Lower control arm shock fork bolt stuck!

xmsleepr · May 10, 2011

so im trying to replace my shocks and the bolt that goes on the shock fork thru the lower control arm is stuck the nut comes out but the bolt doesnt and when i used the breaker bar i could see the bushing turning with it and the 5lb hammer just damaged the thread so now i cant even put the nut back on... i torched it up for a whole minute also and hammered it and still nothing...

what are my options to fixing this?!

sabSquishy · May 10, 2011

I attacked mine with wd40 and stuck an allen wrench in the hole and hammered it out. Doesn't sound as worse as you though. Try moving your rotor up or down to relieve some tension.

TUBHMOOBVAJ · May 10, 2011

I was having the same issue when I was swapping my oem shocks to F&F coilovers. I sprayed BP blaster and let it soaked in it for a good 2 hrs, it finally came off.

ryan s · May 10, 2011

Grab a thick screwdriver, a hammer, and wiggle the hub...use some muscle.

Then have a friend give you a ride to the dealership to get a a new bolt...

GoldnKnight22 · May 10, 2011

omg, i still have nightmares about that lower bolt in the rear. mine was seized as a mother****er!!!!!

it took pb blaster, an impact gun, i believe a torch, a new bolt.... and i forget what else. lol.

001Stunna · May 10, 2011

GoldnKnight22 said:
omg, i still have nightmares about that lower bolt in the rear. mine was seized as a mother****er!!!!!

it took pb blaster, an impact gun, i believe a torch, a new bolt.... and i forget what else. lol.

I believe we cut my oem shock lower mount part to get the rear passenger off on the bottom, bolt wouldnt move for the sake of it and time was running out.

xmsleepr · May 10, 2011

that bolt has seem WD40 and PB blaster for days I even light up the PB blaster with the torch and then turn the bolt red on both sides and hit it with the 5lb hammer its the 17mm on the bottom of the shock fork on the front driver side BTW...

Ghost Ryder · May 10, 2011

Your situation sucks....been there. Since the bolt is probably trashed: I would suggest going to the hardware store. Getting a piece of round stock. (A plain ol' piece of solid round steel.) Make sure it is as large as possible in thickness, but no bigger than the bolt. You may have to cut it down to a usable length to make it practical in application. Rest the rod on the end of the bolt that is threaded. Use sufficient force with a good sized hammer to push the bolt back.
Also: The fork will have pressure on it from the spring. if your car is on a jack stand, CAREFULLY use a floor jack to put slight lift on the control arm. try to find a nuetral spot in the suspension travel that alows the most play with the bolt.
If the bolt is bent in ANY WAY you may have to cut the head off, and the threaded end to remove it. For future refrence, use Anti-size when ever you service that particular bolt on your suspension. Hope this book helps....lol

xmsleepr · May 10, 2011

Ghost Ryder said:
Your situation sucks....been there. Since the bolt is probably trashed: I would suggest going to the hardware store. Getting a piece of round stock. (A plain ol' piece of solid round steel.) Make sure it is as large as possible in thickness, but no bigger than the bolt. You may have to cut it down to a usable length to make it practical in application. Rest the rod on the end of the bolt that is threaded. Use sufficient force with a good sized hammer to push the bolt back.
Also: The fork will have pressure on it from the spring. if your car is on a jack stand, CAREFULLY use a floor jack to put slight lift on the control arm. try to find a nuetral spot in the suspension travel that alows the most play with the bolt.
If the bolt is bent in ANY WAY you may have to cut the head off, and the threaded end to remove it. For future refrence, use Anti-size when ever you service that particular bolt on your suspension. Hope this book helps....lol

sounds good what difference does it make hitting the bolt with a stock than str8 on the end with the hammer? right now im thinking worst come to worse what are my options? i can cut the head off and the thread that come out the other side and try to hit it with the rod like that but if that doesnt work whats left for me to do?

how easy would it me for me to insert a new bushing into the LCA with it still installed in the car?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-TRW_18511519-P_2069_R|GRP60005_745418931____

Ghost Ryder · May 10, 2011

I niglected to mention that the rod should be used at a point where the bolt has been driven out as far as posibble. It would allow you to continue to push the bolt through with out interference with the surrounding hole its in.
None the less, the bolt HAS to come out to service the bushing. This is so you can remove the lower control arm from the car all together. To take it and have the old bushing pressed out by a machine shop, and the new one pressed in. I know I work at NAPA and I just bought the whole control arm, both sides, bushings and all.(For the front particularly) Then just bolted them back up.
If you go through with this you'll need to remove two bolts from the torsion bar (#25 in the illustration). The sway bar link nut (#21). The sub frame attachment bolt-to- lower control arm (#23). And the lower ball joint nut also. Not pictured. Have a ball joint seperator on hand for that. :smash: