BadgerType
Resident ***hole
THIS WEEK HAS SUCKED!!!!
im making a new thread so i dont thread jack this one anymore: F series
i already wrote a half of this last night before my windows crashed << ftl
lets discuss my nitrous setup first off. i bought a used NOS kit off a coworker for 120. it came with a dual solenoid setup, all wiring and a purge valve. 36 n20 jet with a 42 bypass valve.
a quick local wtb thread got me a 10lb bottle and switches for 100 bux from a former cd owner.
i did the pre install at work this past sat, 2-11. mounted the solenoids to my strutbar. i also did the pre planning for my switches and where the bottle will be.
i placed an order to summit racing to get the parts i needed. a 14ft -4 an line, a 50 shot and 4 ngk ZFR7F-11 spark plugs for abt $80. they all came in on wednesday and i continued the install.
i decided to mount the bottle in my cabin. before yall say it was stupid to mount it in the cabin instead of the trunk, let me explain why i did it. my trunk is going to be fully enclosed in a custom sub box and with the little room i have left back there, my batt relocation needs it. so the bottle is mounted between the passengers front and rear seats. i had only one bracket for now with free ones on the way. i ran the nitrous line parralel to the strut bar to hide it, ran it down along the fuel lines and up underneath the driver seat. i connected the ends and filled the hole up so it wouldnt rupture. this hole placement allows me to run it to the trunk to pass inspection.
drilling the hole for the jet was real easy, figuring out how far away to put it was hard. the instructions say no more then 6 inches away from the tb. i mounted it 12 inches away. i sacrificed tempature for better mixture.
now the wiring, it was a easy but i made it hard. the original kit came with a WOT switch but i didnot have the patience after 1 hr trying to find a good place to mount the switch. so i converted to a momentary switch instead. i only needed to run 3 wire through the firewall, purge, momentary and activation switch. i screwed this up to high heaven. during this install time, i wired the purge to the activation toggle by accident and fried the purge. i mean SMOKIN fried. so 25 bux to fix it, i believe... but still it happened.
after the fried purge i gave up for the day. the next morning i took my empty bottle to the shop where i was suppose to be dynoed at. they told me its 27 bux and to come back in 30 minutes and it will be ready. i come back.... they have none and wont get any until later that day or tomorrow. i call the other dyno shop and they said not untill friday. so i call the shop to ask if he knew anyone on that side of town that sold nitrous. he said no but reminded me of a former partner that sold NX kits right around the corner from where i was. i walk in, bottle on shoulder, and saw a familiar face. he hooked me up with the cheapest price in town and i was on my way.
hooked the bottle up then tested the system. i got some frostbite (lol, frostbite in fla) but got it installed. tested the wiring, made a few adjustments, but i was ready for action on this thursday evening except for one flaw.....
My brakes
for the past 5 wks or so, my brakes have progressivly gotten worse. around 2 wks ago, i got the metal on metal sound. this past tuesday, my inner brake pad on my pass. side fell out of my car..... fell out of my car.
i ordered Hawk hps and powerslot rotors from summit for abt 250.
install was done friday morning on the bad side. took out the old pad and found the first weird thing of the day. my outer pad had 3mm of pad left. the other was bare metal, but this had pad left. i blew this off as a fluke. oh and my inner shims were still there, but in no way reusable
got to the bloody screws and stripped those to bare nubs. i tried everything including breaking the rotor. this was done by threading screws into the other two holes unitll the rotor cracked. then a stroke of luck came in the form of my rotory tool and my glass bit. it came out so easy that way it wasnt even funny.
took off the old rotor and started to gasp. the bacck was completly pitted and scrached to hell. saw some piston damage but nothing that threw me off.
installed the new rotor and bracket. went to compress the piston.... and nothing. the cap was open but it wouldnt budge. I BROKE A FCUKING C CLAMP.
gettin tired so ill speed this up
bled the pass. brakes; took hammer to get piston back in; got new fluid in;
found out that bleeding by yourself is very hard.
figured out i need a need caliper since mine suffered from piston lock.
only installed one new brake pad an the old good pad
only did one side. test drove fine but ill buy a new caliper soon.
locked keys in car; didnt get them out till this morning.
PLAN to dyno monday
so tired now
if you want to learn more, ask questions to get your answers
im making a new thread so i dont thread jack this one anymore: F series
i already wrote a half of this last night before my windows crashed << ftl
lets discuss my nitrous setup first off. i bought a used NOS kit off a coworker for 120. it came with a dual solenoid setup, all wiring and a purge valve. 36 n20 jet with a 42 bypass valve.
a quick local wtb thread got me a 10lb bottle and switches for 100 bux from a former cd owner.
i did the pre install at work this past sat, 2-11. mounted the solenoids to my strutbar. i also did the pre planning for my switches and where the bottle will be.
i placed an order to summit racing to get the parts i needed. a 14ft -4 an line, a 50 shot and 4 ngk ZFR7F-11 spark plugs for abt $80. they all came in on wednesday and i continued the install.
i decided to mount the bottle in my cabin. before yall say it was stupid to mount it in the cabin instead of the trunk, let me explain why i did it. my trunk is going to be fully enclosed in a custom sub box and with the little room i have left back there, my batt relocation needs it. so the bottle is mounted between the passengers front and rear seats. i had only one bracket for now with free ones on the way. i ran the nitrous line parralel to the strut bar to hide it, ran it down along the fuel lines and up underneath the driver seat. i connected the ends and filled the hole up so it wouldnt rupture. this hole placement allows me to run it to the trunk to pass inspection.
drilling the hole for the jet was real easy, figuring out how far away to put it was hard. the instructions say no more then 6 inches away from the tb. i mounted it 12 inches away. i sacrificed tempature for better mixture.
now the wiring, it was a easy but i made it hard. the original kit came with a WOT switch but i didnot have the patience after 1 hr trying to find a good place to mount the switch. so i converted to a momentary switch instead. i only needed to run 3 wire through the firewall, purge, momentary and activation switch. i screwed this up to high heaven. during this install time, i wired the purge to the activation toggle by accident and fried the purge. i mean SMOKIN fried. so 25 bux to fix it, i believe... but still it happened.
after the fried purge i gave up for the day. the next morning i took my empty bottle to the shop where i was suppose to be dynoed at. they told me its 27 bux and to come back in 30 minutes and it will be ready. i come back.... they have none and wont get any until later that day or tomorrow. i call the other dyno shop and they said not untill friday. so i call the shop to ask if he knew anyone on that side of town that sold nitrous. he said no but reminded me of a former partner that sold NX kits right around the corner from where i was. i walk in, bottle on shoulder, and saw a familiar face. he hooked me up with the cheapest price in town and i was on my way.
hooked the bottle up then tested the system. i got some frostbite (lol, frostbite in fla) but got it installed. tested the wiring, made a few adjustments, but i was ready for action on this thursday evening except for one flaw.....
My brakes
for the past 5 wks or so, my brakes have progressivly gotten worse. around 2 wks ago, i got the metal on metal sound. this past tuesday, my inner brake pad on my pass. side fell out of my car..... fell out of my car.
i ordered Hawk hps and powerslot rotors from summit for abt 250.
install was done friday morning on the bad side. took out the old pad and found the first weird thing of the day. my outer pad had 3mm of pad left. the other was bare metal, but this had pad left. i blew this off as a fluke. oh and my inner shims were still there, but in no way reusable
got to the bloody screws and stripped those to bare nubs. i tried everything including breaking the rotor. this was done by threading screws into the other two holes unitll the rotor cracked. then a stroke of luck came in the form of my rotory tool and my glass bit. it came out so easy that way it wasnt even funny.
took off the old rotor and started to gasp. the bacck was completly pitted and scrached to hell. saw some piston damage but nothing that threw me off.
installed the new rotor and bracket. went to compress the piston.... and nothing. the cap was open but it wouldnt budge. I BROKE A FCUKING C CLAMP.
gettin tired so ill speed this up
bled the pass. brakes; took hammer to get piston back in; got new fluid in;
found out that bleeding by yourself is very hard.
figured out i need a need caliper since mine suffered from piston lock.
only installed one new brake pad an the old good pad
only did one side. test drove fine but ill buy a new caliper soon.
locked keys in car; didnt get them out till this morning.
PLAN to dyno monday
so tired now
if you want to learn more, ask questions to get your answers
nitrous is for cheap skates 
