Coolant drain/flush/fill sequence and a few questions

mossberg

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After reading about what a pain it is to remove the coolant drain bolt, I think I'll skip that and flush the system to clear out the engine block and heater core. I'm also switching from whatever green coolant prior owner/mechanic used when replacing water pump to Honda Type 2 coolant, so seems like a flush would be a good idea.

In the various flush guides I've read, nobody talks about draining the flush water in the engine and heater core. If I leave that water in there and add 50/50 mix, I'll end up with a coolant solution that has too much water, won't I?

I'm thinking that removing the lower rad hose will help drain enough of the flush water that I'll be close enough to the correct coolant concentration after adding the 50/50 mix.

If the front of car is on jack stands, is the bleeder bolt still the high point in the system, or can bleeding air be accomplished at the radiator cap?

Answers to the above might modify the below steps. But here's a detailed breakdown of the steps - any errors or omissions here? Thanks! :)

1. Start engine, set heater to max heat (fan can be off), turn off engine. This opens heater core valve.
2. Open rad cap (make sure engine/radiator are not hot)
3. Loosen rad drain plug and drain coolant
4. Pull out reserve tank and empty. Reinstall reserve tank.
5. Optional: Remove lower radiator hose to drain as much coolant as you can from engine. Reattach lower rad hose.
6. Tighten rad drain plug.
7. Fill reserve tank with distilled water. Fill radiator with distilled water. I'm guessing it's not necessary to bleed air during fill/flush with water?
8. With radiator cap off, start engine and let run until warmed up (with heater set to max heat and fan off); let radiator fan come on at least twice - fan coming on means hot coolant/water is flowing into the radiator through the upper rad hose.
9. Drain radiator, empty reserve tank. Optional: remove lower rad hose to drain engine block; reattach hose. Tighten rad drain plug.
10. Repeat steps 6 - 9 until water is clear.
11. Fill tank to Max mark with coolant (don't want to suck air into system)
12. Loosen air bleeder bolt in thermostat housing (12mm bolt); then pour coolant into radiator to bottom of filler neck.
13. Tighten the bleed bolt as soon as coolant starts to run out in a steady stream (no air bubbles)
14. With rad cap on loosely, start engine and let run until warmed up (radiator fan comes on at least twice); keep heater set to max heat, fan off.
15. If necessary, add more coolant to bring level back up to bottom of filler neck and to max mark in reserve tank.
16. Repeat steps 14-15. Tighten rad cap. Check for leaks.
 
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mossberg

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8. With radiator cap off, start engine and let run until warmed up (with heater set to max heat and fan off); let radiator fan come on at least twice - fan coming on means hot coolant/water is flowing into the radiator through the upper rad hose.
At this step, after filling radiator with distilled water, I ran the engine with heater set to max temp. The fans in front of the radiator never came on. I know coolant was flowing from the engine because the liquid in the radiator had gone from clear to tinted. Plus, steam was coming from the radiator (cap was off) and pushing the throttle resulted in some gurgling at the top of the radiator.

So I guess it's fine as far as the flush is concerned - i.e., the water is circulating into the engine and heater core and flushing the coolant in there. But I'm confused as to why the fans didn't kick in. I guess the engine was able to sit right at normal operating temp (confirmed by checking gauge) without using the fan. Would pushing the throttle up to 2k revs for a while have caused the fans to kick in?

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mossberg

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Pic of the coolant bleeder bolt. Seems like it's partially open (I haven't touched it yet). Is this normal?

79e04b7d-c8d6-4dd1-8b2e-3a55d69893f4.jpg



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mossberg

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Pic of the coolant bleeder bolt. Seems like it's partially open (I haven't touched it yet). Is this normal?
Bleeder bolt was fine; there's a standoff that the bolt was tightened against.
 

SSMNVCG3

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You didn't add water to the type 2 coolant did you?
I know they say to not add any water whatsoever to the type 2 coolant. And they also say to not let it mix with the green coolant as it will react and cause a sludge like build up.
 

mossberg

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You didn't add water to the type 2 coolant did you?
I know they say to not add any water whatsoever to the type 2 coolant. And they also say to not let it mix with the green coolant as it will react and cause a sludge like build up.
I flushed out the old green coolant with several gallon vs of distilled water. On the last flush, I flushed using Type 2 coolant so that the liquid remaining in the engine and heater core wasn't just water.

No, I didn't add water to the Type 2 coolant - I could only find that in pre-mixed form. Seems Honda does not sell that as concentrate, at least not to individuals.
 

SSMNVCG3

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I flushed out the old green coolant with several gallon vs of distilled water. On the last flush, I flushed using Type 2 coolant so that the liquid remaining in the engine and heater core wasn't just water.

No, I didn't add water to the Type 2 coolant - I could only find that in pre-mixed form. Seems Honda does not sell that as concentrate, at least not to individuals.

thats because they dont make it in a concentrated version for type 2. that's why i was asking if you had added water or not. i was told many times to make sure not to add any water to it since its already mixed to how its supposed to be
 
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