CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
Re: What did you do today Detailing related?
For light stains/dirt to moderate on carpets, I would highly recommend Folex. You can get a gallon at Home Depot or Lowes for 15.00. Folex leaves no residue, doesn't need to be rinsed, doesn't alter carpet fiber, has no scent, no bleaching properties, and is pH neutral. I will do a test spot on my car's carpet tomorrow to show you an example of it's cleaning power.
For plastic, and vinyl, I like to use a citrus based cleaner from Home Depot called Zep Heavy Duty Citrus Cleaner. You can get a gallon for 12.00. Grab a 32oz bottle, and do a 1:10 dilution ratio, which yields 3 oz product and 29 oz water, or if you have stubborn stains, marks, grease, step it up to 4:1 ratio. Both of these are readily accessible, and some of my favorite products to use.
For leather, do you know if they are coated or uncoated leather? To test, pour a drop of water on top, if it pools it's coated, if it absorbs, it's uncoated. Before I give you a recommendation, I need a little bit more info, otherwise you can easily damage the leather.
I do not have any experience removing gorilla glue, but I have a few ideas in mind. I googled gorilla glue's material safety data sheet, which means it's DNA, what it's made out of and it has 2 ingredients which both are a pain in the butt to remove; Urethane prepolymer, and Polymeric MDI. Both are used to form a flexible, but very sticky, and extremely durable adhesive.
Taken from the gorilla glue site; Wipe off excess glue immediately with a dry cloth or standard paint thinner. Do not drag glue over material, instead make small swipes to remove wet adhesive. Make sure you avoid skin contact. Cured glue can be removed with a chisel, scraper or sandpaper. I would not use a chisel on paint, a plastic scraper will be okay, but I'm afraid of lifting the paint off from underneath with it as well, sandpaper is a good option to a certain extent, as in sand the bump of the surface down to a more leveled surface then use a different plan of attack to finish.
My suggestion for removal is the following:
1. Use Goo Off(1st), paint thinner(2), acetone(3). Goo Off is safe on paint, but be careful with it. Paint thinner is one level before Acetone, and it is really strong and do not let any of the 3 sit, or dry on your paint. Dab a little bit on it, and try to rub it off. Wipe away excess immediately afterwards.
2. Remove as much glue as you can with a new razor blade while avoiding contact with the paint. Tape off the paint surrounding the glue if you have to in order to get a better point of view of how high the glue is compared to the paint.(Only do this if you have a small blob, if level with surface do not do it)
3. Use a hair dryer to try and soften the cured glue, and scrape off as much as you can with a sharp plastic scraper.
4. If you never used sandpaper, do not attempt this step AT ALL. Things can get bad really quick if you don't know what you are doing. I would start with 2000 grit sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block to ensure the surface is as flat as possible compared to using your finger tips. Lightly, and gently sand until you get a feel for how much pressure you need to use, and is it working or not. If not, be more aggressive and use 1500 grit sandpaper, and so forth. Do not use less than 600 if you don't have to.
5. Follow the sandpaper with compound then polish to restore the shine. A coat of wax, or sealant will help protect everything when you're done.
Test your hair dryer and scraper first in whatever area you deem "inconspicuous" to see how much heat and scraping force it will stand without significant damage.
Hope this helps, or gives you a better understanding of the position you are in.
For light stains/dirt to moderate on carpets, I would highly recommend Folex. You can get a gallon at Home Depot or Lowes for 15.00. Folex leaves no residue, doesn't need to be rinsed, doesn't alter carpet fiber, has no scent, no bleaching properties, and is pH neutral. I will do a test spot on my car's carpet tomorrow to show you an example of it's cleaning power.
For plastic, and vinyl, I like to use a citrus based cleaner from Home Depot called Zep Heavy Duty Citrus Cleaner. You can get a gallon for 12.00. Grab a 32oz bottle, and do a 1:10 dilution ratio, which yields 3 oz product and 29 oz water, or if you have stubborn stains, marks, grease, step it up to 4:1 ratio. Both of these are readily accessible, and some of my favorite products to use.
For leather, do you know if they are coated or uncoated leather? To test, pour a drop of water on top, if it pools it's coated, if it absorbs, it's uncoated. Before I give you a recommendation, I need a little bit more info, otherwise you can easily damage the leather.
I do not have any experience removing gorilla glue, but I have a few ideas in mind. I googled gorilla glue's material safety data sheet, which means it's DNA, what it's made out of and it has 2 ingredients which both are a pain in the butt to remove; Urethane prepolymer, and Polymeric MDI. Both are used to form a flexible, but very sticky, and extremely durable adhesive.
Taken from the gorilla glue site; Wipe off excess glue immediately with a dry cloth or standard paint thinner. Do not drag glue over material, instead make small swipes to remove wet adhesive. Make sure you avoid skin contact. Cured glue can be removed with a chisel, scraper or sandpaper. I would not use a chisel on paint, a plastic scraper will be okay, but I'm afraid of lifting the paint off from underneath with it as well, sandpaper is a good option to a certain extent, as in sand the bump of the surface down to a more leveled surface then use a different plan of attack to finish.
My suggestion for removal is the following:
1. Use Goo Off(1st), paint thinner(2), acetone(3). Goo Off is safe on paint, but be careful with it. Paint thinner is one level before Acetone, and it is really strong and do not let any of the 3 sit, or dry on your paint. Dab a little bit on it, and try to rub it off. Wipe away excess immediately afterwards.
2. Remove as much glue as you can with a new razor blade while avoiding contact with the paint. Tape off the paint surrounding the glue if you have to in order to get a better point of view of how high the glue is compared to the paint.(Only do this if you have a small blob, if level with surface do not do it)
3. Use a hair dryer to try and soften the cured glue, and scrape off as much as you can with a sharp plastic scraper.
4. If you never used sandpaper, do not attempt this step AT ALL. Things can get bad really quick if you don't know what you are doing. I would start with 2000 grit sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block to ensure the surface is as flat as possible compared to using your finger tips. Lightly, and gently sand until you get a feel for how much pressure you need to use, and is it working or not. If not, be more aggressive and use 1500 grit sandpaper, and so forth. Do not use less than 600 if you don't have to.
5. Follow the sandpaper with compound then polish to restore the shine. A coat of wax, or sealant will help protect everything when you're done.
Test your hair dryer and scraper first in whatever area you deem "inconspicuous" to see how much heat and scraping force it will stand without significant damage.
Hope this helps, or gives you a better understanding of the position you are in.
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