JFISHTHECREATOR 2002 CG2 EX-L V6

JFISHTHECREATOR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Posts
69
Reaction score
0
Location
Reynoldsburg, Ohio
The CG2 V6 Coupe

This is the new 6th gen I bought. I rebuilt the trans and did all kinds of maintenance on it to get it up to par. I also lowered it, and made a custom single exit exhaust.

List of Maintenance done
  • New Kumho Ectsa 4X tires - Lasted 30k Miles, 45k mile warranty
  • New TOYO Extensa A/S tires - 65k mile warranty, 2k Miles on them so far
  • Timing Belt, Water Pump, Tensioner, Idler
  • NGK V-Power Spark Plugs
  • Valve Cover Gaskets
  • Painted Valve Cover's Purple
  • PCV Valve
  • Cabin Air filter (X2)
  • Front/Rear pads and rotors (cheapo DURAGO/MONRO from rockauto)
  • Front/Rear pads and rotors (Advance Auto Rotors/Centric StopTech Sport Pads)
  • Front Lower Ball Joints (2X)
  • Front Upper Control Arms (3X)
  • All Engine/Trans Mounts (Side Mount 2X)
  • Primary and Secondary Oxygen Sensors
  • Rebuilt Power Steering Pump
  • High Pressure Power Steering Line
  • Transmission Fluid Flush (3x 3Quart each time) (1 Time before rebuild, 1 Time after rebuild)
  • Engine Oil Pan
  • VTEC Solenoid Gaskets
  • Kemso 340LPH Fuel Pump
  • Idle Air Control Valve
  • Thermostat
  • Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • Clean Intake Manifold and Throttle Body
  • Re-Finished Headlights
  • 2.5 Inch Exhaust Custom Bent by Me to Ebay Chrome Muffler
  • Driver Seat Rear Entry Cable
  • Purple VTEC Lights ran into Side View Mirrors
  • 03-07 Accord 4CYL Rims
  • Left Front ABS Sensor
  • Lowered on LoTek Springs with TruHart Struts



  • Rebuild Transmission
  • Raybestos Frictions/Steels
  • TransLab .388 Shift Correction Kit
  • Filter
  • Clean/Reuse Solenoids/Switches
  • Castrol TransMax Import Multi-Vehicle
  • Hayden 514 Oil Cooler (Transmission Cooler, Deleted Factory Cooler)



  • JVC KW-X830BTS Double Din Radio
  • Cerwin Vega XED Door Speakers
  • Cerwin Vega HED Decklid Speakers


I am SURE I am missing a few things. But here it is.






2018_08_09_img_7732-jpg.7330
2018_08_09_img_7734-jpg.7331
2018_08_09_img_7737-jpg.7333
2018_08_09_img_7738-jpg.7334
2018_08_16_img_7977-jpg.7335
 

cg4ever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2018
Posts
177
Reaction score
20
Location
Europe
Very good. Do you plan to make some body repair ? Also any set of rims on your buy list ?

How is your car riding with this suspension setup ? Are you happy ?
 

trident

Active Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Posts
34
Reaction score
0
Location
GA
This really sounds an exciting project. How's the progress so far?
 

JFISHTHECREATOR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Posts
69
Reaction score
0
Location
Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Very good. Do you plan to make some body repair ? Also any set of rims on your buy list ?

How is your car riding with this suspension setup ? Are you happy ?
Eventually I plan to have the rust taken care of. Not in the cards right now. As for rims, I am digging the 7th gen wheels I have on it now. As for the suspension, it is a bit low for my taste, I ended up putting in twist-in coil spring spacers to raise it a little. However the ride quality is pretty decent. If I were to do it over I would pony up for the Eibach sportlines.
 

JFISHTHECREATOR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Posts
69
Reaction score
0
Location
Reynoldsburg, Ohio
UPDATE: I have done the timing belt and water pump again, due to the water pump prematurely failing (DAYCO BRAND) I did everything with a gates kit this time. Oil changes every 3-5K miles. Trans fluid every 15K.

This last time I changed the trans fluid, everything looked great and pretty much like new fluid which is usual. However on the test drive following, the transmission started to act up. It drives fine for about 5 miles and its warmed up, then it will hard shift down to second gear while I am going 60 and in overdrive. Then it will shift back and forth to 4th and 2nd, until i put it into neutral or just put it into second. It throws CEL TCS and D4 Light with code P1751. I haven't had much luck diagnosing so far, and truthfully it is a bit depressing to have it act up after performing regular maintenance and never having issues with it to date. I have removed both shift solenoids under the starter and ohm tested and 12V tested, as well as the Dual linear solenoids. I have to ohm test the dual linear solenoids again because I believe I had the wrong resistance range given to me. The lower shift solenoids are fine. I have yet to pull the TCC solenoid/shift solenoid A to test it. It is just funny to me that I have performed regular maintenance and haven't had any issues and yet when I change the fluid, all of a sudden issues arise. Like I said all the fluid has always stayed clean and not burnt. I did find a wire on the TPS plug to be broken open and corroding, so I spliced a new connector in and a new TPS. I wasn't able to successfully get .45V at closed throttle, but I was able to obtain 4.5V on the dot at wide open. Closed throttle is about .63V which is way off, so I will have to replace the new DORMAN sensor again... In addition to finding a broken open wire on the TPS, I found a broken SUPER corroded wire to one of the pressure switches on the transmission, which i also replaced. I even took off each transmission harness plug and cleaned each. To no avail. I am hoping I don't have to pull the trans and open it up. It would definitely help if I had a capable Diagnostic tool. But here we are lmao. When I figure out what is causing the problem I will update this. Later.
 

JFISHTHECREATOR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Posts
69
Reaction score
0
Location
Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Update: I have ordered a transmission pressure test kit. However, I am leaning towards the TCC/shift solenoid A being bad, and or the torque converter itself has failed. I will update this after I have successfully done the pressure test and narrowed down further. I would hope that I wouldn't have to open the transmission up after only 60K miles. I am really hoping for it to be the torque converter failing. If I have to open the transmission , I will definitely be drilling the valve body plates out to "Race Spec" instead of the "Regular rebuild Spec".
 
Back
Top