $12 a jug you are spending $624 roughly a year on a shot motor. Could you spend that money on a different better condition motor? Just food for thought.

I thought my Camry had a bad leak at a quart every two weeks but a jug a week is rediculous.

Also I pride myself in audio electronics. The vast majority of electronics have highly overinflated numbers because there is no regulation on how manufacturers rate things.

Take a look at ohms law.
P = E(voltage) x I(current)

At 2400 watts continuous(RMS as in real power not peak power which is meaningless) one is gong to draw over 200 amps of current.

Let's say your amp is 80% efficient which is really good for a class D amp.

2400 watts x 1.2 = 2880 watts usage
2880 watts / 14 volts (highly doubtful you can sustain this voltage) = 205amps

An easy way to calculate how much continuous power an amplifier can really output is to take the total fusing x your vehicles voltage at high demand.

So if your amp has 120 Amp fusing.

120amp x 12.8 realistic voltage at this demand = 1536 watts x .8 efficiency for a quality class d amp = 1228.8 watts

Sorry for the rant. It really bugs me about a lot of people claiming they are pushing X amount of watts when I see really cheap low end amps with high numbers printed on them.

Nam1911a1 said:

Welcome and holy crap your car burns the hell out of oil. You go through an oil change a week. I hope your not wasting money on high end oil.

At a consumption of a jug a week at say $12 a jug you are spending $624 roughly a year on a shot motor. Could you spend that money on a different better condition motor? Just food for thought.

I thought my Camry had a bad leak at a quart every two weeks but a jug a week is rediculous.

Also I pride myself in audio electronics. The vast majority of electronics have highly overinflated numbers because there is no regulation on how manufacturers rate things.

Take a look at ohms law.
P = E(voltage) x I(current)

At 2400 watts continuous(RMS as in real power not peak power which is meaningless) one is gong to draw over 200 amps of current.

Let's say your amp is 80% efficient which is really good for a class D amp.

2400 watts x 1.2 = 2880 watts usage
2880 watts / 14 volts (highly doubtful you can sustain this voltage) = 205amps

An easy way to calculate how much continuous power an amplifier can really output is to take the total fusing x your vehicles voltage at high demand.

So if your amp has 120 Amp fusing.

120amp x 12.8 realistic voltage at this demand = 1536 watts x .8 efficiency for a quality class d amp = 1228.8 watts

Sorry for the rant. It really bugs me about a lot of people claiming they are pushing X amount of watts when I see really cheap low end amps with high numbers printed on them.

Click to expand...

Oh don't worry I know that it is a ridiculous amount of oil and I have been using cheap stuff! I'm looking at getting a motor within this coming week so all I would have to do is find time to put it in.
Thank you for the info about the Amp though! To be honest I don't know too much about car audio and was just going by what it said on the side, its a cheap set up and not very quality.
I am looking at upgrading the setup to something better but I need to fix this engine issue before anything else haha

Welcome to the site, sounds like you have a good start on the car. I recommend using an image sharing site like Photobucket or Flickr to post photos, which you can do after 7 days.