Flashing check engine light

[ejreams]

firewall
123
456
grille/radiator

This is the cylinder order, correct?
if so, there is seemingly no stutter if I pull power on the coil pack over cylinder 2, leading me to believe its dead and gone.

 

[001Stunna]

firewall
123
456
grille/radiator

This is the cylinder order, correct?
if so, there is seemingly no stutter if I pull power on the coil pack over cylinder 2, leading me to believe its dead and gone.

rear of vehicle
1|2|3
4|5|6
front of vehicle

the actual order in which they fire is 1-4-2-5-3-6

When doing a power balance test (pulling each plug connector of the coilpack and noting for rpm/engine tone difference) you should hear the same engine/rpm tone when pulling each one. If one plug makes no difference or causes an abonrmal noise compared to the others, you've found your issue. You need to further test on that cylinder. Personally I'd say to switch the coilpacks with a different cylinder and re-test...if the problem moves over with the coil pack then it is the coilpack at fault. If the problem does not move over with the coilpack then you might have an issue with signal to that coilpack, sparkplug, cylinder pressure.

 

[ejreams]

Okay, there is no difference when I pull the clip on 2.
I'm going to hope that its the coil pack, however I will certainly try switching it with a current working on first. If not I will pull the spark plug to check the gap, I really hope its one of those two things.

When switching them, do I need to reset the ECU?

 

[001Stunna]

Okay, there is no difference when I pull the clip on 2.
I'm going to hope that its the coil pack, however I will certainly try switching it with a current working on first. If not I will pull the spark plug to check the gap, I really hope its one of those two things.

When switching them, do I need to reset the ECU?

Just to switch the coilpacks? No
The miniscule effect of that cylinders oxygen passing by the o2 unused altering your fuel trims should be nothing, and it will go back to where it needs to be once you fix the issue.

If it is, id say its the coilpack...as no matter how big the gap on a plug it will still fire but might just not cause a complete efficient burn. DO NOT pull your plugs on a hot engine! i usually either do it cold or let it cool to the touch first.

 

[ejreams]

Is there a reason not to other than its hot as hell?

 

[001Stunna]

Is there a reason not to other than its hot as hell?

Risk of fudging up the aluminum threads. Plugs being seized/locked in once the engine cools and contracts on the plugs.

Personally i've always done them on a full cold engine, or let the car sit for 1hour-1hour30mins prior to doing them.
Use a tinyyy dap of anti seize on plug threads too.

 

[ejreams]

I see..
Thanks for the heads up, wasn't really aware of that.

 

[001Stunna]

I see..
Thanks for the heads up, wasn't really aware of that.

Way i see it, better safe than sorry =P

 

[ejreams]

Well, fixed the light, replaced the 2nd coil pack and the car is no longer dying.

However, it's still idling a little rough.
I was thinking maybe when I put my cai on, I pulled that line that is solid metal and replaced it with a shorter tube. Maybe I made an air pocket in the coolant?

 

[RichBinAZ]

Still gurgling? How is the power steering fluid level?