2 Misfire CELs after valve adjustment during hard acceleration

I changed my brakes and when I went to break them in, I did some 0-60 runs and when my car hit redline in Gear 1, the CEL started blinking, but went away after shifts.

Today I investigated and put it into gear 1 and ran it to 6k and when the light started flashing I let off the gas and the CEL is still there. I came home and did the OBD connecter thing and I filmed it and looked at it now. The ABS connector also blink, but I didn't get that.

It loops:

11111110 111111100
11111110 111111100
11111110 111111100
11111110 111111100
11111110 111111100

Which is
71 72


71 P0301 Misfire Cyl. 1 Or Random Misfire
72 P0302 Misfire Cyl. 2 Or Random Misfire


My question is, what now? Is it because of the valve adjustment I did?
I bought some NGK Iridum and Accel Distributor + Rotor and Wires, they come next week. Is it ok to drive it for now?

damn no one knows?
i have to get to school tomorrow!

i would do another valve-adjustment just to make sure you did it right the 1st time or have a mechanic do it 4 you
i would suggest taking it easy and if you have another car that you can use, use it!!!!

I hope u didnt over tighten your valves. Your supposed to do a valve check if u hear clattering, the valves should be adjusted when cold... And not too tight since thing expand when hot.

OK I am going to redo the valves as soon as my new feeler gauges come. And likewise with the plugs.

I really don't think its the valves... They are pretty quiet, its just the fuel injectors that are kind of loud.

When I reset the CEL, it stays off until I once again accelerated with WOT. The engine does not shake or make weird noises at any RPM range. Although sometimes, at a stop, etc the RPM goes to the usual ~800 and keeps going down to the point where the car starts to vibrate a little (~200RPM). It's never stalled like this, but I can make it stall if I rev the engine (neutral/park) to 2000RPM and let go of gas. When the RPM comes down, it starts to stall and if I don't do anything it won't stall. However, if I immediately push the gas to WOT, the engine stalls, but starts up pretty easily.

I unplugged the spark plug wires (while hot idle) one by one and each time it makes the engine shake (according to friend that means no misfire).

So then I took out the cyl#1 spark plug and they seemed to have a matte dark grey coating on them and the metal side was a little uneven on one edge. same with cyl#2.

Then I took out the distributor cap and the metal things in it had some powdery white coating. And there was few dead spiders (small) and some red powder on the bottom. The rotor seemed kind of worn as well. Replacement is on its way.



What I have done recently:
-Magnaflow catback
-Valve lash adjustment
-Brake Rotors + Pads
-Added some 10W-30 (dipstick seems right... maybe a little high)
After I added that I had the hood open and I reved a little and a very small amount of coolant sprayed out of radiator cap. Never happened again and coolant temp is normal.
-Also when i did the strut bar, I took out the fuel thing above engine and it just sits unbolted to frame

SOME PICS:
http://img443.imageshack.us/g/img0055pq.jpg/

shameless self bump...
i need suggestions....

you should try cleaning your throttle body and intake manifold. this will help your engine breathe better

i cant really tell but the 3rd pic from left(the pic of the spark plug) looks different from the other 2 pics of the spark plug
here is a guide on how you can tell what going on in your engine
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread2.asp?mode=nml
those spark plugs look really healthy to me though/ like normal wear you probably just need to replace which you are
do you got any pics of the distributer by any chance and all that dust you were talkin bout?

How many miles on the car? those plugs look old, also from what you described is a developing electrical short somewhere. Your plugs,rotor,cap and wires should take care of it.


Buy a new radiator cap, if its leaking...it means its not holding the pressure. You run the risk of overheating your car, my original cap went at about 111k. Couldnt really complain....its like $15 for an OEM one on ebay.

All right, thanks for the suggestions.

Last night I unplugged the battery because theres a chance it might be the idle learn procedure or what not and i unplugged it for like 6 hours.

I am going to clean the intake, egr, iacv and throttle body this weekend. I was going to do it earlier, but I didn't have a good socket that would reach there.

As for the difference in pics, one is cyl 1 one is cyl2.
They definitely looked worn out according to the NGK pics. And maybe running a little too rich? Idk Like i said they have a sort of dark grey coating, but it might also be because no one has maintained this car... ever. The electrode at first I thought was the higher end NGKs with the smaller tip, but I think it might have just worn off. and the other metal end is kind of worn off on the sides.

Like 110k miles. Parents bought the car with like 60-70k, only a few oil changes done until I took over.

Yea, I'll see, at first I freaked out because I thought the oil I added got into the coolant, but the color looks right.

Hopefully its just these minor issues.

NGK iridium
Accel wires
Mr. Gasket distributor.

I'll take a pic of the old one when I'm changing it.


Also curious about the timing belt. If I take it to a mechanic and provide parts, how much $$ am I looking at? and how can I tell if mine is worn out? All the rubber "gears" seemed fine and there were no cracks on the out shell.