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  #21  
Old 04-10-2017, 11:45 AM
Blazinqwickly Blazinqwickly is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Well look on the bright side, no ABS, one less thing to break and have to drain the bank replacing with hours of work.
I know I feel that way about my GSR right now after seeing the accumulator fail on it and pricing that ABS unit out, talk about needing a few beers to choke that one down.
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  #22  
Old 04-11-2017, 11:15 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Originally Posted by Blazinqwickly View Post
Well look on the bright side, no ABS, one less thing to break and have to drain the bank replacing with hours of work.
I know I feel that way about my GSR right now after seeing the accumulator fail on it and pricing that ABS unit out, talk about needing a few beers to choke that one down.
Yeah, I'm actually kind of glad it doesn't have it, as I bet that thing is pricey. Bad enough my wife's 00 does have it. But yeah if it's not there it can't break. It being not there gives a little extra room under the hood too (bonus).
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #23  
Old 04-11-2017, 11:37 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Originally Posted by Connie View Post
Yeah, I am starting to think I should probably get rid of one of the toys at least, but I'm not really in a hurry to let go of them at the same time.

It should take maybe 2 hours to drop the subframe.
Yours will be easier than mine because yours is a 4 cylinder, so you only have 4 subframe bolts instead of 12 like a V6 car.
It's really not that difficult.

-In the trunk, take off the access panel and unplug the connector in the pump.
-Crank the car for a while to relieve fuel pressure. You could unbolt the pulsation damper under the hood to make sure you have absolutely zero fuel pressure, but I didn't bother and didn't have much fuel come out when I got the fuel lines disconnected, so that's up to you.
-Raise the car and take off the back wheels.
-Drop the exhaust (the flange at the catalytic will probably be too rusty to come apart, you should be able to get the 6 nuts where the exhaust meets the manifold, though.)
-Take off the brakes and tie them up
-Disconnect the ABS sensors at the subframe.
-Disconnect the fuel lines under the car, and the filler and vent hose inside the wheel well (under a plastic cover behind the spring on the driver's side rear wheel well in front of the gas tank door)
-Undo the emergency brake cables and get them out of the way.
-Separate the knuckles from the subframe (there is a bracket that is bolted to the knuckle on each side that supports the brake flex hose, the e-brake cable, I think the wire for the ABS sensor as well, and the swaybar link. After removing the flex hose and the cable/hose, unbolt the bracket and the knuckle should be able to be separated from the rest of the subframe)
-Undo the rear struts from the subframe
-Jack under tank and remove subframe bolts.
-Let the whole thing down bit by bit, making sure it's not getting hung up on the struts (it will).
-Once it's out, you will need to undo the straps, and these bolts will fight you. You only have to get 1 out on each strap and the strap will be able to be peeled out of the way.
-The bolts that hold the fuel pump will probably look hopelessly rusted, but they aren't very tight and will probably come out (I used side cutters to grab what was left of the heads and was able to spin all of them out) The new tanks usually come with new bolts for this. Same story for the evap canister thingy that's in the tank.

The only issues you will probably run into will be corrosion related. You have pretty much the same climate as we do here, and your cars have lots of miles. But you already knew that
Thanks for the write up. I forgot to tell you thanks for that but I guess my mind was slipping. Yes our cars do see similar weather, as we get similar weather here, with similar deicing methods. That new brine stuff they're throwing around these days though is very hard on steel, and seems more active at attacking rust than regular rock salt. I think the only area worse than ours is NY state, as I've got friends that live over there where they literally throw it down on frosty mornings just to use it up :O They say it's a budget requirement kind of thing. Here the county waits and doesn't toss it down unless they find that they need to (savings to the budget).
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #24  
Old 04-12-2017, 08:53 AM
Connie Connie is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Originally Posted by Rusty Accord View Post
Thanks for the write up. I forgot to tell you thanks for that but I guess my mind was slipping. Yes our cars do see similar weather, as we get similar weather here, with similar deicing methods. That new brine stuff they're throwing around these days though is very hard on steel, and seems more active at attacking rust than regular rock salt. I think the only area worse than ours is NY state, as I've got friends that live over there where they literally throw it down on frosty mornings just to use it up :O They say it's a budget requirement kind of thing. Here the county waits and doesn't toss it down unless they find that they need to (savings to the budget).
Yeah no problem.

They do the same thing here; next year's budget depends on how much was used last year kind of thing. And they put it down when they don't really need it all the time. It drives me nuts. My uncle used to live in Yellowknife (Northwest territories, like super-north). Most of the time it's too cold up there for the salt to be effective. So they just use sand. Its no slipperier than wet pavement when there's lots of sand around.

He was driving a late 80s Nissan pickup last time I was there, (you know how those were for rust...) and it didn't have a spot on it. Over 20 years old, never rustproofed, and always winter driven. For all 9 months of winter up there. Sand, man! Plus it doesn't salinate the local watershed (which is becoming a problem; just read a new government study about it today).
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2002 Honda Accord V6 Coupe, "Connie", 474,000km
2000 Honda Accord V6 Coupe, "Midnight", 201,000km
1987 Merkur XR4Ti Turbo, 303,000km
1988 RHD Mazda RX7 Turbo, 101,000km
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  #25  
Old 04-13-2017, 12:54 AM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Originally Posted by Connie View Post
Yeah no problem.

They do the same thing here; next year's budget depends on how much was used last year kind of thing. And they put it down when they don't really need it all the time. It drives me nuts. My uncle used to live in Yellowknife (Northwest territories, like super-north). Most of the time it's too cold up there for the salt to be effective. So they just use sand. Its no slipperier than wet pavement when there's lots of sand around.

He was driving a late 80s Nissan pickup last time I was there, (you know how those were for rust...) and it didn't have a spot on it. Over 20 years old, never rustproofed, and always winter driven. For all 9 months of winter up there. Sand, man! Plus it doesn't salinate the local watershed (which is becoming a problem; just read a new government study about it today).
Problem with that thought is population. I bet out there in Yelowknife, they don't see half the traffic you do on an average morning drive (it's pretty rural out there). If they dropped sand where you live in the morning, they'd have to make several passes just for the morning commute, then more later in the morning, followed by even more in the afternoon. Now you're starting to talk a lot of man hours. I'm all for saving sheet metal, but at what cost? I just prefer to have a dedicated "salt sucker", and park my nice rides. It's either that, or move to Brownsville, or California where they don't use salt on the roads. Do you know where they get that salt for roadways and your table? Yup, right under the Great Lakes, and it's made in Michigan.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #26  
Old 04-13-2017, 08:20 AM
Connie Connie is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Originally Posted by Rusty Accord View Post
Problem with that thought is population. I bet out there in Yelowknife, they don't see half the traffic you do on an average morning drive (it's pretty rural out there). If they dropped sand where you live in the morning, they'd have to make several passes just for the morning commute, then more later in the morning, followed by even more in the afternoon. Now you're starting to talk a lot of man hours. I'm all for saving sheet metal, but at what cost? I just prefer to have a dedicated "salt sucker", and park my nice rides. It's either that, or move to Brownsville, or California where they don't use salt on the roads. Do you know where they get that salt for roadways and your table? Yup, right under the Great Lakes, and it's made in Michigan.
There used to be a Sifto salt mine outside of Goderich near where I grew up, right on the shore of Lake Huron. Leaving it in the ground is different than spreading it all over the place. Same thing with any natural resource, I suppose.

Here's an article about some of the salinity issues in the watersheds in our region, just in case you're interested.
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/techn...rticle4352353/

I heard Wisconsin uses cheese production by-products now, and other states are using beet juice as a trial.

You're right about the population being an issue though. Especially the GTA and the Golden Horseshoe; almost half the population of Canada lives there! And trust me, traffic is chaos here. But the difference in how cars held up way up there in the NWT blew my mind. It's also drier there, which helps.

My Accords are my salt-suckers because there's nothing I can do about the situation, and they do their jobs pretty well.
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2002 Honda Accord V6 Coupe, "Connie", 474,000km
2000 Honda Accord V6 Coupe, "Midnight", 201,000km
1987 Merkur XR4Ti Turbo, 303,000km
1988 RHD Mazda RX7 Turbo, 101,000km

Last edited by Connie; 04-13-2017 at 08:22 AM.
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  #27  
Old 04-16-2017, 09:34 PM
Blazinqwickly Blazinqwickly is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

I just looked again, it is pretty clean inside for a tan interior of it's age, I really want to see the progression, I am starting to get F series fever.
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  #28  
Old 04-16-2017, 11:21 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Originally Posted by Blazinqwickly View Post
I just looked again, it is pretty clean inside for a tan interior of it's age, I really want to see the progression, I am starting to get F series fever.
Well, 7/8th's of it is tan. The rear seat back is blue, as I bought a used 1 from a semi-local salvage yard for 40 bucks, to replace the original tan one that had the rear head rests eaten by a dog (I guess it was hungry). It's Ok with me, as the colors inside don't bother me if they don't match. It was supposed to be gray though, not blue when I talked to him on the phone.

Anyway, I got enough done on the TA this weekend, that I'm finally able to get the 99 into the garage. This means I can work on getting it up in the air, and work on dropping the rear sub so I can change the fuel tank. YEAH. This IS something I've been wanting to do for at least the last 3 weeks, but have been laid up with a shoulder injury (torn rotator cuff). It's finally starting to not hurt as bad, and I'm off the meds so I've even had a beer (or 3) this weekend. Was looking at how dirty the car was, since it still has it's layer of winter dirt (from the melting snow) on it (thinking about cleaning it up since it was in the shop). Just gotta try and not over do it is all. I'll be following Connie's thread on dropping it, although I'm going to have to improvise where my drums are related in that his car/thread covered doing disc brakes. Everything, or at least most everything else should be the same.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #29  
Old 04-17-2017, 09:19 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Well, Michigan weather changed again. Was supposed to be 68* today. Problem is that was supposed to happen at 12:01 AM. All day long the temp has been dropping like a rock (covered in ice), and now were down to 38* with a windchill making it feel like 32*. I can't catch a break. So about all I could do is go out and take a quick pic or 3 for the forum.
Here's what it looks like when I open the garage door.

Next time I'll try and put the TA on it's side for a better pic effect.
Here's what I see looking out the garage door (down my driveway).

Nice view, it's even starting to green up around here...finally.
And here's a shot for Blazin, as he was starting to like the tan interior.

Like I said, the OE seat back got the headrests ate by a dog, so I needed to fix that. I re-used my side bolsters, rear seat back frame, locking hatch panel (behind the armrest), and just moved the foam and cloth from 1 set to the other, as the steel seat back frame was rusty as hell from the rear window being out of the parts car.
Well, we're supposed to warm up again tuesday, so we'll see if I get any work done on it then. My shoulder really hates the cold, and I'm probably going to be laying on it.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #30  
Old 04-18-2017, 09:21 AM
Blazinqwickly Blazinqwickly is offline
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Re: Rusty Accord's 99 Sedan LX F23A4 w/5speed (56K)

Is that a lil self made rotisserie for the T/A ? Or a stand made to work around the body easier? Either way that is pretty sweet that you can use a engine stand and a lil engineering to make it work.

I see what you mean about the color not matching, but thankfully it is all there and not half eaten lol. If need be you could always have it re-stitched with the proper tan color, plenty of that to go around in the world thankfully and it would only be that little section you need, cuts down on the cost.
If you are worried about it matching, you can always scrub or steam (sometimes both lol)the interior to brighten it up to a newer finish, but from your pictures it already looks pretty good so hopefully it would not need a ton of effort.

Fingers crossed the weather gives you a break
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