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  #661  
Old 07-15-2016, 06:42 AM
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Sil2DrV6 Sil2DrV6 is offline
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Originally Posted by 604ACCORD View Post
I forgot American cars don't have drl ( day time running lights). LOL
Yeah, only USDM 6GA's would say that lol. I believe 7GA's got them standardized up here in US but don't q me haha.

Originally Posted by irtiza18 View Post
Someone stole my cat, back in jan 2016, had a bypass pipe welded in, now i have a CEL for it and sometimes its got a funky smells coming from the exhaust pipe, i live in NYC, so inspection is coming up in september. great....
Originally Posted by 604ACCORD View Post
My neighbors got stolen to, they cut it off in his driveway right under his window didn't even hear it. Just lower your car then u don't have to worry about it happening again.
Factory genuine converters are pretty pricey so it's kind of common that it happens. But I'm sorry to hear that, man. Well, if you just want to pass the inspection in a cost-effective way, you can get an aftermarket cat converter like Magnaflow's or something. Aftermarket cat converters are usually 40% - 60% cheaper than OEM's but they tend to give you the engine codes relatively sooner than OEM's.




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Car's at the shop for the cat converter & the A/C compressor replacement atm. Fuel pump might be due to the mileage of the car, (generally 'till 150K mi) but was told they're still good. Will get more insights when it's completed.




Modified the OP by breaking down the maintenance log into a few sections so I can keep track of my lists more clearly to determine what is coming up.
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  #662  
Old 07-20-2016, 06:21 AM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Originally Posted by Sil2DrV6 View Post
Car's at the shop for the cat converter & the A/C compressor replacement atm. Fuel pump might be due to the mileage of the car, (generally 'till 150K mi) but was told they're still good. Will get more insights when it's completed..
Have been notified by the shop from time to time, and he said that the car is finally fixed! The issues were:


Cat Converter w/ 2 gaskets + fr & rr oxygen sensors -- The internal structure was damaged 'n melted, causing the embarrassing noise for a few days till I finally decided to have it replaced w/ the OEM factory non-remanufactured genuine piece, ordered by the shop. I recall myself driving and hit (went over) a metal object, which it believed / seemed to be one of those small sewer pothole tops about the size of a melon, sticking up and left on the ground by someone at dark in the night for a stupid reason, or the city's / DOT's mistake. It hit my cat, sub muffler, fuel tank, and y-pipe iirc att when it was inspected last year.. I hope there wouldn't be a lot of melted debris trapped inside my beloved 9GA mufflers, but there's no more P0420, and I can pass the vehicle emission smog test w/ np.


A/C Compressor, A/C drier, o-ring kit, and A/C cut-out relay -- Ended up getting a re-manufactured Honda OEM compressor by OEMacuraparts.com, by a mistake on my own, when I was supposed to get just the clutch set + belt (meaning, not the whole compressor assembly). But I actually kept it BINB unintentionally b/c I became so lazy to return it to the seller, until my A/C system coincidently died on me. Who knew I was gonna need it haha. But this OEMacura's new remanufactured compressor sucks!! Idk when this thing got manufactured tbh atm, but he told me it's super heavy when it operates. He said it would hurt my engine when it's turned on. He felt it was questionable when he opened up the packaging b/c it wasn't sealed with a bag w/ some silica packets or anything; Instead, it was bare naked with some space-filling papers. He said "Almost all automobile parts have some sort of a thing like 'product shelf life', and it all ages over the course of years when it's exposed in the air." "I always order parts that are 'fresh' (newly manufactured in the most recent year) as much as possible, so it's OEM quality at it's best." "Unless they're glasses." I knew remanufactured pieces aren't the best quality, even if they're brand new OEM's but... Damn.. I wish I had it returned to oemacura, when I thought I didn't need it.. b/c, obviously he found it out the after the installation. File a claim to the seller and return it? It needs to be reinstalled first tho.. Sigh... Oemacuraparts... This prob is a ***** haha. I told him to just leave it installed for now, and I'll figure it out later. No wonder why we can always get parts cheap online. Be ware of buying car parts online, folks. Prices being so cheap online are mostly overstocked and aged items. Learned my lesson in a hard way here haha. Well, at least our cars can run w/o the use of the compressor turned on, so thanks to the old gen vehicle, that gives me more time to deal with this hassle. ..., Hopefully lol. Well, maybe I could permanently delete it for the car's better performance in weight reduction.


P0705, P0706, and P1676 by worn out AT range sensor -- Didn't know I had them at all. Thought the engine light was only my cat's P0420.. Well, my shift indicator in the gage cluster never flashed / blinked during the change between shifts, so I couldn't tell that I had those codes. I knew my AT has been acting a little slow when shifting from 3rd to 2nd, ever since I bought the car in '07, but oh well.. I think he said it was the external damage (cheap cause) on the "AT range switch". But it could be the internal tranny problem (expensive cause obviously lol). But we'll see when I talk to him when I pick up my car today, and I'll edit these posts, when I get more insights. P1676 can be reset it manually, if I'm not mistaken, so atm, I'm guessing he simply performed that.


Worn out fuel injection relay -- The car had a minor staring issue from time to time, which it sparks but fails to ignite the fuel not being pumped out, since November last year or so. Happens especially when I filled up the tank. This was one of the main reasons for the car to be dropped off to the shop this time, along with my nasty 'n noisy cat converter. He said it could be due to the age of my fuel pump (due in 150K miles). He he test-started the engine about 15 times, and caught the starting struggle, which he figured it out that it was that particular old module being the main cause of the problem.


Fuel Pump -- Originally thought to be the reason of struggle at a startup, and it is actually due for an replacement, but he decided not to touch on that, since the engine starts fine for now, after replacing the relay module. He told me to give him a call, when the struggle occurs b/c of the life span of the parts is due for a replacement.


SEV Mechanical Box -- Some JDM aftermarket stuff that supposedly "reduces a car's physical stress" that affects its performance. The stress affects the performance of a car's potential power, caused by the friction of metal components (i.e.compressors, pistons, gearbox etc). The stress can also be coming from the physical gravitation of force from a car's ride (suspension, frames, wheels etc.) Not only it reduces those type of stress, but it also rejuvenates more flow of liquid flow for a better efficiency in burning & cooling (i.e. radiator, fuel, br/ps/at fulid, etc.) Some of the stuff make passengers relieved from stress coming from a car's ride feelings. Told him to simply stick them onto my AT assembly. He goes, "Interesting idea. It would work great for the use with water, like if the shower head was made with their material, or scissors,". Told him they make scissors haha. He said "Yeah, it might work on your AT, I mean why the hell not." "$300 bucks for two pieces of metals on your AT better work somehow, and you'll feel positive when it's there." Yeah, it's like carrying or wearing a good luck charm, too haha. We'll see how I'll feel on my AT, when I get my car back lol. (For more info on this particular JDM stuff, plz search "SEV" within this thread, or click the link on my OP where I list up my mods.) ...,

Last edited by Sil2DrV6; 08-31-2016 at 04:03 AM.
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  #663  
Old 08-31-2016, 04:07 AM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Edited 'n added some insights on the previous post, after seeing him at the shop when I picked up my car, but it took a few wks to get to this, and I also had the AT fluid drain 'n refill recently, along with Takata air bag recall + my driver side's worn out seat buckle, which was giving me the SRS lights for the past few yrs. Well, Yeah the A/C isn't still working but the hot weather is almost gone, so I'll figure it out later. But other than that..., the car's running like a champ!!! Feel so much torque around 2500 rpm, when I usually want to change my shift in a city-driving. High RPM also smoothly accelerates the car with the amazing vtec. Feels like the car runs like when it 1st came out of a factory 14 yrs ago. No more limp mode, no more engine codes, and no more annoying lights in my gage cluster. I have been wanting to restore the car's health to the optimal level this year, and I feel like the car has finally came to the point where I've been wanted it to be.
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  #664  
Old 08-31-2016, 04:29 AM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Went to the Honda dealer for the Takata air bag recall & a free replacement on my driver's side seat belt buckle (SRS light). The new piece looks so fresh that the "PUSH" is in red, unlike my passenger's buckle lol.



Been having this 6000K LED 168 socket-converted trunk cargo light, taped it on the light cover mesh, but it was keep falling down since it wasn't fully attached to the surface being mesh.



Applied more 3M tape, heavey-duty one this time.



Used to be on the white plastic mesh cover, but relocated next to it since it wasn't holding up well on the mesh surface.



Still does the job haha. The camera shows it like it's 5K cool blue white, but they're 6K white.
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  #665  
Old 08-31-2016, 05:28 AM
604ACCORD 604ACCORD is offline
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Must light up the whole trunk now, I did a led strip in mine so much better. Cars looking good. Feels nice have everything running smoothly.
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  #666  
Old 08-31-2016, 07:37 PM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Once you got your full camber kit does your car drive perfectly straight now? My car is lowered probably the same as yours, it's not slammed but I'm not sure if I should get a front UCA camber kit and Rear UCA/LCA camber kit. Was it worth it?
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  #667  
Old 09-01-2016, 02:01 AM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Originally Posted by 604ACCORD View Post
Must light up the whole trunk now, I did a led strip in mine so much better. Cars looking good. Feels nice have everything running smoothly.
Yea the LED lighting in our trunk cargo is much better than stock, but sometimes I feel like I don't want to pop it up in the night w/ ppl around, when it's so messy inside there lol. Thanks man, it feels sooo nice but I really gotta watch out on my driving habits (and gas $ lol.) Btw, I'm in WA. Would def like to meet up w/ ya when I visit Vancouver! Or, you lmk when you're visiting seattle!


Originally Posted by phi1542 View Post
Once you got your full camber kit does your car drive perfectly straight now? My car is lowered probably the same as yours, it's not slammed but I'm not sure if I should get a front UCA camber kit and Rear UCA/LCA camber kit. Was it worth it?
My front UCA is stock. I had a pair of Ingalls camber adjustable front upper ball joints originally, only b/c I was told by a shop that my BBS wheels wouldn't be able to align properly on my car w/o a set of adjustable front ball joints. Later on, my front right one got busted so I replaced it with SPC's. So, I only have ball joints that are camber adjustable for the front to this date.

Same deal again; I was told to get a set of adjustable rear UCA's for my wheels, and I got Wicked Tuning's. Later on my right one got busted, so I replaced it with SPC's

In addition to my rear setting, I decided to get a set of adjustable rear LCAs by Powertrix. This LCA allows you to have demon camber settings, but I bought this set, only b/c it prevents the rear tires from being toed-in. Now, this LCA has made the car really stable on a straight line for real. I have yet to have the alignment service after the initial installation a year and a half ago, but it seems to be pretty solid. It's b/c I usually can tell by the look of the rear tires being tucked in over the course of time, which I don't really see them tucked in like how they used to. Also, before getting the Powertrix, the car always felt like it needed an alignment after about a year, when driving on freeways. However, it's been a year and half, but my car still drives pretty damn straight and steady at any speed till 130 mph or so.

Hope this helps ya.

Last edited by Sil2DrV6; 09-02-2016 at 02:40 AM.
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  #668  
Old 09-01-2016, 02:07 AM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

Originally Posted by Sil2DrV6 View Post
Yea the LED lighting in our trunk cargo is much better than stock, but sometimes I feel like I don't want to pop it up in the night w/ ppl around, when it's so messy inside there lol. Thanks man, it feels sooo nice but I really gotta watch out on my driving habits (and gas $ lol.) Btw, I'm in WA. Would def like to meet up w/ ya when I visit Vancouver! Or, you lmk when you're visiting seattle.
I was just down in grand mound this summer with the fam we hit up great wolf lodge good times. Pm me if u head up here im close to the border we can go grab a coffee and talk cars.
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  #669  
Old 09-02-2016, 02:30 AM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L

^ Cool, man. Will Do!

Had a little chance to re-edit some photos I took (one summer ago lol).







Updated the OP 'n documented the parts replacement log.

I also found the correct way to make my CL/TL bettery box cover properly mounted flush. Will post it later when I get better pics.
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  #670  
Old 09-03-2016, 06:41 AM
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Re: Sil2DrV6's 2002 Accord Coupe EX-L V6

Originally Posted by puzzlemaster94 View Post
Your paint looks flawless, so jealous. Battery box looks really good and the blackhoused lights look great also.

Keep up the good work, Rich

Originally Posted by Sil2DrV6 View Post
^ Really? I stay away from door dents 'n all but, I haven't been able to clay 'n polish it for a long time tho. Maybe just b/c it's silver haha. I'm jelly of your MT swap work tho! Appreciate your kind words. The battery cover needs a little more work to make it sit flush, but it's getting there. Loving my headlights!

Thanks, Evan.
   ↑
   ↑
Took a year and a half to figure this out lol. Here's the reply to the post:
Originally Posted by Sil2DrV6 View Post
Got the Christmas gift from Santa. (2G CL / TL Battery cover & box.)




Was hoping for them to be PNP, but I unfortunately had to trim off a few sections, since I have zero gage ground wires coming out from my battery terminals.





BEFORE:

AFTER:
I double checked he differences in the diagrams between 6GAV6 & TL/CL's, and I clearly thought that they all share the same parts for the brakets.. They actually do but, I discovered that those two bolts, where they tie down the battery, were switched over between left and right.

So, my 210mm was originally mounted on the right side of the battery (sticking up too much for the cover to be flush), and my 195mm was on the left side.

All it needed to be done was to take them off and switched them over, so that my 210mm will be on the left & the 195mm will be on the right side of the battery as they're shown below.



Now the cover is perfectly mounted on to box. No pic b/c it's pretty much the same as my previous pics, except it's a tiny bit more flat.

Last edited by Sil2DrV6; 02-15-2018 at 08:39 PM.
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