Enne's 1989 Honda Prelude Si 2.0 4WS

[Rusty Accord]

Originally Posted by Enne Yep, it's the same as turning the headlights on in the Accord, turning the stalk. Fog lights have a switch on the dash, next to a switch to make the headlights stay up, even if you turn the stalk to "off". I did three of the spark plugs lol. The second one, is either too short or needs a different socket or something because my 5/8 socket can't get to it. Also, this air tube (see photos) refuses to line up with the rubber part it connects to near the front of the car. It was halfway disconnected when I looked under the hood today. I was able to wrestle it back in, but barely. There is no way that I'm getting that air filter out on my own. There's so much stuff over and in front of it. I can't find a video or write-up of how to change one either.

Nothing in the owners manual?

[Enne]

No, nothing in the service or owner's manual about how to change the air filter, or what's up with the tubing.

Got an OEM radio in!

[Enne]

irst photo is after the car had been running for at least an hour and the thermostat was still dead cold. So I called my dad on the way up there and had him grab a thermostat and green silicate-free coolant for when I got there.

My dad got the air filter out and put the new one in, like it was nothing lol. The intake tube had to come out but after that he had it all back together quickly.

That spark plug I couldn't get out; turns out there was a big chunk of old spark plug wire burned fast to the bottom of the tube. It wasn't even a piece of the old wire that I took out, it was part of a different wire. So someone did change the spark plugs at some point, but they left that in there and shoved a new wire down in past it. We had to dig that piece out with a pair of hemostats. The ceramic part of the plug was cracked a bit too. Old plug and piece of rubber are in the fourth photo.

When we took the dizzy cap and rotor off, we found that the screw in the rotor was totally stripped. The fifth photo is of what we had to do to get it out... Cut part of the rotor off and then use various tools to get out. There was no way it was coming out with a screwdriver. Someone really worked it over, then gave up on it and left it that way. But now there's a nice new cap, rotor and screw in there lol.

Also changed the ATF and oil. The old oil seemed to be conventional. I replaced it with Quaker State 10W-30 high mileage full synthetic, put on a Fram Ultra oil filter, and did another ATF drain and fill with Valvoline Max Life. Last photo is of the oil filter that was on it previously.

The car reaches and stays at operating temp now and I can turn the heat on lol. Seems to run better at higher speeds too; it doesn't go over 3100 RPM @ 65 MPH now, just a hair under 3000 now and it doesn't seem to be struggling at highway speed.

Next is to clean the upholstery (I got a can of Blue Coral upholstery cleaner, which I know works well), then motor/trans mounts and body work. After that it's getting a full exterior detail and paint correction.

[Rusty Accord]

Glad you found your issue with that spark plug.
Man, that rotor screw looks beat. I've only seen 1 other like it (my son's 98 Civic). We found it doing a tune up.
If the filter on the left was supposed to look like the filter on the right, it was really dirty.

[Enne]

Originally Posted by Rusty Accord Man, that rotor screw looks beat. If the filter on the left was supposed to look like the filter on the right, it was really dirty.

Yeah it was destroyed. Dad said it was stripped, so I told him to try my brand new screwdriver. I couldn't see how bad it was and he was like "No screwdriver is ever going to turn this screw ever again" lol. So out came the grinder and pliers. Had to do something similar with Selene's sway bar links that the bolts rusted fast to.

The old filter was a green Fram filter. New one is a red filter, I forget the brand already lol.

Hoping to apply glaze to the paint, clean the EGR and trans solenoids this weekend. It's supposed to be good and warm out.

[Sketch o5]

Originally Posted by Enne Had to do something similar with Selene's sway bar links that the bolts rusted fast to.

cutting tools are part of the standard removal procedure for honda endlinks really though. that's the only way i ever got any of them off, aside from beginners luck the first time i did accord suspension on my first 6g.

[Enne]

The entire car is shaking at idle (only after running for a few minutes), and then it disappears the second I step on the gas. The car has also stalled and turned completely off the past two cold starts. Then when the key is turned a second time, it starts right up and has no issues aside from the shaking. If the car is shifted into neutral the shaking stops though, so I'm really thinking it's the motor mounts. I am hoping to have at least the front one replaced soon.

I fixed the clock and trunk light issues. Changed the fuse under the hood for the clock. And just because I was in there I changed the 10A fuse labeled "ECU" as well. Clock seems to be keeping time now.

Here were the symptoms that changing the clock fuse fixed:
Issue 1:
The digital clock in the dash doesn't keep time when the car is turned off. Like if I set it to the right time, then turn the car off and come back it hasn't changed. But if the car is running it'll keep time. It would also dim dramatically after turning the headlights on.

Issue 2:
The "trunk open" warning light on the gauge cluster comes and stays on whenever the car is on. It only started doing this after I took out the old aftermarket CD player.

So, I'm glad at least those are fixed. Now to replace motor mounts and clean the EGR valve. Hopefully that will clear up the CEL that's on for EGR issues.