New G23 Thread

^^ #3 Makes ZERO sense in my head. Unless there are a different # of teeth on the sensor withing the distributer vs the sensor at the crank, there is no reason to relocate (Which, BTW, I am almost 100% certain that there are the same #)

I am unsure of what you mean by the motor will "spin too fast". A little clarification would be great.

@ BadgerType:

#6: Underdrive crank pulleys have nothing to do with the timing belt. The accessory pulley is the one affect by installing an underdrive pulley. (The timing pulley and the accessory pulley are two different pulleys on the crank)

Okay, S-spec, have you tried a G23 swap or better yet a h22 in a obd2 accord? If not please keep your comments neutral an constructive. Iam not the E-battling type, but this is just getting ridculous. The OBD1 dizzy for the h22/23 has sensors that are not not located at the obd2 accord dizzy, if you dont relocate (wire) them to the dizzy, the dizzy will NOT work right, ive seen it happen. the Crank positioning sensor and TDC top dead center is must me located to the dizzy if using a obd2-1 H series dizzy, or your timing will be off as hell. I have had honda technicians concurr this, and iam currently doing this on my h22 swap that has successfully had startup, in which i hope to be finish by next week. Unless you have done whatever you are saying, then you dont have any idea. You mostly sit back and dissect posts to try to conjure a mistakes out of it, to gain some sort of forum gratification as if you were the sole source of information. Just too much wrong info out there huh.......riiiiight. Maybe we should ask you exactly what is needed for a full G23 Vtec or Non Vtec swap, or H22 swap since youve been working on one. C'mon, with your vast array of honda intellect we expect a writup within the hour.....

-Mike

LOL! There is no need to get defensive. I meant no offense. I was simply stating my mind.

You need to relax man. I have nothing to gain but the knowledge from readin ur posts. There is no need to be stuck up about it, all you had to do was post a link or state a source of some sort, and thats it. Is it really that difficult?

PS - I was editing my post as you posted yours.

There is also the fact that you can safely use an OBD1 ECU to control your engine without swapping over to an OBD1 Dizzy with the sensors inside.

This is what leads me to believe that the sensors do the same job, OBD1 or OBD2, regardless of their location. The problem arises when it comes down to OBD0, because it has a different number of teeth on the sensor.

But hey, I am just here to stir **** right?

I dont mean any offense nor am I stuck up to anyone, iam just calling it like I see it. Or better yet, "stating my mind". All i ask is that people research whatever they are going to post about before informing or criticizing. If anyone thinks they have a better method to whatever ive or anyone else has posted, by all means do whatever makes you happy. In the end its your motor and your build anyway not mine.

-I never said you had to run a obd1 dizzy with a obd1 ecu, in fact i was going to run a obd2 h22 dizzy on my g23 build with a obd1 ecu

Egi7 said:

I dont mean any offense nor am I stuck up to anyone, iam just calling it like I see it. Or better yet, "stating my mind". All i ask is that people research whatever they are going to post about before informing or criticizing. If anyone thinks they have a better method to whatever ive or anyone else has posted, by all means do whatever makes you happy. In the end its your motor and your build anyway not mine.

-I never said you had to run a obd1 dizzy with a obd1 ecu, in fact i was going to run a obd2 h22 dizzy on my g23 build with a obd1 ecu

Click to expand...

Thats not the point I was trying to make. My point being that you could run say a P28 ECU, which originally has its sensors in the corresponding dizzy, like the H23 does, on our cars, without using a dizzy with the sensors in the dizzy, and it would run fine. (implying the sensors give the same signal, meaning it has no effect like you say!!)

This was the primary reason I posted what I did in the first place. It just doesn't make sense to me. I don't see why the sensors don't do the same thing.

Can you provide a link or something of where you heard this info? And you still haven't explained what you mean by "the engine would spin too fast"...

EDIT: The reason you have to relocate the wires on the H22 swap is because there IS NO SENSOR on the crank on the H22...that kinda forces you to run the dizzy sensor.

You see my point exactly, i didnt get this from some site or hear it from Jim Bob. After researching the distrubutor conversion and looking at various schematics I went to talk to the neighboring Honda technicians who have had honda training and years experience dealing with all kinds of misc. issues. You go ahead an try your method, as I originally thought the same thing you did, if u go back an read my tread. But, iam not going to beat a dead horse any longer. If your dizzy isnt getting proper siganls from your TDC or CKP your timing will be considerably off causing the motor to either spin too fast (high) which can lead to other dangers, or throw a code, causing you not to rev past 3500 rpm.

Egi7 said:

You see my point exactly, i didnt get this from some site or hear it from Jim Bob. After researching the distrubutor conversion and looking at various schematics I went to talk to the neighboring Honda technicians who have had honda training and years experience dealing with all kinds of misc. issues. You go ahead an try your method, as I originally thought the same thing you did, if u go back an read my tread. But, iam not going to beat a dead horse any longer. If your dizzy isnt getting proper siganls from your TDC or CKP your timing will be considerably off causing the motor to either spin too fast (high) which can lead to other dangers, or throw a code, causing you not to rev past 3500 rpm.

Click to expand...

Which distributer conversion? And sorry man, but your dizzy doesn't get ANY signals. Your ECU does, which brings be back to my previous post. I have been told a million things by honda technicians, among the likes of SiR Heads don't fit on CRV blocks. Honda techs have years of experience diagnosing stock hondas. Not heavily modified, or even hybrid motors.

ANd you STILL haven't addressed what you said about the "engine spinning too fast"...

The obd1 ecu will look for the signals from the dizzy. Try an h22 swap, on an accord an you will see. I ONLY talk to honda techs who have built motors and are rigorously into aftermarket performance. Like I said you go ahead and do whatever you please, makes me no difference at all guy. And i addressed the "spinning" issue on the last sentence of the post. If you cant see it by now, aint nothin else to tell ya. Again lastly, YOUR motor YOUR build

Egi7 said:

The obd1 ecu will look for the signals from the dizzy. Try an h22 swap, on an accord an you will see. I ONLY talk to honda techs who have built motors and are rigorously into aftermarket performance. Like I said you go ahead and do whatever you please, makes me no difference at all guy. And i addressed the "spinning" issue on the last sentence of the post. If you cant see it by now, aint nothin else to tell ya. Again lastly, YOUR motor YOUR build

Click to expand...

LOL!

The h22 swap will look for the signal from the dizzy because the sensor on the crank is NON-EXISTANT.

I just finished a mini-me build in a 97 civic. Originally 0bd2, with the sensor on the crank. I left sensor on the crank there. didn't rewire anything to the dizzy. runs like a charm with an obd1 ecu. (I know its not an accord, but meh, same concept...)

The dizzy sends signals to the ECU, and it does not receive signals from anything other than the ECU. As long as the ECU gets the proper signal from SOMEWHERE, thats what counts! whether its from he crank or inside the dizzy, it doesn't matter.