My Sound System

[7ender]

Well, since I keep getting requests to post some pics of my sound system, I thought i'd do it now since i'm bored .

Iv'e had many setups now, but I only have pictures of a few so I thought I'd show how my system has evolved. I'm an active member over at the caraudio.com forums, so if you are too hit me up!

Anyways, don't have any pics of my early setups, but this was my third, and I ran it the longest of all my setups so far. It was pretty loud for what it was, being powered off about 1000 watts at the time. Did the Big 3 underhood as well.
12" Fi Q in 2.3@32hz

Then I decided to move on to some 15"s.
15" Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection in 4.0 @33hz. Honestly, wasn't that impressed with it so it only stayed in for about 2 weeks. I miss this box! Took me forever to make it...but look how nice it looks =)

But my friends were running hdc3's/Fi Bl's/and tc3k's, so I decided I needed to step it up a little and get some more power. Added a larger main battery (kinetik hc1800) and a second battery in the trunk, rewired everything from 4 gauge to 1/0, and added a second layer of deadener all around. Running about 2200 total watts rms now.
And then...15" Fi BTL in 4.4@32hz.

Oh..and of course, here is the current amplifier setup. Please excuse the messy wiring I figure it'll all be switched out soon enough anyways.

So that's what i'm currently at and iv'e been running it for about 6 months now. Pretty happy with it, but I would like to try out two 12's. Need more power though, and to do that i'm going to need a new alternator so we'll just have to wait and see where this goes...


So...

Current Setup
02 Honda Accord
Sub: 15" Fi BTL
Box: 4.4 ft^3 @32hz
Frontstage: Cadence CWM-6
Sub Amp: BXI2006d
Front Stage Amp: RF 450.2
Head Unit: Pioneer P3900MP
Deadener: RAAMat, ~65ft^2
Batteries: Front- Kinetik HC1800 Rear- Odyssey PC625
Wiring: 1/0 Knu Kolossus + Big 3

 

[EatSleepAccord]

wow BOOM BOOM i Like!!!

 

[SykVSyx]

At little critical if you consider that messy wiring.

The 'tube' is interesting, don't think I have seen many setups like that.

Why that over a slotted port?

 

[7ender]

It's called an aero port

They're more efficient in that the port can be smaller to achieve equal tuning, so they take up less volume and allow for a smaller box. In theory, they also cause less air turbulence and in some applications can make for a louder setup.

 

[ryan s]

So that's what i'm currently at and iv'e been running it for about 6 months now. Pretty happy with it (hence I haven't been active on here for awhile), but I would like to try out two 12's. Need more power though, and to do that i'm going to need a new alternator so we'll just have to wait and see where this goes...

we were just having this discussion on DIYMA this morning

this is going backwards. i'm not saying it's wrong per se, but its the biggest myth in car audio these days. you don't need more power to get louder. driver choice and enclosure choice are crucial, the number of watts is near the bottom of the list.

 

[SykVSyx]

'aero port'....cool, now I know.

Just takes up alot of room in the trunk, unfortunately.

Mind you, so does my setup(which I need to take pics of as well).

Sorry if I missed it, but have you gotten each of your setup rated?

 

[7ender]

Well part of the point of it is actually to take up less of the trunk...the way I have mine setup though just makes it stick out of the box, they dont' always do that. The box above it (the black one) is also aero ported, but the port is all inside the box.

If by rated you mean metered, no my current setup has not been metered. I would estimate i'm around a 144-145db at ~40hz. Could go louder if I tuned higher for the test tones used when metering spl.

 

[SykVSyx]

Yes, metered.....good numbers.

I haven't bothered with my current setup, it's not set up for SPL, but if I decide to rebuild the box, then I would probably go with a ported box.

 

[7ender]

we were just having this discussion on DIYMA this morning

this is going backwards. i'm not saying it's wrong per se, but its the biggest myth in car audio these days. you don't need more power to get louder. driver choice and enclosure choice are crucial, the number of watts is near the bottom of the list.

I agree with you. Nothing beats cone area/total motor power. I was simply saying that if I were to get 2 12's, it'd probably be two BTL's which need about 2k each so that's why i'd need more power .

As a VERY general rule, going from a 10 to a 12 or a 12 to a 15 will result in a roughly 3db increase assuming everything else equal. Doubling the power to your woofer would also give a 3db increase. And lastly, doubling the number of woofers used results in a 6db increase. To the human ear, a 6db increase is roughly "twice" as loud. Again, this is all very rough estimates and there are surely many exceptions, but this is a general idea of what to expect.

 

[ryan s]

here's a fun thought (and rationale behind my latest build)...

300 watts, different amps but same power at 4 ohms.

went from a:
10" with 84dB sensitivity, 314 sq cm Sd, .7 cu ft box

to a:
15" with 90dB sensitivity, 825 sq cm Sd, 14 cu ft box

now that's the kind of math i like to hear (and feel ) in my car