I wrote the other guide on this last winter/spring, pretty much the same (See sig).
For those talking about ways to pull power, I found that mouser electronics actually sells a female connector with pins pre-soldered in, so you could make it very easy to install and go back to stock. Unfortunately I found these after I had stopped making the kits I was selling, which used wedge bulb connectors that plugged into the stock bulb socket.
The way younglemon wired it would work fine as long as it was wrapped/heatshrinked, the paint inside the trunk lid is very thin so you could short easily and blow the fuse (10amp on passenger's side I believe).
I don't remember the part number, but I measured the dimensions and it would be a perfect fit. I would look through it again to find it, but the catalog is *literally* 2200+ pages and %95 8-point font, so searching for it would take ages. Anyone who wishes to attempt this can get the catalog for free from their website however.
Bit OT but does anyone know what the weight behind the grey cover (centre back of the bootlid) is for??
Oh, Lemon, have you thought of drilling 2 holes to run the wires through the original lamp then just running silicone around the wires to seal it and avoid moisture.
I think that weight is so the trunklid opens properly, intended for the remote trunk option on EX's.
As for the seal, there is a think foam gasket on the OEM lamp, so the wires that come out still allow for a good seal. I wash my accord 2-3 times a month and have had my cathodes in for around 8 months with no issues.
I wonder if you could have got an empty socket
(at the bottom of this page for .29 cents)
and fitted your cathodes wires into it and just put it in the stock 194 socket with out splicing the cars wires.
I did this when I was selling cathode license plate kits, it works well. The only issue is that the bulb socket is inside the clear plastic shell, and you have to have the cables from the connector squeeze back through so they can get inside the trunk to connect to the cathode inverters. It's certainly a good idea though, I also used it as a good place to include diodes to prevent reverse current or shorts from improper polarity, which is much easier when using a wedge socket since they can fit either way. Anyone wsihing to use this method can buy the socket connectors here:
http://autolumination.com/194.htm
they are the second item from the bottom. I recommend hot glue to secure some small (20-22g) wire in the socket and out through the bottom. solder first, then insert, then glue and bend, snipping excess if necessary.
i like the 2 cathodes instead of one, i think the lexus has a similar set up no?
woulda ran it a bit differently, but hey if it works it works i guess
not gonna run into any issues when washing ur car?
Water is not an issue, the actual cathodes are fairly well sealed, and not effected by water regardless, as only one polarity is exposed (thin metal wire running along the length of the actual cathode tube. If the inverters get wet, then you are in trouble, and they will blow for sure. they sit inside the trunklid through, high and dry.