Cluster &a Windows fuse issue
- Thread starter TedMicer
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RedRyder
Save the manuals
You checked your grounds too?
SupraGuy
Well-Known Member
Well, there should be nowhere that a bad ground can cause a blown fuse. If anything, it would cause there to be not enough current.
Do both fuses go at the same time, or do both just blow? Unfortunately, I'm less familiar with the electrical layout of the Accord, so I don't know where there may be common points, but that would be a big clue. If both fuses blow at the same time, then you're looking for something that's cross-wired. The window circuit should be heavier than the gauge circuit, and should have a larger fuse.
Personally, I might not notice the window fuse right away, but I would notice the gauge fuse pretty quickly while driving, since I do keep an eye on the instruments. Does it happen at particular times, like right after starting, or while driving, say hitting a bump?
Do both fuses go at the same time, or do both just blow? Unfortunately, I'm less familiar with the electrical layout of the Accord, so I don't know where there may be common points, but that would be a big clue. If both fuses blow at the same time, then you're looking for something that's cross-wired. The window circuit should be heavier than the gauge circuit, and should have a larger fuse.
Personally, I might not notice the window fuse right away, but I would notice the gauge fuse pretty quickly while driving, since I do keep an eye on the instruments. Does it happen at particular times, like right after starting, or while driving, say hitting a bump?
SupraGuy
Well-Known Member
When the washer pump engages, the wipers shouldn't stop.
I'd want more information as to when the fuse blows. Do the wipers have anything to do with blowing the fuse?
As I said, I'm not too familiar with the Honda electrical system. In my Toyotas, the power windows have a circuit breaker, which can be reset, though it's a pain to get to the breaker. (Same breaker also covers the power seats.)
Fuses only pop for a few reasons. The most common is someone poking around and accidentally grounding something while working on the car, but that's not a recurring thing.
The next would be a shorted wire. These are usually where there's a pinch point, or a through-hole where a wire passes through a panel between supply and accessory. These can be harder to locate because the wire by necessity passes close to the panel, usually inside a grommet which can appear to be okay on a cursory inspection. These will fall into a category of a fuse that will last for a while, then blow, or will blow in conjunction with a physical shock, like the car going over a bump, or opening/closing a door, or moving a panel.
Sometimes, other things have been tapped into circuits. Aftermarket accessories like remote starters, alarm systems, or audio systems can be tapped into an inappropriate circuit and increase the draw on a circuit beyond what the fuse capacity is. Often times, the fuse blows when something it turned on (or turned up.)
The last situation where fuses go is where a component is broken down and taking more power than it should. In the case of the instrument panel, this is unlikely unless you're also seeing something unusual on the dash. The indicator lights are either on or off. The gauges use a variable amount of current, but there should be enough capacity for their normal range of current draw.
I'd want more information as to when the fuse blows. Do the wipers have anything to do with blowing the fuse?
As I said, I'm not too familiar with the Honda electrical system. In my Toyotas, the power windows have a circuit breaker, which can be reset, though it's a pain to get to the breaker. (Same breaker also covers the power seats.)
Fuses only pop for a few reasons. The most common is someone poking around and accidentally grounding something while working on the car, but that's not a recurring thing.
The next would be a shorted wire. These are usually where there's a pinch point, or a through-hole where a wire passes through a panel between supply and accessory. These can be harder to locate because the wire by necessity passes close to the panel, usually inside a grommet which can appear to be okay on a cursory inspection. These will fall into a category of a fuse that will last for a while, then blow, or will blow in conjunction with a physical shock, like the car going over a bump, or opening/closing a door, or moving a panel.
Sometimes, other things have been tapped into circuits. Aftermarket accessories like remote starters, alarm systems, or audio systems can be tapped into an inappropriate circuit and increase the draw on a circuit beyond what the fuse capacity is. Often times, the fuse blows when something it turned on (or turned up.)
The last situation where fuses go is where a component is broken down and taking more power than it should. In the case of the instrument panel, this is unlikely unless you're also seeing something unusual on the dash. The indicator lights are either on or off. The gauges use a variable amount of current, but there should be enough capacity for their normal range of current draw.
SupraGuy
Well-Known Member
Okay, looking at the service manual, page 22-90, the back up lights take power from that fuse, going through a relay. There is a green/white wire that goes to the back-up lights, and will go through pretty much the length of the chassis. The relay itself should be internal to the fuse box, so little opportunity to cause a problem there. The fuse supplies power to the lights themselves.
The diagram on 22-60 shows that that fuse also powers most of the instrument panel, so there are many places that this could cause a problem. One of the longer runs here seems to show that a wire goes to the VSS that could have caused a problem. It should be pretty immediately apparent when the fuse goes, is it periodic, constant, or related to any kind of event? (Like, putting the car in reverse, for instance?)
The diagram on 22-60 shows that that fuse also powers most of the instrument panel, so there are many places that this could cause a problem. One of the longer runs here seems to show that a wire goes to the VSS that could have caused a problem. It should be pretty immediately apparent when the fuse goes, is it periodic, constant, or related to any kind of event? (Like, putting the car in reverse, for instance?)
