Blowing white smoke

slowrider87

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Oh man.... I'm scared to see how this turns out. Are you 4cyl? if so...

Steps 1-26 Courtesy of Alldatadiy.com
Steps 27-32 Courtesy of common sense.
Cylinder Head Removal
Engine removal is not required for this procedure.

NOTE:
Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces. To avoid damage, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion.
To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F (38°C) before loosening the retaining bolts. Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid Disconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses, or interfere with other parts.
1: Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
2: Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
3: Drain the engine coolant.
4: Remove the intake air duct.
5: Remove the throttle cable (A) and cruise control cable (B) by loosening the locknuts (C), then slipping the cable ends out of the accelerator linkage. Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.
6:Remove the breather hose (A) and Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose (B).
7: Relieve fuel pressure.
8: Remove the fuel feed hose (A) and fuel return hose (B
9: Remove the brake booster vacuum hose (A) and vacuum hoses
10: Remove the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister hose (A), vacuum hose (B) and P/S hose clamp
11: Remove the three water bypass hoses
12: Remove the mounting bolts (A), then remove the Power Steering (P/S) pump belt (B) and pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses
13: Remove the alternator belt.
- Loosen the alternator mounting bolt (A).
- Loosen the alternator locknut (B).
- Loosen the adjusting bolt (C).
- Remove the alternator belt (D).
14:Disconnect the alternator wire harness.
- Pull up the lock (A), then release the wire harness tie (B).
- Pull back the boot and remove the 6 mm nut (c).
- Disconnect the connector (D) from the alternator.
15: Remove the upper radiator hose (A), lower radiator hose (B) and heater hose (C).
16: Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the cylinder head and the intake manifold.
-Four injector connectors
-Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector
-Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector
-Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector
-Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector
-Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (primary HO2S) connector (F23A1, F23A5 engine)
-Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) sensor connector (F23A4 engine)
-Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector
-Radiator fan switch connector Coolant temperature gauge sending unit connector ('98-00 models)
-Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve connector CKP/TDC sensor connector
-VTEC solenoid valve connector (F23A1/F23A4 engines)
-VTEC oil pressure switch connector (F23A1/ F23A4 engines)
17: Remove the spark plug caps and distributor from the cylinder head.
18: Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan.
19: Remove the stop (A) and ground cable (B), then remove the upper bracket
20: Remove the cylinder head cover.
21: Remove the balancer belt and timing belt.
22: Remove the camshaft pulley (A) and back cover
23: Remove the exhaust manifold cover (A), then remove the exhaust manifold
24: Remove the intake manifold.
25: Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
Cylheadsequence.gif

***Torque Head bolts to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.) when reassembling***
26: Remove the cylinder head.
***********************
27: Remove old head gasket
28: Scrape/clean the surface of the block and cylinder head to remove any dirt or other deposits. BE CAREFUL TO NOT LEAVE ANY DEBRIS! Vacuum out the cylinders if any falls into them.
29: Install new headgasket.

30: Reassemble engine in reverse order of disassembly.
31: Test drive
32a: If all checks out fine... Pat yourself on the back, drink beer and watch TV.
32b: If all does not check out. Well somewhere along the line you screwed up and neither myself nor Alldata is not responsible for it.

If you have a Haynes manual use it to look up torque specifications during reassembly.

I can not post all the pictures that go with each step because alldata changes the links to them daily and they will not show up. for long enough to make the time it would take to post them worthwhile for either of us.

Carefully read and adhere to those instructions and you should be fine. If some of them do not make sense, Put down the wrench and do more research or take it to a shop.
 

nsjames

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Fuk ! So without a car now .. So where a good place to look for instructions. ? Start with my manual I guess ? You tube?


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before you go taking on a huge job, make sure it's actually burning coolant.

Pull the plugs and look for one that looks like it was steam cleaned.
Pull the valve cover and look for white residue/cracks in the head.

Was it low on oil? Is the crankcase overfull with oil now? Did you check the dipstick before you added oil?

and using the check engine light as your oil indicator is a pretty bad practice. You should check the dipstick everytime you stop for gas. By the time the check engine light comes on you're already doing damage.

If you are still unsure, take it someplace and have the cooling system put on a hydrocarbon sniffer. Believe me, you don't want to do a headgasket and not have that be the issue. it will be worth the $75 spent to have a proper diagnosis.
 

4door accord02

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Thanks .. Could it have been that i put Too much oil in?? Should I not be driving my car right under these conditions?


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nsjames

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Thanks .. Could it have been that i put Too much oil in?? Should I not be driving my car right under these conditions?


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yes, too much oil will make it smoke, and may possibly cause damage.

You should avoid driving it if possible.

The more you drive it the better the chance that you screw up something internal, and then have to have it rebuilt.

Check th oil level. If it's high, drain it. While you're draining it, check that it's not contaminated with water. If it looks like chocolate milk, you've got a headgasket or head issue for sure.

a better discussion of too much oil:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080919084218AADdI3x
 
Last edited:

4door accord02

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Drained out some oil and it was fine... The white exhaust smoke stopped coming out the exhaust also... I guess I learned from this


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