Will my transmission break down soon?

Caliaccord02

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Don't really hear any grinding from the video. Mine used to do this and it made the car jerk forward a bit when going from park to reverse. Thats what it looks like is happening to you. I believe it was the motor mounts that needed to be changed. Is the transmission doing anything unusual when driving that makes you think its going to break down soon or is it just this sound?
 

ThatDesiKid

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Before you turn the key start the car, turn the key to position II (all of the cluster lights turn on, move the gear selector to N and then start the car. See if it makes that noise when you shift from N to R.

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Varnell

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Also, use your e-brake when you park, then shift into Park. Parking on your transmission puts a lot of unnecessary stress on it.
 

yargd

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@Caliaccord02
There is one time I gently tap on the gas at 0mph to ~6mph and it jerked a little and it goes on.

@ThatDesiKid
I usually Brake > Shift from Parking to Neutral, wait 5 sec and shift to Reverse. The jerk is half as you see in the video above.

@Varnell
When I park, I usually press on the brake > Shift to Parking > Pull my E Brake. Is your method better than mine?
 
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ThatDesiKid

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I read Varnell's method in an older thread a long time ago. Here's how it goes.

Starting car: Get in car > turn key to II > move gear selector to neutral > start car > put it in gear

Turning off car: stop car > move gear from drive to neutral, > with foot still on brake lift the handbrake > turn off car > move gear from neutral to park.

As for that jerk you felt at 6mph, you need the car to come to a complete stop, wait a second or two then apply gas. It happens to my car if I get on the gas too quickly after I put it in drive.

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Connie

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Whenever mine starts jerking or bumping it always ends up being a motor mount on the way out.

If it happens when going forwards, it's the front mount.

If it happens when going backwards, it's the rear mount.

When I have good front and rear hydraulic mounts, I can beat the hell out of it and it never thuds or clunks.

Also, when the front mount goes bad, it usually allows the motor to move around enough to break the secondary mount on the bottom on the transmission side.

If you but the car in drive and reverve with the brakes on and press the gas a bit and the engine looks like it is trying to escape, you need mounts. It will be pretty obvious once you see the drivetrain shift.

I have marks on the bottom of my hood from when my front mount went the first time. It will also break your flexpipe if you drive with a busted mount for long enough.
 

Connie

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So I need to go change the mount before thing get worse?


You should check your mounts, using the method I explained in my previous posts before you do anything to see if that's the problem. It's easy and free; very easy if you have 2 people.

Car in drive, emergency and foot brake on, pump gas gently (don't let car move)...does motor move? Yes=probably bad front hydraulic mount.

Repeat process in reverse to check rear mount.

If the engine tries to leap out of the car, you have a bad mount.

Also check the lower transmission mount (non-hydraulic) to see if the rubber has separated from the metal backing or is cracked/torn. This one tends to dry out. Use a prybar against the subframe and GENTLY pry against the tranny housing to see if the mount is broken.

Also make sure you have the right transmission fluid in there. You need the honda DW-1 synthetic stuff. From the dealer. No generic stuff....the extra 30 bucks to do the job properly is worth it.

Your transmission might be starting to go and giving hard shifts, but you should check the mounts first because they are much easier to replace and might be your problem.

Just eliminate the easy stuff first...
 
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