New Problems, More Questions, Screwdriver In Hand!

[Metalp3n]

First off I apologize if some of these questions are a re-post from my original Introduce Yourself thread - that seemed to have died out and understandably so as it was meant to be an introduction thread - not a "how do I fix this" thread.

So with that said, new list of headaches:

Something is up with the cars electrical system. My battery is brand new. My voltage stays level - yet turning on a window motor dims every light including the headlights.

My interior LED's in the dash have mostly blown - which is upsetting and rather surprising as these LED's usually don't ... Then again they're not made for dash lights either. So I'm thinking between two different solutions. First buy new bulbs from superbrightleds.com and replace them. Second - buy a set of pre-wired LEDs from oznium and run my own line of them -splicing into the dash lights power and running a ground myself down to battery negative as I am convinced this car has horrible grounding.

Speaking of - my passenger headlight randomly doesn't work. Seemingly only when it's cold outside. The fix? Wiggle it a bit.

My passenger side blinker sometimes doesn't work either. The fix? Turn the car off - wait a few minutes - turn the car back on.

I'll check the wiring harness and take it from there. I've been meaning to go the HID route anyway. Anyone with past issues like this?

If I'm low on gas, and parked on some sort of a sideways slant - like the side of the road where you're supposed to park which is usually on some sort of slant - the car seems to not want to turn on and stay on. It feels like my G35 would with the TB acting up, or the MAF sensor being shot. The fix? I sit there maintaining minimal revs so it doesn't die out - get it into gear - drive a block or sometimes two. It's fine. Then I get gas.

My driver side front shock squeals and creaks like it's begging for its life under the weight of the world.

My driver side rear brake doesn't work. I have diagnosed this by the several layers of rust on the caliper, and rotor with none of it clearing where the pad makes contact with the rotor - assuming because it never does.

Actually both rear calipers and rotors are horribly rusty. At least on the passenger side one the rust clears where the pad makes contact with the rotor.

Ideas with any of this?

 

[FNCONE]

Electrical

1. if the battery is new, i would check ALL connections and major ground points. make sure no loose or rusted, dirty connections.
2. you can also check if your losing voltage or bad ground (a little more complicated if not wire happy type of person) when the light is out go to the front passenger and with a multimeter check if you have battery voltage and continuity to ground (not sure the colors, black is ground but i think headlights have different colors)
3. as for the dimming, you said this is a new list of headaches? aftermarket radio system? check your getting good alt. output. has your cluster ever lighted up all doors, trunk, battery, and brake lights?
most of your issues are with the passenger side light, start from there, their is a ground point next to that light (in my case behind the ABS module v6, if your 4 banger behind the intake) make sure nothing loose or wires nicked or cut.
start there...

my car acted funny once, at the fuse box the wire coming from the alternator was lose...im not saying this is your problem but its to show u how simple the fix was,...most people don't check this connection... electrical trouble shooting is a PTA.

The fact that your LED blew tells me you had a short or had a surge... the dash lights that weren't LED still work?

electrical troubleshooting on the web is not easy... good luck



GAS

lol add gas to your car



BRAKES

i had a similar issue, my driver rear was seized, check the "slide pins" (dont know the name) that usually get special grease....my rubber boot was loose and it got dirt and rusted i had to hammer out the pin clean it up get a new pin and new rubber boots

 

[Metalp3n]

1. The battery is new and the dash has all LEDs. No aftermarket HU. Aftermarket speakers however I had the dimming lights issue with the stock speakers aswell.

I will go through all the wiring as you said. Thanks so much!

Not all the LEDs blew. But yes I agree. Somewhere a short. By the way here's something interesting. If I keep the headlights always on - it has auto off - then the passenger side headlight always seems to work. Interesting. The blinker comes in and out.

 

[RedRyder]

For the blinker check the harness, and check the contacts inside the harness plug. My right front blinker goes in and out after a while, I have to bend the contacts upward every couple months. Need to just get a new harness plug lol.

 

[FNCONE]

1.
Not all the LEDs blew.

this gave me a twitch.... if its a short it would of blown the fuse... LEDs are polarity sensitive and power sensitive, meaning positive has to go on Pos. And - has to go with -, also if its 12v do not give it 20v (14v from alternator is fine) are your fuses correct? (meaning if its suppose to be 10A you have a 10A in there)
let us know see if we can figure this out
red ryder on point check those connects!!!

 

[Metalp3n]

Didn't get a chance to do this last night. However here's a new development. My "D4" light which hasn't worked since day one - suddenly is working now. I thought this whole time the bulb was dead ...

I ordered a few LEDs from SuperBrightLEDS but I do not think it's the fault of the LEDs really. To be honest it seems there may be a few electrical gremlins here.

So since last night I have kept my headlights simply "on" - which on my V6 EX automatically turns them about about 10 seconds after you lock the car and then turns them on as soon as you unlock the car. So long as I do this - both headlights work.

:?

 

[FNCONE]

try swapping your headlight relays if the problem starts with your drivers side it could be a relay on its way out...
when you get a chance try to check your grounds.
by this diagram if everything checks out you might want to check your multiplexers... does your trunk pop open with the FOB?

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[FNCONE]

As for your D4, please check your grounds!!!
If not looks like u can be dealing with range switch or ECU issues or simply fried your cluster, BUT PLEASE CHECK...
You can see from the diagram D4 is basically ecu controlled.
B16 from the gauge is grounded into the dimming circuit and the D4 circuit
TROUBLESHOOT and we will get closer to the problem.

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[Metalp3n]

Do you happen to have the diagram for the gauge cluster wiring/lighting as-well?

Thank you so much for all of this info! This past weekend was extremely busy, however this week I will find the time to start doing my troubleshooting.

BTW the trunk does pop open with the FOB.

 

[FNCONE]

You're Welcome.
Cool, if the trunk opened your passenger multiplex should be ok.
The lighting for the cluster is just 2 wires,
B22 Red/Black ,...and
B10 Red
is that what you needed?

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