(*WARNING* Due to a lack of an aftermarket, most of the f/i, all motor builds will be decently similar)
Just going to write a guide real quick off the top of my head to get the ball rolling.
Lets Break down the Motor into certain Parts. Theres always the top half and bottom half of the motor to go by but i want to get more specific. There are so many different variations that its almost impossible for me to list everything. I'm just going to post the best I can for average swapped car. If you'll be looking for serious power, just ask.
Lets go from the intake filter to the valves.
The intake- Honestly, the intake is not a serious power gaining platform unless your build is serious. I'd recommend a stock air box with a K&N filter for most people. But if you have a J32a2, J35a3/4 you definitely want to gain some power via the intake your going to need a custom sheet metal intake. From a 5-4.5" velocity stack to a 3.5-3" piping. Not kidding you will see a gain from 10-20whp with this. My fried Kiet (J35a8 swapped into a 7th gen coupe proved it to me with his car, those dbw engines don't even have a tuning solution either so thats saying something). The Filter, id recommend a HKS Mushroom or a AEM/K&N Dryflow filter.
The Throttle Body- This is uncontested. The Blox 76mm TB is by far the way to go. You will need an adapter (will have to be custom) to mount it. My friend Jake, JCharged on V6P, makes them. Shoot him an inbox and hell be more then able to help you out.
The Intake Manifold - For the J swapped cars, hood clearance is always a problem. Easy solution, the J37 manifold from a 09 TL SH-AWD. They flow the best out of any mainfold, look the best, and have 0 clearance issues. Don't bother looking for a used one, just buy it new from Acura for about $220. 1hondaparts.com is the cheapest place to buy honda/acura parts (vandergriff honda in texas). Now for the cover plate you have two options. A honda one off the 08 accord v6, or the 09 TL SH-AWD (about $100 more then the honda one). You will also need custom bolts made to bolt it to the motor, (Give me a little bit for the exact specs I have to find them) (I got mine from Bolt Depot for something like $15 shipped). If you still want to use the J32a2 or J35a3/4 manifold to flow like the J37 one, you will need to port it, switch to 2002 acura MDX Velocity stacks. Also P2R makes all the gaskets for the throttle body and intake manifold, don't forget to pick those up.
My Recommendation: AEM Dryflow Filter, Custom Sheet metal Intake, Blox 76mm TB, Custom adapter plate that also acts as spacer, J37 intake manifold, Honda cover plate, every P2R gaskets.
The Head, I will break this down to smaller sections
Ok for the head you only have a few options available at this time.
Complete Stock Head - The Best stock Head is from the J35a3 or the J32a2. The J32a2 has the best cams. The J35a3 has the best flowing ones, 35mm valves (10% lighter then the 36mm ones and flow better. Believe it or not the 36mm valves were for emissions not for performance. Why do you think all the other J series motors use 35mm valves?) I would go with J35a3 heads in a heartbeat. Just throw the J32a2 cams in it and your good to go.
Cams - I will start with this because this is what everyone is interested in. The most aggressive cams are the Manual J32a2 cams. Ive heard back and forth between people claiming the J32a2 auto cams are the same exact but my friend Don from RPM System say the manual cams are the best to go with for an oem cam. I will take his word over anyone else's. For aftermarket cams you have three options. 1. Bisimoto. 2. Gude 3. Custom. If it was me, I would buy the Gude cams. They're cheaper then the Bisimoto ones and honestly, Bisimoto is a person I would try to stay away from. He has been under a lot of heat recently and lost his way. He's been getting called out by many angry customers and his customer service is second to none in the worst possible way. I'm not going to get into a whole essay about how Bisi is a pos in this thread. Also, I do not trust any man who wears tight jeans, skin tight shirts, and big ugly designer sunglasses to car shows. (my poor attempt at comedy).
The Valvetrain - Stay away from Bisi once again. I use his valve train and I'm not impressed. I should have went with KMS. KMS buys the valve train from supertech, rebadges them and sells them for amazing cheap. KMS sells a whole J series kit complete with valves, springs, retainers, block guard, ect all for $500. KMS makes great stuff and I will be using they're products from now on at any chance I have.
Porting - There are many different ways you can go about this. I would take the head to a machine shop (find one that does a lot of supras
) and have them raceport it.
Gaskets: Go with a cometic Head gasket if you have the chance. The thickness depends on what your trying to build. Obviously go with a thin one for an all motor setup for that compression.
My Recommendation. J35a3 Heads, Full Raceport, Gude Cams, KMS Valvetrain, and a Cometic Head Gasket.
Theres an old saying. "Theres no replacement for displacement" This is true. The J32 will make more HP then TQ. The J35 will make more TQ then HP. Then theres the famous quote by Carroll Shelby "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races." Don't know about you but I am a firm believer in that Carroll Shelby knew his **** when he was smacking around ferrari.
Lets start with stock bottom ends.
For a fair comparison: Lets say you have my recombination for the top half of the motor. Why do I say this? Different heads will perform differently. So All the bottom halts have the same head for a fair comparison.
J32a2 - Makes good horse power but not enough tq. The webbing on the block, steel sleeves, forged crank, cast rods and pistons are good. The Valve reliefs in the pistons are pretty nice looking as well
A nice 10:5:1 compression ratio for an all motor build is always a good thing. Also leaving you a little breathing room for some room for boost or spray later on.
J35a3 - *For the People saying this won't bolt up to the 6 speed because it came from an awd car, I just want to let you know that this is the block I use and it bolts right up.* Makes a boat load of tq. Should be the same amount of HP as the J32a2, possibly even more. I can't see more displacement hurting the HP rating. *This is why this is theory* The Best part about the J35a3 is the bottom half. It uses the same exact block as the J32a2. If you don't believe me, look up the part numbers. Same webbing, same sleeves, ect. The only difference is the stamp that says J35a3 on the block. The internals are different of course. It uses a forged crank and rods (factory forged rods people, don't get excited), and cast pistons. 9:5:1 compression makes this motor idea for boost/spray.
J35a4 - Honda took the J35a3 and J30a1 and had a baby with this one. It uses a different block then the first two. It doesn't have the webbing/support, it uses FRM sleeves (reinforced fiber). It also has a cast crank, rods, and pistons. It utilizes a 9:5:1 compression ratio like the a3. This would be the last block I would use for a build. Its fine for all motor though. You have the displacement but i wouldn't boost it or try to rev it past 6700. I had mine running at 7k rpm before I blew it up.
My recommendation: The best stock bottom end goes to the J35a3 by far for all motor/spray/all motor.
Custom Stroker Builds:
The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.
The J37 All motor: I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, J37a1 Rods, J37a1 Bearings, P2R crank snout, J37a1 Pistons. You will need to bore the block out 1mm to 89mm the factory limit. This is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray.