Clutch problem

Discussion in 'Accord Tech' started by pete c, Oct 31, 2017.

  1. pete c

    pete c Member

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    '01 EX Coupe, 4 cylinder

    Bought this car earlier this year. Has been sitting in my yard about 6 months. Started. moved around a few times.

    The last time I started it, a few weeks ago, when I lifted off the clutch pedal, it stayed at the floor. Gave it a few pumps and it came up fine. I figured, either the master or slave is sticking. I should bleed it.

    A few days ago, I hop in to start it. I attempt to push the clutch pedal, but am met with a great deal of resistance. I had to push with most of my 250 lbs (really need to get on the bike more) to actuate the switch to allow me to start it. And after starting it, I can move it in and out of gear without touching the clutch.

    So either my slave is froze in the disengaged position, or my clutch is screwed.

    I assume that I should be able to crack the bleeder at the slave to at least get back clutch pedal movement.

    I am hoping it is just a frozen slave. Looks very easy to replace. The master looks like a PITA to change.
     
  2. pete c

    pete c Member

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    Anybody out there?
     
  3. Accordx

    Accordx Well-Known Member

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    I've got an auto :( not sure what the common problems are with the manual in this car tbh. Figured I'd bump this thread though
     
  4. Connie

    Connie Well-Known Member

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    I'm autotragic, too. I've had manual cars before, though; so I'll try and help.

    A hydraulic clutch system is usually fairly straightforward. The first thing I would do is crack the bleeder on the slave and see if the pedal moves then. If you can pass fluid through the system and the pedal moves with the bleeder open, you know that the pedal assembly is ok and that the master is probably ok if you can bleed the air out. The slave could be jammed with the orifice exposed if you can bleed, but at least you'll know if the rest of the system is ok. In my experience, it's usually the slave that fails.

    If you can't bleed it, you need to find out which part is seized. It's usually pretty easy to unbolt the slave cylinder, leaving the hydraulics together; I'd start there. The last one I did was on my RX7, and with the slave cylinder off on that car, if you can push the piston in and out by hand, it's probably ok. The slave usually has a boot that holds the pin over the end of the piston. If you take the pin and boot off, you can look into the slave cylinder's bore and inspect it. If there is ANY corrosion or it looks seized, or if it still won't even move when you have someone else press the clutch, it's NFG.

    With the slave still off, there should be a little play in the clutch fork assembly, and it should wiggle a little. If you pry on it, you should be able to feel the pressure plate spring compressing inside. If it's absolutely jammed and you can't even get it to move with a prybar, then something is seized inside the bellhousing and the transmission needs to come off to see what. Unless there is an inspection cover you can remove on 5spd 6gs to see inside.

    I'm sorry I can't be more help, but I've never been under the hood of a 5spd 6g.
     
  5. pete c

    pete c Member

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    Finally got around to digging into this thing. I have removed the slave and it is frozen solid. Pulled the boot off and nothing but ugly brown rust sludge. With it disconnected the pedal moves freely.

    AZ has it in stock, 45 bucks. I can get it for 20 bucks through Amazon, but some of the reviews have me thinking it is junk. Any recommendations on where to get one would be appreciated.
     
  6. Robert Troncoso

    Robert Troncoso Well-Known Member

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    I bought mine from autozone a year ago and its been working great since. I dont remember the price for it though. Its probably around the 50$ range.
     

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