P0141 CEL after o2 Replacement

OK, long story short I took my car to a repair shop about my wheel stud. In the process of pulling my car through the bay, they ripped out my secondary o2 sensor and destroyed the wiring. I have a Megan resonator, so the bung is pointing down. Never scraped a thing, even with the Non-Fouler trick. They replaced it with a Bosch sensor after the CEL came on(P0141), of course that didn't fix it. I could have told them that. So they ordered me a Honda sensor and put that in. Now the code still persists. I had them put in a Weapon-R CEL Eliminator at the same time because it's an elbow instead of pointing straight down.

I've tried every combo of the Weapon-R, the Non-Foulers, and both together. All to no avail, I'm stumped. Im leaning towards that they may have shorted something in the ECU or otherwise. I've traced the wires back to the main harness and all is well with the wiring.

OK, this wasn't a short story. But I wanted everyone to have the full backstory. Any help would be greatly appreciated. They've payed for everything so far, and I just wanted some ideas on what might fix this.

P.S. P0141 is for the Secondary Heated o2 Sensor Heater Circuit fault.

Might be the cat?

That's weird that you replaced the sensor, and did the fouler trick and the code is still there.
Maybe ask a Honda tech what could be the problem

I've been running my Megan Test Pipe for at least a month before all this happened with the non-fouler with no code. If it was the resonator, it should throw a P0420. Im soo stumped. Im giong to get under there tomorrow with my multimeter and check the continuity of the heater circuit as well as the voltage going to the heater.

Ok, the sensor itself tested correctly coming in at 13ohms, same as the original. Haynes says between 10-40 ohms. BUT, the part numbers are not the same. The original is 234000-2030, the new one is 234000-2031. Im leaning on jwellers thought that the sensors are not the same between the different years. Also, the bottom numbers are not the same either.

Im getting 12V to the heater circuit. Although, when I used the ground on the PCM side of the sensor harness I couldn't get a stable reading. I used the negative battery post, clean 12V reading. I don't know if that has something to do with the fact that the ECU doesnt take a reading in open loop, think that might be affecting the problem?? Haynes doesn't say to even use the ground on the harness, but when I tried using it it was all over the place. Not putting much weight into it.

**** it and tuck it!

So I take it you tried to clear the light somehow and it comes back? Just checking, don't want you to think the light will go away just like that. Either reset the batery or clear the code using an OBD II scanner, you can also pull out the clock back up fuse too.