BlkCurrantKord
Super Moderator
Accelerator pedal sensor assy - I can try and dig through the wiring diagrams here at work in my spare time if you're interested
J32A2 + 6MT swap in my '01 F23/H23 5MT chassis
- Thread starter Bense
- Start date
Accelerator pedal sensor assy - I can try and dig through the wiring diagrams here at work in my spare time if you're interested
Thank you for offering. After I saw your response yesterday, I thought about this more when I was (trying) to go to sleep and when I was getting ready this morning (/r/shower thoughts ? Lol) and when I was driving on I-385 this morning to my shop -- I felt the accel pedal physically move while I had cruise control on. I don't know why this didn't register with me before when I felt the pedal move.
There is no physical cable that goes to the throttle body and there's no electrical wiring on the accel pedal. My best friend, Geoff is RX7 crazy. I watched him grab an RX8 accel pedal assembly from the junkyard one day, and when we got back to his shop, he pulled the accel pedal assembly off his RX7 FD and he compared it to the RX8 one. He wound up only having to do minor work to get it working, but I recall that the pedal assembly had an electrical wire plug on it, as opposed to a slot for the throttle cable. He did this mod so that he could use some cheap, readily available GM throttle body that had some very large bore, 100mm or something. I forget.
Anyway, to convert 6g Accord to DBW by using this 7g Accord module. Plus it seems that it would be even less work than what Geoff had to do.
The next obstacle to address would be whether or not it's feasible to get a 6g Accord instrument cluster working with 7g Accord / 3g TL ECU signaling.
BlkCurrantKord
Super Moderator
It seems like a very redundant system, cable from pedal to that sensor, electrical signal from that to a control module and relay on the pass side kick panel area.
This is kind of a segue to a build that I've spent a lot of time thinking about, but I guess I've never actually posted anything about it.
If you've followed my J-series / FK8 transmission thread (https://honda-tech.com/forums/trans...eries-trans-also-applicable-k-series-3346496/) you'll see in the first paragraph that I managed to figure out a way to bolt up a J-series manual transmission to a K-series engine (K20A2, K24A2, etc) using an OEM Honda clutch housing in a Frankenstein combination. Literally everything bolts right up and there's no cutting, grinding or drilling necessary.
If I were to do this, I could use the CL-S 6MT lower transmission mounts to mount the transmission housing to the subframe. This then would provide a common datum for the axles, as the left side axle would simply be a CL-S 6MT left axle.
Then, take a CL-S halfshaft, grind off the mounting plate that bolts to the back of the J block and weld it onto a 1/4" steel plate that I've drilled holes into and shaped with my same aforementioned $20 angle grinder. Then use a CL-S 6MT right side axle.
After this is done, it's feasible that one could make a bracket that fastens to the 6g Accord right side frame rail that allows the K-series engine to be mounted in place.
Brackets would need to be made for the front and rear engine / subframe mounts. The only unknown would be how much frame rail clearance there would be between the K-series timing chain and the right side frame rail.
If there is in fact enough room, then it would be pretty straight forward to do something like a turbo K24 mounted to one of my Frankenstein J / FK8 transmissions.
Do this with something like an Accord LX chassis (no moonroof), and get some stronger front brakes (RL calipers, etc) and with some decent suspension. You'd have an FK8 killer, with superior, double wishbone suspension.
If you've followed my J-series / FK8 transmission thread (https://honda-tech.com/forums/trans...eries-trans-also-applicable-k-series-3346496/) you'll see in the first paragraph that I managed to figure out a way to bolt up a J-series manual transmission to a K-series engine (K20A2, K24A2, etc) using an OEM Honda clutch housing in a Frankenstein combination. Literally everything bolts right up and there's no cutting, grinding or drilling necessary.
If I were to do this, I could use the CL-S 6MT lower transmission mounts to mount the transmission housing to the subframe. This then would provide a common datum for the axles, as the left side axle would simply be a CL-S 6MT left axle.
Then, take a CL-S halfshaft, grind off the mounting plate that bolts to the back of the J block and weld it onto a 1/4" steel plate that I've drilled holes into and shaped with my same aforementioned $20 angle grinder. Then use a CL-S 6MT right side axle.
After this is done, it's feasible that one could make a bracket that fastens to the 6g Accord right side frame rail that allows the K-series engine to be mounted in place.
Brackets would need to be made for the front and rear engine / subframe mounts. The only unknown would be how much frame rail clearance there would be between the K-series timing chain and the right side frame rail.
If there is in fact enough room, then it would be pretty straight forward to do something like a turbo K24 mounted to one of my Frankenstein J / FK8 transmissions.
Do this with something like an Accord LX chassis (no moonroof), and get some stronger front brakes (RL calipers, etc) and with some decent suspension. You'd have an FK8 killer, with superior, double wishbone suspension.
interesting hybrid idea. k motor with a j trans. is that because the j trans is built better? are you talking about a dohc high rpm build? I've never tried a K because of the backward facing manifolds compared to H. Although the Bisi wagovan intrigued me how he mounted single turbo direct to the stock k24 head.
The physical size of the shafts in the J / FK8 transmission are larger than the normal K transmission. You can hold them in your hand and it's a complete no brainer.
However, none of that is going to matter unless you have gearing that pairs well with the higher revving K-series engine. -- However, my Frankenstein gearing fixes ALL of that.
One of the options makes the gearing almost identical to the 1997-2006 NSX 6MT gearing.
I used to have to go into great details explaining why it was better. However, that's no longer necessary because all we have to do is look at the FK8 setup, as it uses a very similar setup to the setup that I saw was possible, using pre-existing Honda parts.
Cool. Do you do any f & h trans builds? I have an 93 m2b4 lsd trans that I'd like to run a taller 5th gear. I took it out because my drive to work is 75mph for 20 miles and I can get way better mileage with the stock 01 f23 trans. I have an old atts m2u4 or y4? from an sh that i kept around for spare parts too. Anyways the tune I had was based on the m2b4 and it obviously doesn't have lsd in the accord trans. what i'd considered was replacing the 5th gear set on the lsd trans, i just didn' know what would fit.
I've done those. The H23A swap I had in my 6g had a franken geared setup.
If you want a longer 5th, you are much better off switching over to a 4.06 final drive in the prelude transmission than you are switching to a taller, Accord 5th.
Having a large gap between 4th > 5th sucks.
The absolute best setup that you can use for F/H is the M2F4 gearing. It's got that 0.871 fifth that everyone hates. Use that with an Accord final.
The T2W4 / U2Q7 are atrocious. Sure, they've got LSD and a good 1st -> 2nd shift, but everything else is gappy. Except for the U2Q7 4th -> 5th, but that ends up being the same as M2F4.
Here's my thread about those transmissions
https://honda-tech.com/forums/trans...s-interchange-b-series-awd-cr-v-sbxm-3345057/
If you want a longer 5th, you are much better off switching over to a 4.06 final drive in the prelude transmission than you are switching to a taller, Accord 5th.
Having a large gap between 4th > 5th sucks.
The absolute best setup that you can use for F/H is the M2F4 gearing. It's got that 0.871 fifth that everyone hates. Use that with an Accord final.
The T2W4 / U2Q7 are atrocious. Sure, they've got LSD and a good 1st -> 2nd shift, but everything else is gappy. Except for the U2Q7 4th -> 5th, but that ends up being the same as M2F4.
Here's my thread about those transmissions
https://honda-tech.com/forums/trans...s-interchange-b-series-awd-cr-v-sbxm-3345057/
