Sketch o5
Señor Greengo
a 1" tall bump stop is more than half of the clearance i have between uca and strut tower 
DIY:Suspension bump stop for Control arm slap
- Thread starter 1NonlyAccord
- Start date
4door accord02
Well-Known Member
I'm going to try the bumpstops out first.. Before I go ahead and go ahead and cut the strut towers ..... I just wanted to know some of your reviews with regards to how good they work?
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
I bought thick ones.need skinner ones.My arms sat on the bushing.Had no noise at all,but ride suffered.
Ended up taking off the camber kit and putting oem control arms back in,so took out the bump stops also.
Ended up taking off the camber kit and putting oem control arms back in,so took out the bump stops also.
4door accord02
Well-Known Member
What do you mean as in ride suffered? Mess up your ride quality?
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
yeah it was bouncy unless you adjust stiffness on coils. But Im running D2 racing coils and have everything on hardest setting so I dont bottom out my 20x10.5" rims.
cyen008
Well-Known Member
just go with cutting..
j-powers are this style?
Not a fan of those, they actually make camber worse. By lifting the UCA relative to the LCA, it's further into it's 'swing'. So as it goes up a little, it goes 'in' more. When the car is sitting you can make the camber nice, but when your driving your camber changes way more because the arms are at all the wrong angles relative to each other.
I put some on my SCCA SM Civic like 5 years ago, took them back off like 15 minutes later. Handled like ****! I thought it would be nice to be able to add more caster, as it turned out in corners I could only use like 1/4 of the tire because of the nasty camber curves I got. Not to mention the severe reduction in travel.
I don't remember the actual numbers, but it was around double the camber change. Originally I got about 1* camber per 1" of travel (- camber in bump, + in droop). With those joints it was like 3* negative camber per inch of bump and 2* positive camber per inch of droop.
Not trying to upset anyone here, some reputable companies sell that style of joint. ALL OF THEM SUCK BALLS. I didn't run them long enough to wear tires, but I bet it would have been as bad or worse than running no camber kit.
Not a fan of those, they actually make camber worse. By lifting the UCA relative to the LCA, it's further into it's 'swing'. So as it goes up a little, it goes 'in' more. When the car is sitting you can make the camber nice, but when your driving your camber changes way more because the arms are at all the wrong angles relative to each other.
I put some on my SCCA SM Civic like 5 years ago, took them back off like 15 minutes later. Handled like ****! I thought it would be nice to be able to add more caster, as it turned out in corners I could only use like 1/4 of the tire because of the nasty camber curves I got. Not to mention the severe reduction in travel.
I don't remember the actual numbers, but it was around double the camber change. Originally I got about 1* camber per 1" of travel (- camber in bump, + in droop). With those joints it was like 3* negative camber per inch of bump and 2* positive camber per inch of droop.
Not trying to upset anyone here, some reputable companies sell that style of joint. ALL OF THEM SUCK BALLS. I didn't run them long enough to wear tires, but I bet it would have been as bad or worse than running no camber kit.
