f23 boost questions.

so i have been reading a few boosted f23 threads and havent seen much on changing the internals most of what ive read has been people talking about boosted h22 or boosted f23...im dead set on f23 boosted...but my main question is should i go with a higher compression 10 or 12 or should i just drop to a 9.0 and either way should i get forged k20 pistons and upgraded rods or stock rods?
im more worried about the internal aspect of the build than the turbo part.
also if there is any other internal parts that should be upgraded or altered then please throw it m way as i am attempting to make a decent build.
*want HP above 225
*also will invest into head studs too

I'm no professional. But it also depends on your budget. Do you have a 5 speed or the auto?

The f23 blocks are pretty stout as is. The girdle is pretty beefy and the block is cast iron. My accord has the F23A5 motor (non-vtec and 9.9:1 CR), so it's on the lower end of the f-series performance spectrum and it still makes great power. Been running 15 psi of boost out of my GT25R with no problems for the past couple months. And before that it was running 10psi of boost for a couple years. They are really strong motors. 225 whp is honestly nothing for an f-series. So long as u got a manual trans and you do a good job putting together your turbo build you should not have any problems.

Make sure you find your self a reputable tuner btw. And my recommendation would be to find the tuner prior to starting everything so that way you can cater your build to what he is more comfortable with. If the guy prefers AEM, go AEM, if he likes chrome, go chrome. The programming of the EMS will make or break your build.

H22's a re a little tricker to boost seeing as they are already running fairly high compression out of the box, and low comp pistons can't be simply put into the motor because of the FRM sleeves.

Im ahead of ya on that one, ive called 1 place emailed his reccomendation a few mintues prior and about to talk to another. I knew the f's could take boost but should i go high or low, or should i just talk to the tuner and decide from that?
Also this is a 5spd tranny

For a stock block, 7 psi is a good starting point. For a built block you can get like 300whp at 15psi depending on your turbo and setup. If you are interested in boosting, I am selling a basically 'turn-key' turbo setup good up to ~300whp or more depending on your build. I can give any advice I know along the way as well if you need help, let me know.

It's good that it's a 5-speed. Unless you KNOW the tuner knows single cams and F-series, I wouldn't take his recommendation for boost pressure because he would probably be basing his estimates from B/D/H series builds - which are drastically different as far as what each can handle compared to F series.

I got in touch with a guy who has tuned boosted f23's but he hasnt been able to return my email, also PM sent

Never go wrong with forged... and look in to sleeves or block guards... but 225 hp might b able to do that on all stock into... and Dnt listen to the transmission specialist on here... took my car to rtr performance who actually said autos handle boost better due to smoother shifts and and constant build... only thing is track launching

Im def going to run forged rods and pistons but i will look into block sleeving but idk if i will be able to because i will need it to drive til Hi-Po class where i could pull the block out. Although i do know guys at my apt area that have cherry pickers.
Which forged rods would best the best, ive heard eagle is good and bad.

What is Hi-Po class? State Trooper training???

Eagle is fine, so is every other forged brand. The problem is finding/sourcing stock-spec forged rods for our cars. Crower's are like $780 + Shipping.

There are options though.. You just need to do LOTS of research. Lots.

I would skip the rods and pistons unless you are looking at getting close to 300.

The forging process packs more aluminum into the same area. The piston will be slightly denser than say a regularly forged piece of aluminum. This means that as the piston heats up it will expand slightly more. That is why for race applications the pistons and rings run a looser fit in the block (need to accommodate the expansion due to the tons of heat the motor is subject to at high HP levels), so there is that buffer for the components to expand. But that has its own trade off like tons more blow-by and a motor that doesn't last as long because things are not as tightly fit under regular conditions like an OEM motor. There is no free lunch in engineering. Always gotta make trade-offs.

How much the pistons or metal expand and contract depend on the actual composition of the metal, but this is a generalization. If you are running more than 280/300 hp then i would say go forged internals as that is out of the capabilities of the stock cast internals. If not I would stick to the stock stuff, as it will simplify the build quite a bit and save you some money to invest in other things.

Just my 2 cents.