Coolant bleeder screw?

simplicity

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#12 is the bleeder bolt


Interesting...#8 looks like the thermostat housing...is this diagram 4 cylinder or v6? I'm going to guess 4 cylinder...sounds like most people don't bleed the system after drain/fill/flush?

So from what I gather from folks this is my planned steps for this, please let me know if I skipped anything:

1. Turn temperature knob to hot (with car off).
2. Release drain bolt and drain coolant from radiator and empty out coolant reservoir. Remove radiator cap.
3. Replace drain bolt and coolant reservoir and fill with distilled water.
4. Turn car on. Turn heat on high.
5. With radiator cap still removed, add distilled water as needed.
6. Squeeze upper radiator hose to expel air.
7. Turn off car.
8. Repeat 2-7 until water is clear or clean enough.
9. Fill with Honda Type II coolant and turn on car again and fill in radiator as needed. Squeeze upper hose to expel air in process. Turn off car and replace the radiator cap.
10. Turn on car and check for any leaks.
11. Wait until car is cool and check the coolant levels again.
 

99CcordMTF23

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My Temp sensor in the housing was freaking out on me, Turns out there was trapped air in the housing (What the bleeder is for). I found In a manual for another vehicle, that the first couple times you fill with coolant you should open the bleeder until coolant strarts to come out. Onece its warmed up, crack it open (BE CAREFUL) a little, You should either get a Spit of coolant like when you bleed brakes, or air will come out. Hope this helps! BTW. leave the heater on.
 

simplicity

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Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I finally did this to the 4 cylinder this past weekend. However, I forgot some crucial steps and the car would shake/rough idle whenever I switched gears from P to R to N to D4, etc... I totally forgot to release the bleeder bolt and did not wait for the coolant to go down on the radiator neck before taking it out for a test drive (that's when the shaking happened and totally freaked me out). I went back and released the bleeder bolt until a stream of coolant came out. Tightened it. And then added more coolant and waited....added coolant..waited...for a while.....took it out for another test drive and noticed things were much better but I could still hear some gurgling noise when I shut off the engine...I left it overnight and checked the fluid level and it did not drop. Drove it today and it seemed fine.

Should I be worried that I messed up something when the shaking/rough idle was happening? My guess is either not enough coolant or air in the system, I just don't know why it only happens after i shift and not constantly.

BTW, I ordered Lisle LI24610 from Summit Racing afterwards for hopefully an easier way to refill this next time.
 

RedAccord02

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Damn 20 bucks for funnels... get the cheap 1 ones from auto zone and have a steady hand.
 

method5150

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I didn't have any problems when I replaced the coolant/timing belt/water pump. filled up radiator, opened bleeder screw, ran until hot, opened up bleeder again.... done deal. +:lolhitting:
 

FunnyVictor86

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Another thing I forgot to mention is to jack up the front end and put it on jack stands. It helps eliminate the majority of air bubbles/pockets in the cooling system.
 
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