Million mile club

datechboss101

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I am thinking about making the CG look a bit luxury so that I don't have to hop over to Acura and get either a TL or RLX. Plus, I want to drive this till I die, so what is the best option? The first million miles target is just some motivation for me.
 

Nam1911a1

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SwAp some TL seats and wheels. I wish I could drive my car down to Georgia. My cousin has a TL he said I could have. It's begging for the j32 swap and interior swap.
 

datechboss101

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SwAp some TL seats and wheels. I wish I could drive my car down to Georgia. My cousin has a TL he said I could have. It's begging for the j32 swap and interior swap.
I might just swap the wheels and brake system from the TL, probably the TL from 04-08, but then custom order the seats, as I am planning to either wrap or paint the car in blue.

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Connie

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Man, a world without rust, you can totally make a million miles. Just be prepared to swap a transmission every few years and have a spare on hand.

I hit half a million km (~310k miles) last weekend, and only on transmission #2. Got a spare sitting in the shop just in case, but #2 is still shifting fine, and has been since 286k km.

When I stop driving it, it's going to be because of either rust or an accident. Anything mechanical is no big deal. Transmissions aren't overly difficult to re-and re in these things.

It really is too bad that the V6-six speeds didn't show up 'til 03 though; what a machine the 6g would have been if it came from the factory like that.
 

T.$.Racing

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Man, a world without rust, you can totally make a million miles. Just be prepared to swap a transmission every few years and have a spare on hand.

I hit half a million km (~310k miles) last weekend, and only on transmission #2. Got a spare sitting in the shop just in case, but #2 is still shifting fine, and has been since 286k km.

When I stop driving it, it's going to be because of either rust or an accident. Anything mechanical is no big deal. Transmissions aren't overly difficult to re-and re in these things.

It really is too bad that the V6-six speeds didn't show up 'til 03 though; what a machine the 6g would have been if it came from the factory like that.

Just out of curiosity... why not just go manual?
 

datechboss101

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Man, a world without rust, you can totally make a million miles. Just be prepared to swap a transmission every few years and have a spare on hand.

I hit half a million km (~310k miles) last weekend, and only on transmission #2. Got a spare sitting in the shop just in case, but #2 is still shifting fine, and has been since 286k km.

When I stop driving it, it's going to be because of either rust or an accident. Anything mechanical is no big deal. Transmissions aren't overly difficult to re-and re in these things.

It really is too bad that the V6-six speeds didn't show up 'til 03 though; what a machine the 6g would have been if it came from the factory like that.

I am looking at the amount of miles that I will be putting on the car and looks like it might be either 25k per year or 160k per 4 years (if I do Key West Fridays and weekends up in Orlando, starting from mid-summer 2018). My current location is Orlando, but it will change to either Gainesville, Tampa, Tallahassee, or Miami, depending on which college I go to.

Transmission rebuilds are expected throughout this journey, and I am sure that there isn't any rust on the car, as I am literally on top of maintenance and stuff (lately dad doesn't want to do any more repairs for the car for remainder of year, yet the wheel bearings are getting worse now and the on-going saga of the front passenger CV axle leak, plus she's due for an oil change and tire rotation too); also, the car was literally maintained at the stealership. Typically, how long does the first transmission 4AT last before the second transmission is needed?

Also, I am planning to make the car feel and look luxurious (even though its a safe 90s Honda) so that I won't have that tireness feeling.
 
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Connie

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Just out of curiosity... why not just go manual?

I might in the green coupe I picked up last week. I've been doing a bit of reading and poking around for a 6-speed donor car but I have some more important things that need to be taken care of before I get to play with my toys. Life and such. Time is the biggest factor; until I get the tax man off my back, I don't have any.

It's straightforward and quick to replace the transmission, and Connie is my daily, and never has a day off. She just needs to work, and be easy and straightforward to fix when something does break. I can't afford to be without a car, and Connie is my donkey. And one transmission replacement in 500,567km seems pretty acceptable to me.

But hopefully, one day, I have the time to spend a few weeks in the shop getting one of these 6g Accords 6-6 swapped lol.
 

Connie

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I am looking at the amount of miles that I will be putting on the car and looks like it might be either 25k per year or 160k per 4 years (if I do Key West Fridays and weekends up in Orlando, starting from mid-summer 2018). My current location is Orlando, but it will change to either Gainesville, Tampa, Tallahassee, or Miami, depending on which college I go to.

Transmission rebuilds are expected throughout this journey, and I am sure that there isn't any rust on the car, as I am literally on top of maintenance and stuff (lately dad doesn't want to do any more repairs for the car for remainder of year, yet the wheel bearings are getting worse now and the on-going saga of the front passenger CV axle leak, plus she's due for an oil change and tire rotation too); also, the car was literally maintained at the stealership. Typically, how long does the first transmission 4AT last before the second transmission is needed?

Also, I am planning to make the car feel and look luxurious (even though its a safe 90s Honda) so that I won't have that tireness feeling.

With where you live, rust shouldn't be an issue for you. You lucky effer.

My first transmission lasted until I had 334k km (~214k miles), but it's history before I owned it is unknown; could have had the original fluid in it when I picked it up for all I know.

It was replaced from a scrapyard car with 260k km (~162k miles) on the clock.

That scrapyard transmission is still in there and still works at my current mileage of almost 501k km. I do a drain-and-fill every 30k km because of all the stories you hear about the transmissions failing, and perhaps that has helped it last. I like to think so; Honda DW-1 ATF ain't cheap.

Fix the broken stuff first; re-boot your leaky axle, do the wheel bearings and rotate your tires. Then get new fluids into the transmission, engine, brakes, and cooling system.

A hint for wheel bearings: throw them in the coldest freezer you have overnight before you try and press them in; if you do, they'll slide in fairly easily as long at the bore is clean and in good shape. I bought a drift punch with an attachment for bearings for like 15 bucks, and was able to tap in the frozen bearing using that and a small hammer, tapping GENTLY. Having a good vise helps. It's not good to shock a wheel bearing by whacking it, so just take your time. Press in a ball joint while you're at it; a decent ball joint press is cheaper than paying someone to do it for you, and it's a one-time expense. You're probably going to tear the ball joint boots when you take the knuckle off anyways.
 

datechboss101

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With where you live, rust shouldn't be an issue for you. You lucky effer.

My first transmission lasted until I had 334k km (~214k miles), but it's history before I owned it is unknown; could have had the original fluid in it when I picked it up for all I know.

It was replaced from a scrapyard car with 260k km (~162k miles) on the clock.

That scrapyard transmission is still in there and still works at my current mileage of almost 501k km. I do a drain-and-fill every 30k km because of all the stories you hear about the transmissions failing, and perhaps that has helped it last. I like to think so; Honda DW-1 ATF ain't cheap.

Fix the broken stuff first; re-boot your leaky axle, do the wheel bearings and rotate your tires. Then get new fluids into the transmission, engine, brakes, and cooling system.

A hint for wheel bearings: throw them in the coldest freezer you have overnight before you try and press them in; if you do, they'll slide in fairly easily as long at the bore is clean and in good shape. I bought a drift punch with an attachment for bearings for like 15 bucks, and was able to tap in the frozen bearing using that and a small hammer, tapping GENTLY. Having a good vise helps. It's not good to shock a wheel bearing by whacking it, so just take your time. Press in a ball joint while you're at it; a decent ball joint press is cheaper than paying someone to do it for you, and it's a one-time expense. You're probably going to tear the ball joint boots when you take the knuckle off anyways.
Never thought about putting the wheel bearings in the freezer would help make the job easier.

The car lived in Iowa, Pennsylvania, California, Arizona, and now Florida. So I am not sure on if there is any rust at all, plus the cv axle is still leaking, which I have to do that while replacing the wheel bearings at the same time. I have two other SUVs I can use while Lucky is being worked on, and I probably might have a few friends to help me on this job.

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Enne

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Or just buy a set of wheel hubs, as I've mentioned numerous times before, and just put them on. They're not that expensive and it takes like 10 minutes. Your dad obviously doesn't want to spend like $700 at the dealership for this repair, so tell him you guys can watch a video, rent a slide hammer and do it yourselves for $100 or so.

And if you don't, you're going to be paying a whole lot more when that bearing gives out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fe_WtKIKlYA
 
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