Finished h22 swap, need ecu advice

Matt Taylor

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I recently swapped to an obd1 h22a and it looks as if the ecu that I received with the motor is bad. I am getting code 41, have tried replacing o2 sensors, have verified that wiring is fine and it wasn't showing any cel codes before the swap. I have a p13 ecu from an automatic h22a that I am considering trying to use to test and see if the code shows up using that ecu. Is this a big deal if I don't drive it, but just start it to see if it still throws a cel 41 on a known good ecu, but for an automatic transmission? The car is manual transmission and I want to make sure that I am not going to cause other problems by plugging in the automatic ecu.
 

Matt Taylor

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I got a hakko soldering iron and am going to convert the ecu to manual. It turns out that isn't very complicated, remove 2 resistors replace one with a jumper wire. I will post the outcome of what I try, here are some pics of the project:

This is a finished view

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I converted the h22a throttle body to have the cruise control throttle connection
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An adapter bracket was necessary for the linkage to the throttle body, so I cut one with my plasma cnc

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I installed the Eibach pro plus kit20181108_132502.jpg

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Matt Taylor

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A picture of the finished project 20181222_161455.jpg

This is a jdm h22a upper header to USDM f23a1 j-pipe adapter that I didn't end up using
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This is the throttle linkage adapter bracket installed
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Motor mount, arm adapter, power steering connection using a mig weld and a compression fitting.
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Transmission mount
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Matt Taylor

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This is a 3d printed centering ring for the intake to be centered within the hole on the body, preventing rattling and wear on the intake tube, it is held in place with rtv, each half zip ties together to make a quick and easy solution
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Front motor mount and usdm h22a upper header to usdm f23a1 j-pipe adapter that I ended up using
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I also am using the truhart adjustable upper control arms front and rear
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Matt Taylor

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I converted the JDM 37820-P13-900 automatic ecu to manual by removing RP11 and RP12 resistors and soldering a jumper at RP12.20181223_003724.jpg 20181223_003900.jpg

I decided to put tape over the wire to isolate it from any other solder joints on the board
20181223_023525.jpg Lastly, I turned the ecu over and verified continuity between both RP12 solder joints with a multimeter
 
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Matt Taylor

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I tested the converted p13 ecu and it worked, the car started up fine and ran fine! No more code 41 being displayed! The ecu that came with my motor and transmission was bad.
 

capsidx

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Nice work. I went with a chipped p28 for my swap and just had them flash a basemap. These ecu s are all 20+ years old so it’s nice to go the way I did. Reason being is they replace the capacitors and touch up the solder joints. This gives me a little piece of mind. Also being obd1 allows me to have a plethora of options for tuning. You could always get a stand-alone system so there goes that argument lol.

Anyways nice job on the swap. Everything looks oem which is always a plus in my opinion.
 

Matt Taylor

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Thanks, my mig weld to compression power steering fitting didn't end up holding together under the pressure, so I am now using a custom high pressure hose that a company named hydraquip fabricated for me, I will show pics when I get back out there. The problem now is that my radiator cooling fan isn't turning on. So far I've tried replacing the thermostat and fan switch but the fan still won't turn on when the car warms up. I haven't driven it yet to see if it overheats, so maybe the temp isn't getting high enough to get the fan to turn on while the car is sitting parked and running.

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I swapped in a JDM H22A which is obd1. The car wiring on the ecu side and the motor side has been converted to obd1, which uses a resistor box for the injectors and several other wiring changes for the connectors for the sensors. I generated some wiring conversion tables to help with the install that I will post up. I also took a picture of every sensor and connector on the JDM H22A when I was prepping it for install and will find and post those pictures, also. The above picture is how I will tune mine, a v-afc2 and wideband work well to deliver power. This is a custom bracket I 3d printed and will install between the 2 pods on a glowshift 2 pod gauge bezel. I would probably chip a p28 if I was going to turbo the h22, but I like to tune with a v-afc 2 and a wideband. I only adjust for fuel in open loop to get as close to 14.7 across the powerband, don't touch vtec engagement, and that is a great setting for my cb7. I will probably run the cg the same way as I like the way the cb7 drives but I also want the interior and coupe look of the cg, they both have great characteristics as the cb7 is a sedan.

The things I am working on to completely finish the project are vafc2 install, gauge bezel, wideband and coolant temp gauges, OBX short shift adapter, and walbro 255 lph fuel pump.
 
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Matt Taylor

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I ran into a problem when I was using the converted (auto to manual) p13 ecu. It ran the car, threw cels appropriately if something was wrong, but then when I go to hit vtec, I couldn't because the ecu had a rev limiter at 5000, right when I want to enjoy some vtec action. So I am now going with a p28 ecu for a manual transmission and it now hits vtec and revs as high as it should. I installed the walbro 255 lph fp and the car is fast! I haven't tuned it in yet, but am currently welding another o2 bung for my apsx wideband and will put the vafc2 on along with the prosport jdm coolant temp gauge. I have an aluminum egr delete plate on the way and will install a plug in place of the knock sensor location. I also have a couple of butterfly delete plates that I plan to stack up in between the upper and lower IM.

I have also designed a bunch of vtec lights of various design and application. They are 3d printed. Some fit into a gauge pod, some have 2 lights and a relay to signify vtec on and off and I have some simple ones that include one light that lights up when vtec turns on. Other designs are intended to sit in the little cubby area under the stereo on a 6th gen. They are very customizable according to the color of light and also the color of cover lens, which enables each one to light up uniquely according to the intended look. They are made of pla and are clear coated.

This one has standard single lenses and lights up green on the left when vtec is off and red on the right when vtec is on. This one is very bright!
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Various other sizes and designs. All of these incorporate a 2 bulb green off/red on light colors. The one on the left is designed for a gauge pod and the ones on the right are designed to go in the cubby under the stereo.
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2 bulb red/green gauge pod design with remote relay.
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This is a design that incorporates a lens and a custom lens plate. It lights up on the left when vtec is off and red on the right when vtec is on.
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Matt Taylor

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And lastly, a 2 bulb configuration in ice blue off/ magenta on with a lime green lens housed in an autometer pod for the cg.
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I did the additional o2 sensor bung welding today.
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