Car appears to want to shut off when I brake...

[BatMan]

The thing is it turns off on me while driving as well, all weekend I had no problems with the car, I took it out for a spin, short trips mind you, to Target, to Eagle Rock and it ran fine...until last night, it just randomly shut off while I was DRIVING...all of this baffles me...**** I'm so lost...I'll give that thread a read, I believe I've read most of it...

 

[RedRyder]

If the car is shutting off while you're driving, more than likely it's the ignition problem our cars are known for having as a defect. Which is why there is a recall for it. A couple guys in the thread link I posted were dealing with their cars shutting off, see if it is relative to your situation.

 

[BatMan]

Wellllllllll...today after work I turned on my car, left it on for a bit then drove off, when I was at a stop light a block from work, it shut off....wouldn't turn on...then after a while it started but shut back off instantly...then finally after 10 minutes it started...drove fine for a couple of miles, then while I was stopped again it shut off...then came back on right away...wtf...

I told my dad "I'm going to change the main relay" and he keeps second guessing me with "oh, how do you know if you haven't even tested it???" "oh just cuz of the heat, so what, maybe it might be another wire"...so I didn't even end up going to AutoZone to buy the main relay...is he right? And I want to test my alternator, I know you have to remove the battery cables when your car is on to check the alternator, is it both? Or just one?

 

[RedRyder]

Dude I don't know, but you need to try something - main relay or ignition recall or both. Your situation with driving is very dangerous, you need to try something before you get hurt. Have you read both threads? Is there one problem/fix that seems to sounds more viable than the other?

If you are having a hard time making a decision or cannot make a reasonable deduction as to what you need to do, take your car to the dealership and have them figure it out for you. You may have to pay a $50 diagnostic fee but at least you will know what you need to do. You are in danger driving your car in its current state.

 

[Drift]

Wellllllllll...today after work I turned on my car, left it on for a bit then drove off, when I was at a stop light a block from work, it shut off....wouldn't turn on...then after a while it started but shut back off instantly...then finally after 10 minutes it started...drove fine for a couple of miles, then while I was stopped again it shut off...then came back on right away...wtf...

I told my dad "I'm going to change the main relay" and he keeps second guessing me with "oh, how do you know if you haven't even tested it???" "oh just cuz of the heat, so what, maybe it might be another wire"...so I didn't even end up going to AutoZone to buy the main relay...is he right? And I want to test my alternator, I know you have to remove the battery cables when your car is on to check the alternator, is it both? Or just one?

First off, Autozone doesnt sell Honda main relays, and if they do, I wouldnt trust it. Autozone brand stuff isnt known for being the best quality. OEM or bust.

Second, to test the alternator, simply get a voltage meter, have the car running and put the meter on the battery posts. If the meter shows around 14.5v, the alternator is working.


When the car shuts off, does the gauge cluster still work?

 

[BatMan]

When the car shuts off, does the gauge cluster still work?

You mean that when I try turning it on the needle for the gas goes up? Then yes.

 

[Drift]

If all the lights and **** turn off, as in all electrical parts are turned off. .. Then its the ignition switch.

 

[BatMan]

If all the lights and **** turn off, as in all electrical parts are turned off. .. Then its the ignition switch.

No, radio stays on, everything electrical stays on.

I went to the dealer, arrived at 4:30...

"Oh, it's too late to have anyone check your car right now."

They close at 7...wtf...?__?

"Oh, I don't have a tech available..."

I saw three to four guys sitting around.

Wtf.

I told him I would bring it in on Friday at 3 P.M. then, when I get off work.

"Oh, that is too late."

Screw the dealer. He was charging me $100 just to have it looked at. Is that too much? Oh and he ruled out the ignition switch because he kept turning it off and on and saying there is good contact...at least he helped me a little.

I'm just going to a mechanic by where I work, he'll do the check with a code reader for $35, but they don't open on Mondays so I didn't go today.

Oh....and my car shut off 2 times after I got out of work, I drove no more than 2 miles...after that though it drove me to the dealership, autozone, to get gas, just fine...the guy at Autozone said it might be dirty fuel injectors...but then again everyone has suggested something to me. lol

 

[BatMan]

And one more thing, I checked if I had an ignition switch recall and my car was not recalled.

 

[Nismode]

If all the lights and **** turn off, as in all electrical parts are turned off. .. Then its the ignition switch.

This happened to mine. While driving (or while the engine is one I should say), the radio, lights, gauges all cut out for a split second and come back on.

Second, to test the alternator, simply get a voltage meter, have the car running and put the meter on the battery posts. If the meter shows around 14.5v, the alternator is working.

I've had the battery checked and I've had conflicting reports on it, guess I should check the alternator as well.

When the car shuts off, does the gauge cluster still work?

It comes back fine, but I can literally see the tach needle drop to zero then come back up. And I could feel the engine do the same, as if it died then came back. All under a second.

Point is, when I get the chance/money, I'm gonna get a new battery w/a grounding kit, and get check for the transmission/ignition recall.