finch13
Well-Known Member
Yes, I know... but think if it's his first time it should be done "by the book," ya know?
Heater not hot!
- Thread starter .::Basil::.
- Start date
yes, Also after the car is warmed up driven and cools over night, Top off coolant before cold starting the car the next day. this ensures max cooling system volume, Repeat if necessary but also to check for leaks.
klr4life
Active Member
Im going to the dealer on Saturday to get a OEM thermostat and see if i get better results. The aftermarket thermostat did you cheap looking compared to the OEM one. I was thinking the same thign when i removed it, the aftermarket one looked a lot different. I will also bleed the system. I hope this will fix my problem because its cold in NYC.
klr4life
Active Member
Ok so i installed the OEM thermostat and now my heat is HOT, thanks for the help people, the Honda thermostat is much better than a aftermarket replacement. It cost more but you will be happy when your heat is working well, i put my heat on the first click and it gets so hot enough i have to turn it off sometimes 
Ok so i installed the OEM thermostat and now my heat is HOT, thanks for the help people, the Honda thermostat is much better than a aftermarket replacement. It cost more but you will be happy when your heat is working well, i put my heat on the first click and it gets so hot enough i have to turn it off sometimes
well Im glad that it was the fix, much easier than flushing or changing a heater core.
Also makes me happy I forked out the 30 bucks for it even though the aftermarket parts guys were looking at me like I am crazy when I tell them There thermostat is not worth of my engine.
Ok, I"ll chime in here...
I've had three accords, and all three of them do this.
If it's say, below freezing (32degF or colder) when I first start the car (it sits outside), nothing else on (not even the blower) you will hear a "tapping" sound like the heater core valve is trying to open and close and open and close etc...and not getting anywhere. (this is in fact the problem, more on that later).
I have a scanguage II that I drive with on my steering wheel column and I'll watch the temp of the coolant so verify it's around 190degF. I will turn the HVAC to all the way HOT and it will still blow cold air, but if I turn and HOLD the knob (almost as if I were twisting it off) it will blow hot air. AS soon as I let go of the knob it will blow cold again. After maybe 5 minutes of this, it finally will blow completely HOT like it should.
If the ambient temp is above freezing, I generally don't have this issue.
Another member in this thread said.
"Alright guys, its probably the water valve that leads into the heater core. They have a tendency to seize up during the summer and not want to move when you need them too (during winter). When you turn the heater know to full hot, it drives a motor that opens that valve to allow hot coolant into the heater core.
Its on the fire wall and the lower heater hose leads to it. There is a cable leading to it and the pivot that the cable attaches to also has a tendency to twist, thus not allowing the valve to open......"
This MOTOR is the problem...I sprayed the piece with some penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster) (not WD40) and it worked GREAT and have since not had an issue.
My accords were doing this before and after I changed the t-stat w/OEM Honda parts BTW.
Hope that helps.
I've had three accords, and all three of them do this.
If it's say, below freezing (32degF or colder) when I first start the car (it sits outside), nothing else on (not even the blower) you will hear a "tapping" sound like the heater core valve is trying to open and close and open and close etc...and not getting anywhere. (this is in fact the problem, more on that later).
I have a scanguage II that I drive with on my steering wheel column and I'll watch the temp of the coolant so verify it's around 190degF. I will turn the HVAC to all the way HOT and it will still blow cold air, but if I turn and HOLD the knob (almost as if I were twisting it off) it will blow hot air. AS soon as I let go of the knob it will blow cold again. After maybe 5 minutes of this, it finally will blow completely HOT like it should.
If the ambient temp is above freezing, I generally don't have this issue.
Another member in this thread said.
"Alright guys, its probably the water valve that leads into the heater core. They have a tendency to seize up during the summer and not want to move when you need them too (during winter). When you turn the heater know to full hot, it drives a motor that opens that valve to allow hot coolant into the heater core.
Its on the fire wall and the lower heater hose leads to it. There is a cable leading to it and the pivot that the cable attaches to also has a tendency to twist, thus not allowing the valve to open......"
This MOTOR is the problem...I sprayed the piece with some penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster) (not WD40) and it worked GREAT and have since not had an issue.
My accords were doing this before and after I changed the t-stat w/OEM Honda parts BTW.
Hope that helps.
Mine works fine, 120K 1999 old caustic coolant and all
