car wont start,AEM EMS installed

1NonlyAccord

1NonlyAccord

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haha Ill get this thing back on the streets next week! i love my new 8th gen,but nothing is like my eye catching 6thgen! gahh

Off topic,What spark plug gaps are yall running?-turbo guys.
Maybe thats why my car is bogging..i think im .0030 or w.e
 
hotaccord243

hotaccord243

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Well glad you found a way to fix this!

I'm running some NGK 2 steps colder and running a gap of .0025 roughly, that should be plenty. I know I have bogged like crazy any bigger than .0025.... Previously I was running as small as .0020 or less, but it wasn't necessary to go that small.
 
1NonlyAccord

1NonlyAccord

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dang,maybe thats been my issue with my bogging down problems under WOT? my gap is fairly large then. Ill go tone them down some!

Will my map tune work on the new series 2 EMS i ordered?
 
hotaccord243

hotaccord243

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Yeah, I would gap them down to about .0025 because that boost is probably blowing out the spark.
You should be able to use your map with your new v2 aem, but if not it should come with an updated base map to use/modify. I dont think you should have any problems though.
 
FunnyVictor86

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Use DENSO or NGK plugs. Don't forget to get plugs with a lower heat range or a "colder" plug as they call it. In most spark plugs the higher the number the colder the plug. A "7" should suffice and please do not buy those piece of junk iridium spark plugs. Standard copper plugs work best on boost fed engines.
 
MoneyPit

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1NonlyAccord said:
dang,maybe thats been my issue with my bogging down problems under WOT? my gap is fairly large then. Ill go tone them down some!

Will my map tune work on the new series 2 EMS i ordered?
Click to expand...

Are you running an open waste gate and/or monitoring knock?
 
1NonlyAccord

1NonlyAccord

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yea its semi open.open dump tube under the radiator. and im not sure if thats being monitored or not..

and yea im running NGK brke7s or w.e.
 
MoneyPit

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Do you know if they set up your EMS for knock protection?

The reason I ask is because it is super common for open-dump setups to trigger the knock sensor, then the ECU pulls fuel and timing inappropriately to protect against what it thinks is knock.

Once you get your car running again, plug the laptop in and pull up the knock tab and watch its behavior under WOT. If you consistently get activity at the same RPM's, then you know your open-dump is triggering the knock sensor.
 
1NonlyAccord

1NonlyAccord

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It was having that issue before hand with the FMU/missing link as well..and I cannot figure it out...and of course it wasnt doing it on the dyno but on street everytime I get on it..so its not even fun to drive!
 
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