aftermarket upper control bar help

jdlc24

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
New York
Hello,

First starting with introducing myself to the forum. I purchased a 98 accord DX MT black with nothing in it but power windows and power locks (no radio). Cruise control and Intake resonator removed. The car has some chips in the paint (needs a new paint job), but has a new engine on it (stock f23). I decided to buy the car because my dad had the same car in 02, when he bought it brand new. All the enthusiasm and amount of possible mods I read on this forum before buying just did the trick to convince me.

Now that I introduced myself I want to mentions my mods so far regarding my drivetrain.

  • I started with the Legend caliper upgrade and the 94 prelude 13" rotors.
  • Replaced the brake master cylinder and pump.
  • My rear Drums were bad. I replaced them with the EX rear 4 lug disk brakes.
  • Adjustable toe and camber control bar. (the car had a 2 degree offset and couldnt stand the look of it)
  • Adjustable rear upper control arm
  • Installed Eibach springs 1.5" with stock struts. (planning to upgrade)
  • New OEM Sway bar links.

Here comes my issue. Instead of purchasing adjustable ball joints for the front upper control arm, I decided to buy a new one I found on Ebay.
IMAG0052-1.jpg

Now I have a clearance issue.
IMAG00555.jpg

With the OEM part it would just hit the top of the pillar (which ive seen the mod here before). With this aftermarket part, it hits the chassis that holds the pillars. It needs approximately 1/4 of an inch of clearance to get to the top and have enough clearance for my suspension. There is a thread where people modded the top, but did anyone had to cut the part of the chassis for this?
 

F23A1AT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Posts
2,328
Reaction score
16
Location
Gainesville, FL
Personally, I wouldn't modify the chassis for anything, especially in that area of the car. That looks like an off brand UCA so it doesn't surprise me that it doesn't fit. Your best bet would be to get a better made adjustable UCA that will clear the chassis.
 

jdlc24

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
New York
My friend told me about using the stock ones with adjustable ball joints, but I don't know if It will be enough for me to align. I think you're right about the chassis.
 

SykVSyx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Posts
13,938
Reaction score
30
Location
Tee Dot Ohh
Unless you car talks in the third person, you really didn't introduce yourself.

More importantly, welcome to the site.

Enjoy.

Glad you got the issue fixed.

Happy Modding.
 

001Stunna

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Posts
3,203
Reaction score
81
Location
Toronto, ON CANADA
Get rid of that blue crap and stick with an OEM UCA.
The camber in the front is never bad enough unless you're slammed to the tittts.
If you worry about hitting the upper shock tower then do what many have done and get some one to do some fabrication for you. Cut, weld, paint.
 
Back
Top